Need help with setting idle

1980-1986 Datsun 720 forums. All 720-specific topics and discussion can be found here.
DarkFenom
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2012 10:22 am
Car: 1981 Datsun 720 4X4 Kc mt

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Hi First let me show you the carb I got because the carb pics here are not the same for mine, I got a 81 datsun 720 cali
Image
the two screws circled in green where messed with by people trying to say they knew what to do. I Have eliminated vac leaks, made sure all vac lines where on in proper spots timed my dizzy with timing light everything is running so much better but still high idle. once it heats up im go from 2ooo to 2500 shouldn't it drop to 850 like my label says it should idle at? any ideas on what to due to get it smog able? I need the proper idle to due so here in cali. I was think do I need to axcess the capped screw to get this? I am not sure about my fast idle cam where its set two or needs to be set?


Davezilla
Posts: 95
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2011 5:40 pm
Car: 1990 300ZX
1986 720 4x4

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First of all... Welcome to the forum!!

Now for your carb... The screw you got marked in green down by the base is the idle speed adjustment and it should let you adjust it down to or below the 850 rpm idle speed but the fast idle cam needs to rotate off it's steps so the idle will go down as the engine warms up. The other screw looks like it's for the accelerator pump.

The basic way the electric choke works is by choking the engine for cold starts and raising the idle speed. the idle speed won't come down automatically but by the opening and closing of the throttle as in normal driving, same for starting on a cold morning, you press the gas once, which not only squirts a little fuel into the manifold but also resets the choke to the full choke position, as the heater in the choke heats up the bi metallic coil it slowly opens up the choke as you drive. The fast idle cam operates as you drive when the choke is open enough the cam is allowed to roll over to a lower setting, again done by normal driving or actuating the throttle as the engine warms up, it can't move off the fast idle setting without some throttle input.

Now with the basics of how it all works out of the way, here's what to look for... Is the electric choke fully closed before the engine is started? ( you may need to cycle the throttle one time and the choke should snap shut) And does the choke open up all the way once the engine warms up? If the choke don't open all the way, you may need to loosen the 3 screws on the side of the housing and rotate it until it's fully open after the engine is warmed up, the carb can't come out of fast idle mode until the choke is fully open. So the first thing you'll need to do is check that the choke both fully closes when cold and fully opens after it's warmed up and make the appropriate adjustments.

With the choke adjusted properly you can cycle the throttle and check that the fast idle cam is rotating out of the way and getting the carb out of fast idle mode, you can also hold the choke open and give the engine a rev to see if it returns to slow idle, but it needs to be free enough to do this on it's own.

There's also a small vacuum actuator connected to the choke mechanism called a choke pull off that does exactly what it's called, it's meant to pull the choke off at full throttle. This choke pull off can also interfere with proper operation if it's not working, check it by removing the vacuum line and connecting it to a vacuum pump, it should pull inward and stay that way as long as vacuum is applied. To test it without a vacuum pump, you can push the rod in while blocking off the vacuum inlet with your thumb, the rod should not come back out until you move your thumb off the inlet.

Once all these components are working properly your idle speed should go down as you adjust the screw out as long as there's no vacuum leaks.

Hopefully that covers all the choke mechanism's inner workings to give you a few things to check for in that area... only other thing I can think of that would cause the idle to be too fast is vacuum leaks, but a faulty vacuum advance or power brake booster can also hide a small leak just big enough to make your idle fast or erratic.

DarkFenom
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2012 10:22 am
Car: 1981 Datsun 720 4X4 Kc mt

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Thank You Davezilla for the Forum welcome and through explanation of how it all works I will definitely Go work on my truck today, beause I know my choke is slightly open about 1/3 of of an in, from cold so I need to adjust that plus I did find a vac line that did come free, I got slack so I will trim it back and it should stay on and hopefully that will work. Right now if I get it roughly 900 to 1000 I will be happy because I got to fix a leak in my air cleaner rubber seal I noticed it was cracked pretty bad yesterday but im broke till pay day so. Thanks again Davezilla I will let you how it goes.

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PEZi
Posts: 20441
Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:21 am
Car: Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX Mitsubishi Racing Edition
Location: Pikes Peak, CO
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Awesome response! Welcome newbie!!!


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