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Looneybomber
Posts: 9140
Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2004 3:05 pm
Car: 02 explorer sprt (grn)
10 G37S (white)

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http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/Sure it doesn't tell you how many db's each will eliminate, but it's better than nothing right?


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EW
Posts: 914
Joined: Fri May 20, 2005 2:29 pm
Car: 95 S14
98 Cobra
06 F150 supercrew
Location: DFW, TX

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I know many people are cheap and try to save a nickel by using roofing material (or some other alternative). I'll stick to using Dynamat Xtreme (and their many other products) over the wannbes. There is a reason that everyone compares their product to Dynamat. I have seen a couple of comparisons with Xtreme but most idiot companies try to compare their magic product with the very old school Dynamat Original. Compared to Dynamat Original, Xtreme is 4 times more effective, lighter, thinner, not asphalt based so it does not stink when installed, and it does not require a heat gun to install. So, if you're cheap, get the cheap stuff. If you want the most effective products, spend the extra money for the good stuff. A combination of products will yeild the best results because different materials block different frequency ranges. http://www.dynamat.com/technical_technical.html

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PoorManQ45
Posts: 16676
Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 5:13 pm

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Interesting. It seems that I'll have to start recommending Second Skin's Damplifier. Pro seems to be on par with Dynamat Xtreme, but alot cheaper

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Looneybomber
Posts: 9140
Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2004 3:05 pm
Car: 02 explorer sprt (grn)
10 G37S (white)

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eD just came out with a new deadener which is supposed to be the thickest buytl rubber mat produced right now. Might be worth checking out.

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PoorManQ45
Posts: 16676
Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 5:13 pm

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I saw that.

I'd personally go with three layers of the V1 instead.

It'll be a little thicker, and it's easier to work with.

With the new stuff you don't have a choice of how much you want to put in each spot. You're putting the full thickness. With the thinner stuff you can put one layer here, two layers there, three layers over there, etc...

More options for the same price

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Simmsled
Posts: 877
Joined: Sun Nov 24, 2002 11:25 am
Car: TSI GTI - E46 325i
Location: Indy

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Oh sound deadening. You know one thing that many people overlook when dampening is the fact that a bottle of loctite can go a long way. Many screws, nuts, and bolts can come loose (especially in the 240 hatch) and cause a buzzing rattle situation.

Over the years I have realized that there are 3 really good techniques for getting rid of resonance.

1. Secure your screws/bolts/nuts/clamps. Rubber cement for the clips, loctite for anything with a thread. 2. Dynamat, Cascade, Brown Bread... whatever... the stuff works. 3. Cheap ebay memory foam beds. For those wide open spaces (and not so wide) between your body panels and the interior trim panels... cut the memory foam to fit and holy crap it gets quiet. Not only does it keep the panels from moving/squeaking/rattling... it also kills sound moving thru it. (put your face in it and scream... not going to hear much are ya?).

I love the last one, it also helps deaden exhaust resonance very well!

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Soravia
Posts: 3200
Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 5:45 pm
Car: 2003 Audi A4 1.8T

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Will memory form work to help reduce door slam noise?Unlike many others here I prefer to hear every sweak and rattle from my car, it helps me locate the bolts and nuts that are coming loose. I also would like to reduce noise from that 4" pipe end in the back, but not the down-pipe itself.

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Looneybomber
Posts: 9140
Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2004 3:05 pm
Car: 02 explorer sprt (grn)
10 G37S (white)

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To reduce your exhaust note, take that "slip-on" off and put on a quality pipe with adaquate sound damping and resonator(s).


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