need help with ic leaking oil and smoke

[akira2_03]

k so long story short i did a custom build turbo a cheap way. heres what i got.

it is using obx turbo maniobx fmu 8:1oil feed line and drain etc.t25 s13 turbo and elbow and stock side mount intercooler with the stock bov vented not recircstock mafstock injectors stock ecutiming @16*J30 fuel pump

now the problem i have is there is oil leaking from my ic bottom corner there is a puddle in my garage under the ic. now i did have a older turbo but it had blown oil seals so swaped it out but why is there oil coming from my ic? and could that be why there is so much smoke like in my next question?

also when boosting thre is a lot of smoke that comes out the elbow, like covers the road when in boost not sure why so much but its like a diesel except its like a whiteish blue??. also exhaust is not connected it is running off of the elbow. any help please

[Chris28]

White-ish blue smoke means oil. You need a new turbo.

[neverlift]

remove the hose that goes from the valve cover going into your charge pipe/old intake pipe, now send me 50 bux via paypal. go test and let us know.Good night

[akira2_03]

the turbo is a new one. the old turbo had bad oil seal though. thats why i was thinking when the old turbo was in it filled up the ic???

and if i remove that hose from valve cover to intake pipe what should i use to block that valve cover piece off with?

and heres a pic of my cheap setup. i know i know i will change the piping when i get cash. lol



Modified by akira2_03 at 10:41 PM 9/26/2009
Modified by akira2_03 at 11:50 AM 9/29/2009

[neverlift]

at least run it to your turbo inlet pipe. I respect all you guys trying to diy but get it together before you start blowing new turbos and cause many other issues.

when you have it ran like this you are creating a massive amount of pressure in the crank case which does not let the oil drain from the turbo it already has a hard enough time(why some people NEED restrictors)

[neverlift]

also, ditch the j30 pump, I'm sure its better than a stocker but a walbro is only 90 bux. But if I'm wrong wd will chime in and tell you.

[akira2_03]

well i cant remember if i took the j30 or q45. but its the same as the 300zx and was free so i figured it should be more than enough for what im running. and im at stock 7lbs of boost.

and what you mean run it to your turbo inlet pipe? dont flame just tired and lost of which line your talking about sorry. is this what you mean??


Modified by akira2_03 at 11:40 PM 9/26/2009

[neverlift]

that pump `should` work.

the diagram you just posted will solve your oiling...also note with an fmu you want to keep fresh oil

[WDRacing]

Pump should be fine. Change your oil NOW, don't even start the motor again until you do. Either route the valve cover vacuum hose to the pre-turbo pipe or remove the hose and install a filter on the valve cover making sure to plug the hole on the intake pipe. You don't want boost pressure making it into the sump.

Take apart all of your intercooler piping and hit it with brake cleaner or atleast some soapy water and a garden hose. Flush your intercooler as well.

Is there smoke exiting he downpipe?

[akira2_03]

k well i re routed the line to the pre turbo pipe. and cleaned out the ic. now why do i need to change the oil?? i just did it last week. its still clear. do i really need to change it again??

as well as any idea of roughly how much power it will be pushing out now with the way i have it set up??

[Chris28]

They way you had it promoted increased blow by, therefore polluting your oil with gasoline. Gasoline + oil = no bueno for your rod and crank bearings.

[neverlift]

They way you had it promoted increased blow by, therefore polluting your oil with gasoline. Gasoline + oil = no bueno for your rod and crank bearings.

even if it was only around the block a few times I would go ahead and change it you can get the stuff for like 13 bux at autozone last time I was there and that was kendal motor oil not autozone ish.

even if you run 50 dollar oil you have compromised it by pressurizing the crank case. DO what you want, we tell you the safe path.

[WDRacing]

Supertech Synthetic from Wal-Mart works very well and it's cheap.

[240dx]

remove the hose that goes from the valve cover going into your charge pipe/old intake pipe, now send me 50 bux via paypal. go test and let us know.Good night

Just make this into a dam sticky already. :

[neverlift]

you are right wd, I plan to go back to it(honestly think it is made by mobile), its all I used for over a year then saw good ole kendal for 11.99 with filter and been doing that.

I know its getting pretty bad I can diag more than one vc to charge pipe issue over the net without pics

[akira2_03]

k, i will be changing the oil today on it before i run it again. thanks for all the help. i just hope that all this has fixed the smoke problem and etc.

but does anyone know a rough estimate of how much power it will put out?? 180whp?? more or less??

[WDRacing]

The average is 10whp for every 1 lb of boost.

WD

[neverlift]

if the turbo is new and the feed has a restriction , the return is straight and drains good, the oil isnt too high(or you return too low) then you should not have a smoke problem unless its from something else

it is too hard to tell as the multiple minor differences between setups, that and Ive seen sr turbos put out diff boost,while both being stock.

However having had the damn near exact setup for a bit I would estimate close to 185~200 on a cold night , I am no fan of the sr inner heater, IIRC 6psi was making mine hot as all get out with an aftermarket bumper flowing a LOT of air on it.

[akira2_03]

well im thinking now maybe i might need an oil restrictor as i am running a -4 an hose to an inverted flare fitting on the turbo. that may be too much oil?? as for the oil feed its tee'd off the oil switch by the oil filter.

[neverlift]

from my understanding you only run a restrictor IF you are having oiling issues.

you have to look at it this way, the feed side is pressurized to make the bearings float, then the drain is done by gravity. So if your drain can handle no restrictor then you should be fine, but if it cannot you need one

[akira2_03]

k so i have swapped out the dif since the old one was bad and put in a vlsd diff. took it out for a spin to check everything out. so far feels like it pulls good and cant see it smokin and leaving a smoke screen on the road anymore. but it is night time so will check again in the morning.

BUT i have 2 more concerns.

1. after driving it and shutting it off when go to start it again it starts then dies have to tap the gas once for it to stay running. and then when driving it and go into neutral slowing down for lights it will drop to 300-400rpms wanting to die then go up and idle at 500rpms. any ideas?? cold start is proper idle 700-750 rpms

and 2. is when i hit a bump the rear end feels like it gets unbalanced like hopping and rear end shaking/vibrateing. have to let off gas and it steadys out or it just takes a few seconds then steadys out. what is this from?? drive shaft good and diff freshly swapped. cause it did it before thats how i found out the diff was bad. thought this would fix it.

[neverlift]

ok you clearly state you have your bov vta, from the looks of your setup you are running the afm in a suck through type configuration, unless you have a bad a** bov or an afc you will have stall issues as well as stumbles and the car wanting to cut off.

either recirc or go blow through. Those are the free solutions next step is an afc that has decel settings.

Man I am not harping on ya but this is basic turbo ka 101

[akira2_03]

the only reason why i vented the bov was cause i was told to. and that it was the same as if it was on the hot pipe.

[neverlift]

well listen to that person or listen to me/us at nico, when you have your afm on the intake pipe you must A: run your bov recircdB: buy an afc or like C: deal with s*** mileage and stalls/stumbles

or option D go blow through and run a bov before the maf and vent it to atmosphere all day, hell I have my rs directly in front of my maf.

I prefer option D, but this also lets you continue to drive IF a charge pipe pops out or you bust an IC. Some say suck through is better though.

[akira2_03]

im not saying i wont listen to you i was just saying that i set it up like that cause was told to.

i will change it. but blow through i will have to wait till i get a better ic piping set.

[WDRacing]

The easiest thing to do right now is to remove the BOV and plug the hole. You're not running enough boost to do any damage to the turbo. I doubt you'll even notice it, it will still make the "cool swoosh sound" accept it will be coming through the airfilter. Turbo cars used to come from the factory without them.

That way you know if the car is going to run right and you can always add a bov back into the system later.

Damn I'm friggin good sometimes

[akira2_03]

heres a pic of the smic just so you guys can see how its set up. and i'll make changes.

[neverlift]

what wd said

not trying to dis anyone just saying I have been told things and found them to be wrong, thanks to nico most of the time and my god is that a stock tension rod that has not lost its guts wow!

[akira2_03]

k so would this work?

if since the bov is on the intake pipe coming off the ic and move my maf here?? this would make it blow by right?

[neverlift]

that would make it not run like a** while vta.

some debate the blow through vs suck through! I dont believe an afm meters pre compressed air any better than it does post compression.? someone correct em if I am wrong please dont want to spout misinformation

the afm meters at the location it is , regardless of what is actually going on in other areas, I like my maf just before the tb so I have a better reading of what is going into the motor.