Need insight, stuck on a problem.

[PyR0NiAk]

It still looks like the exhaust cam's timing is off... It's like the gear is installed on the cam incorrectly..

[cypher02xd]

Its just the pictures. I'd prove it but I'm not pulling that stupid f***ing valve cover off again. I have to figure out wtf this problem is.

[PyR0NiAk]

So the key was at 12?

I highlighted in red where the keys should be.. You can see the intake one is in the correct spot, but the exhaust one isn't there..

[cypher02xd]

actually now that I'm thinking about it, and I don't know why this didn't click earlier, if I'm at part throttle in all the gears it'll pull decently but its like if I put my foot down it gets louder but it doesn't seem to pick up any better. The TPS sensor is adjusted perfectly by the computer and changes as it should when using the pedal.

[cypher02xd]

yes it was there, It was taken at a crappy a** angle. I apologize for that.

[bender24k]

I have always found that jumping timing is a sensor or wiring to a sensor problem. Start with setting the TPS, and then move it's wiring around while the engine is running and watch the timing to see if the jumping around is affected. Do the same thing for the knock sensor wiring, top engine harness wiring & grounds and finally the main ECU plug / wiring.

No matter what other problems you find, your statement about not being able to give it full throttle without breaking up sounds like a boost leak to me. Boost leaks can be very frustrating to find - I have seen guys use "testers" multiple times then give up and remove all the piping just to find a tear in a coupling.

Yank on the piping hard, check each and every coupling for splits, verify the pipe alignment is not leaving a gap that can burp air out, make sure your BOV is not leaking. If you are using a tester, make sure your piping holds 15 psi on your boost gauge for more than just a few seconds.

Good luck!

-Jeff

[cypher02xd]

Think I found it! I was watching the laptop while driving around with the consult up and I noticed something. Its not bucking all the time, its sort of random. and when it does happen, my tps voltage is dropping! which I assume is in turn throwing all my timing and fuel out of whack causing it to act stupid. this was happening WITHOUT any change in pedal position. So I guess maybe the tps has a short internally, I'm going to check my work tomorrow to see if I have one on the shelf but if not I'm going to order a new one in. I went for a drive with the TPS unplugged (which I know sets it at a base map and won't give me full power) but there was no bucking at all.

[PyR0NiAk]

Cypher, I know you said you found your problem, but I figured I'd add this. My car was basically doing the same thing but I hadn't messed with it TOO much until tonight. I finally got a friend to monitor my fuel pressure while I'd fluctuate the rpms. Turns out when it started bucking, my fuel pressure was dropping. Went to the back and checked the switched power source for the fuel pump. 7.1 VOLTS!! Barely over half of what it should be. (+12v) So we hardwired it tonight with the Deatschwerks kit. Now I'm just waiting on some permatex to cure on some other random things and we'll see if it fixed my problems.. Either way, I recommend you check your switched power source to fuel pump and see what it shows... It's the green wire on the chassis side of the connector at the pump..

[cypher02xd]

I actually went and checked it last night and found that I was roughly at the same voltage you were to the fuel pump! I thought... well that doesn't make any freaking sense. Went and checked some other things out and found that when running the coilpack voltage was jumping around, everywhere from 12v - 9v. Uhhh thats not right. Did some back tracing and found a wire that was causing the fuel pump voltage and coilpack voltage to fall off so I went and fixed that. All is good there. I also ordered my TPS sensor through my work, $60 brand new from standard my cost and it finally threw a code for the TPS!

I also decided to check things out and found that my CAS reference signal is a .726v instead of the .3-.6v the FSM says it should be. Do you think this is enough that I should be concerned about and go ahead and replace the sensor? My position signal was a 2.7v which falls between the 2.0-3.0 that it should be. I'm leaning towards another sensor just given the problems I've been having. I'm going to go out in a bit and rev it up and watch the reference to see if it falls out at all. I'm happy that I'm making progress.