Need my z32 ECU refurbed

[madkiwi]

My 1993 TT had an issue that culminated in the Air Conditioning system blowing out the pressure relief valve due to overheating. This happened because my ECU was not sending the "turn on" command to the electric fan. Happened on July 4th but thought it was an oil leak- castor oil looks like fresh engine oil.

The car was been in the shop for a week, they tested the coolant temp sensor, wiring and pin voltages and eventually got the fan to kick on only after banging the ecu. So it's an intermittent fault. Coincidentally the instrument cluster "Cruise Control" light is now working, it sometimes works, sometimes doesn't.

This has been something I have known was an issue for a couple years, on hot days my car is prone to overheating. Nobody suspected the ECU might be at fault.

So my question is- who can I send it to for refurbishing- or alternatively who sells a socketed A18-B05-MF1 ECU (I have a JWT socketed unit) with no chip?

Or last option, if I have to buy a board and then pay someone to install a socket who is a trustworthy seller of Z32 ECUs?

Thanks

[AZhitman]

Tough one... I'd suggest looking for either a takeout unit from a comparable car or go with a standalone.

BTW, something in the 1st paragraph has me confused: "castor oil looks like fresh engine oil." I assume that means you observed a possible leak, but from what?

[madkiwi]

Tough one... I'd suggest looking for either a takeout unit from a comparable car or go with a standalone.

BTW, something in the 1st paragraph has me confused: "castor oil looks like fresh engine oil." I assume that means you observed a possible leak, but from what?

Found a soldered OEM on Ebay, but that means buying an unknown and then paying someone to install a socket. I would be better off buying a refurb from one of the online places I found and getting that modified. My problem is can I count on those sellers?

My AC is R-12 which uses mineral oil sorry, not caster oil. When the pressure relief valve blew the oil that went everywhere was mineral oil, not PAG like that used for R-134a systems. It had the same color and feel as Mobil 1 10w-30.

[AZhitman]

Gotcha - that makes sense.

Can't help on the ECU question - That might be a "let us know" once you do it thing.