need input on stupid rb problem.....

[rbosacco]

so... i have a 90 hatch 240, and a series 1 rb25, and of course some problems... like a 90 240 and a rb25. ok, just kidding. the short list of things i did to the swap before putting it in were. new gaskets, n1 oil and water pumps, cometic head gasket, arp studs, greddy timing belt, fmic, z32 maf, walbro and a 3 inch dp and exhaust.

ok so the after installation of the engine and suspension into the car the fun really began. first i unplugged the coil harness and cranked the engine over till the oil pressure light went out. after it did i plugged the harness back up and attempted to start the car. no start. then i realized the fuel pump never kicked on. after getting the fuel pump working i tried again. it didn't even turn over twice, it just immediately started as soon as the starter was bumped and sat there running smoothly, no smoke perfect idle. too good to be true right? well not really it actually ran perfect started immediately every time i started it and i was happy. i have a single cam in my car so needless to say at this point the tach does not work, so i put my afc 2 in and the car still ran great. then i noticed the afc did not pick up a tach signal from the tach wire so i put the tach wire on the number 1 coil wire and set the afc on 1 cyl and now the tach on the afc is dead on. but... now i notice a voltage problem, my alternator was dying. as the voltage would start to drop the car would start to break up while idling, then shut off. now i have replaced the alternator, the car makes 14.3 volts all the time, but the battery light is on, dim but on, about half lit id say, and now the engine just runs like it is stuck full rich or in some kind of open loop or something.the wideband reads 10.0 and i have to keep my foot at 10-14% throttle to get the car to run and it does nothing but blow black smoke, alot of black smoke. i ordered the stuff to wire a consult in but the guy i got it from said that that wasn't my only option, that i might be able to figure something out if i posted in here before the adaptor comes in. i'm at a loss. the manual doesn't have a you f'ed this up so fix this and your car will run section. if anyone can help i'd greatly appreciate it. thanks richie.

[Blown240sx]

Why not just spend the 100 bucks and buy an adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator... Or just turn the fuel input of the injectors down with the SAFC? At idle point of 800 rpms or lower if youd like tell the car a -% on the low throttle setting. I wouldnt go to much.This will fool the car and make it think its running super rich and will lean the injectors out some. But I would make sure to do this only in areas where the Wideband is showing RICH and yor getting a lot of black smoke. Cause its better to be a littl rich than lean.

[rbosacco]

well i do understand where you are going on the fpr thing but its not a hard problem or it would have been a problem from the beginning. like i was saying the car did run right at idle the wideband varied between 14-15 at idle which is about right. i had to take the afc and add 30% at idle so it would idle right, but now even if i pull 50% out of it it still stays at 10.0 on the wideband and fills the shop with black smoke. i'm starting to think the maf took a crap.

[rbosacco]

found problem out. props to slipnfall for his badass consult adaptor.

[wawazat8402]

what was the problem?

[rbosacco]

main problem. my car is not a honda so its broken. other than that, read above... the first post on this thread explains everything.