need help with bushing removal

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TiDOxs
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Car: Red 95 S14 Zenki

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k so i know the sub-frame bushings are easy and i got those knocked out, but im trying to get the bushings inside the control arm, tie rod, and wheel hub sleeves out..

the ones such as these

directions said to heat the inner metal sleeves then bash it out with something.. we tried that with a blow torch but when we tried wailing on it with a hammer and chisel we only managed to bend the metal and see it go no where

any help please?


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drift240se
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Car: 1993 240SX SE hatch

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yes use a torch. i used a small propane torch like the ones that use the lantern tanks. heat that inside sleeve for a while burn the rubber directly and keep workin it. It will come out. oh and these are some of the easier ones, just so you know whats ahead

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TiDOxs
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oh man.. its good to know at least someone did it using my route, maybe i just gave up too early.. i was discouraged to see the rubber only got burned on the outside and quit

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Ernest2700
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Just get a socket that fits around the inside and use a c-clamp until it comes out if heating doesn't work.

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drift240se
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yeah just try to focus the flame on the inside of the hole. A good 12 pack will help you along.

MJH240SX
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Car: 1990 240SX Hatch, 2010 Mazdaspeed 3

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I agree with ernest2700...

When I did mine, I used a couple pieces of pipe and a c-clamp. One size that is the size of the inner sleeve, and on the other side a piece of pipe that fits over both the sleeve and the rubber. Should slide right out.

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TiDOxs
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i was thinking of the c-clamp idea, has that worked for you?

but ill try heating one more time

either way this project seems like a lengthy process, ill grab a 12 pack and keep at it =P

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drift240se
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also agree with the c-clamp if you have the stuff. i ended up goin this route after the front was almost done.

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TiDOxs
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so you replaced all of your bushings drift240se?

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numbnuts240
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what everyone else said, but remember, the most important part is that 12 pack. you can't skimp out on it, so get a good one

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heartofaskyline
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yes my choice is


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drift240se
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Yuengling FTW thats the very thing that got me through. thank god there is another person that kicks enough a** to have a good drink. and yes i replaced all of them. just inserts on the subframe though.

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TiDOxs
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nice! ill grab that yuengling fo sho!!

thats cool, i just wanted to know if these polyurethane bushings from energy suspension are worth it.. also wanted to know if they actually give the stability that they claim they do

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drift240se
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yes they are worth it. don't think that they are gonna change your life but they are awesome. you won't feel a huge difference probably but they will make you feel much better about your car and your safety knowing they are there.

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sloweighty
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sorry for thread jacking but if you were to put those arms back in do you have to get your car alignment check out............i just wanted to know

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drift240se
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yes it would be good to get an alignment

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Nissan Junky
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I am in the same process on the bushings they are pain in the balls.I have been using a hole saw and going a Little smaller than the outer metal and doing both sides +heating it up+using a socket to bang them out.I just got done with the front driver side just need to install it back,the other side needs the control arm bushing to be remove and i am done with the front.

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drift240se
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well you have the easy part almost done (the front). now just follow our directions (12 pack) and get on to the back.

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Ernest2700
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The c- clamp worked for the stuff I needed to do like that. Get some PB blaster and pull it on out.

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SINsanity702
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It sounds dangerous, and it down right is on ur suspension arms. but i used an electric saw(the same one my shop uses to cut exhaust pipes) to cut the inner shell into 1/2s, and in stubborn cases, 1/4s. then i used a hammer and chisel and knocked them out. it loosens the shell up a lil bit, but i have to be very careful not to cut into my arm. the arm is a lil tougher than the shell, so a few scrapes are ok, i just have to sand them down a bit to get the new bushings in. if im not mistaken, it says this procedure in the Energy Suspension Bushing Install Directions. Then again, i may be...anyways, worked great....1st side i was figurin it all out and took me 3 days(working on cars comin in as well), 2nd side after i figured the saw approach, took me about 4-5 hours

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Nissan Junky
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Yes i know the easy part is the front i am dreading the back but i am getting the hang of it.I will finish next week i am going to carslie this weekend and yes there will be some beer involve on the rear bushing installation,But up in western NY we drink Labat Blue or i have my fatter in-law pick up some wild cat up in Canada.

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drift240se
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there will also be drinking when we get to carlisle

Logan76
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Any shop with a press would probably press those out for you pretty cheap, Thank God I have access to a hydro press and an arbor press. If you want a bit of advice, if you have a freind with oxy/acetelyne or larger propane/oxy torches, they will burn much hotter than that little propane blow torch you have, and work a hell of alot better.

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TiDOxs
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ya im about to try it again today.. maybe with a torch and press =P and i wont forget the brew! i think patience and technique is where yall getting at.. thanks for the allignment tip btw

hbpignosePA
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im not gonna lie

i paid a shop to do them

its waay too much time and effort that it was one bill i didnt mind payin lol

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ppctx
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Old thread, but I look like a monkey humping a football trying to get the dang rear bushing out (all 16 not including the sub frame), really just have issue getting the sleeves out. Tried cutting with hack saw (probably didn't go all the way thru the sleeve). Tried using a big vice and sockets, no dice. Now tearing it up with an air chisel, literally, that’s munching things, including the parts I don’t want to damage. Think I'll try sawing all the way thru the sleeve with a sawzall then chisel. Sucks

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ppctx
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Right.. Burn dont get the sleaves out, now does it. Take it you've never done the rear bushings?

Got any more useless info to post?

Cone Junky
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The rears just suck. After all that work I realized they probably weren't worth it. The larger front bushings make a difference, but there is such a small amount of rubber in the rear I hardly think they make much of a difference. I even had the luxury of having all the arms removed and brought them to my shop. I have torches, air hammers, and hydraulic presses and it was still a major project. I used a combination of all the techniques at some point.

But if you're like me-

#1-you paid for a complete set, so your damn well going to use them all.

#2-any difference-slight or not- is a pretty cheap upgrade and might as well get rid of any stock mushy suspension part.

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Piroclips
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you can do what i didand pay someone else to do it for you>.<

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robertcoupe
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I just finished all of mine a few days ago. The best i found was a drill to get the inner sleeve out. Then with a hack saw, i would cut as close as i was comfortable with, then cut again about 15 to 20 degrees away and then with a chisle i would curl the strip i made. Worked for the sleeves that wernt going anywhere. My vote for most difficult bushings were the rear lower control arms. The sleeves are mushroomed, covering one side.In total, i estimate it took me about 24 to 30 hours in total.Being unemployed is an advantage for doing this. (I was layed off 2 months ago, and am loving it.)


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