Need help with 350z hr m/t from a/t swapped

[Z33_oski]

So I swapped my HR from auto to manual. I was just running the manual transmission. So I decided to change out the ecu and harness to full manual and yes I did wiring from ipdm to the clutch pedal and it was running but since I switched to manual harness now Idk where the clutch wires need to go to. If anyone could help cause I can’t figure it out. Thank you

[VStar650CL]

Okay, the M/T setup is pretty simple minded but you will need to add or modify a few wires. The Engine Room (E) Harness is different in the M?T and not just the Engine (F) Harness. Refer to PG-23 here for wire locations on the IPDM and PG-82 for the SMJ connector F102-M72 that joins the E and Main (M) harnesses:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... r%2FPG.pdf

I'll take the alterations one at a time:
1) Clutch Interlock Switch: You'll need to add the switch to the clutch pedal if you haven't already. There will already be a wire in the right spot on the IPDM, but it went to the TCM on the A/T setup. You now need to route it inside the car to one side of the Interlock Switch. It's a Gray/Red wire on pin 53. The wiring diagram for the interlock is on SC-11 here...
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 7%2Fsc.pdf
...but you don't need to duplicate the entire setup. The other side of the Interlock Switch simply needs fused 12V power, and since the Starter Relay will draw 200 milliamps at most, that can come from any fuse in the cabin fusebox that's alive in the Ignition and Start positions.
2) Reverse Lamp Switch: The setup is completely different on the A/T and M/T systems. The A/T uses a relay, while the the switch directly drives the lamps on the M/T. You can see the differences on pages LT-98 and LT-99 here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... r%2FLT.pdf
Since you're hybridizing and the car already has a relay, the simplest solution is to use the Reverse Switch in the transmission to drive the relay. First, clip the Yellow wire at the switch and connect it to any handy ground on the trans housing. The other wires go through the SMJ connector F102-M72 in different spots, so locate the Orange wire at 6H on F102 and the Yellow wire at 23H on M72, cut both and splice them. That will let the switch in the transmission ground the Reverse Lamp Relay coil just like the TCM did before the swap. In case you ever need to separate the SMJ, I recommend using insulated spade or bullet connectors and not a butt splice.
3) PNP Switch: The only purpose the PNP serves on an M/T is over-rev protection, but it does need to work. That's the other reason to leave the Backup Lamp Relay as-is, because the Yellow wire that feeds the relay on the A/T version also feeds the PNP signal to the ECM on the M/T version. If you decide to wire the backups directly, be aware that you'll need to feed an alternative 12V source to the PNP. If you do it the way I've outlined, you shouldn't need to make any changes.

[Rogue One]

Just a friendly FYI (in case you missed VStar's comment on your other post)...

Cross-posting (i.e. posting the same message in more than one forum board) is frowned upon. It's confusing and often counterproductive. Please choose the forum that is closest to your post, and place it there only. If you should create a post in one forum, and later realize it would be more appropriate in another forum, please delete the original before posting it again.

[NoBarzz]

Okay, the M/T setup is pretty simple minded but you will need to add or modify a few wires. The Engine Room (E) Harness is different in the M?T and not just the Engine (F) Harness. Refer to PG-23 here for wire locations on the IPDM and PG-82 for the SMJ connector F102-M72 that joins the E and Main (M) harnesses:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... r%2FPG.pdf

I'll take the alterations one at a time:
1) Clutch Interlock Switch: You'll need to add the switch to the clutch pedal if you haven't already. There will already be a wire in the right spot on the IPDM, but it went to the TCM on the A/T setup. You now need to route it inside the car to one side of the Interlock Switch. It's a Gray/Red wire on pin 53. The wiring diagram for the interlock is on SC-11 here...
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 7%2Fsc.pdf
...but you don't need to duplicate the entire setup. The other side of the Interlock Switch simply needs fused 12V power, and since the Starter Relay will draw 200 milliamps at most, that can come from any fuse in the cabin fusebox that's alive in the Ignition and Start positions.
2) Reverse Lamp Switch: The setup is completely different on the A/T and M/T systems. The A/T uses a relay, while the the switch directly drives the lamps on the M/T. You can see the differences on pages LT-98 and LT-99 here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... r%2FLT.pdf
Since you're hybridizing and the car already has a relay, the simplest solution is to use the Reverse Switch in the transmission to drive the relay. First, clip the Yellow wire at the switch and connect it to any handy ground on the trans housing. The other wires go through the SMJ connector F102-M72 in different spots, so locate the Orange wire at 6H on F102 and the Yellow wire at 23H on M72, cut both and splice them. That will let the switch in the transmission ground the Reverse Lamp Relay coil just like the TCM did before the swap. In case you ever need to separate the SMJ, I recommend using insulated spade or bullet connectors and not a butt splice.
3) PNP Switch: The only purpose the PNP serves on an M/T is over-rev protection, but it does need to work. That's the other reason to leave the Backup Lamp Relay as-is, because the Yellow wire that feeds the relay on the A/T version also feeds the PNP signal to the ECM on the M/T version. If you decide to wire the backups directly, be aware that you'll need to feed an alternative 12V source to the PNP. If you do it the way I've outlined, you shouldn't need to make any changes.

I have some questions for this. I have a 07 manual HR. Due to outrageous prices on the hr manual harness I got an auto hr dash harness. Trying to figure some stuff out like the location of a couple things. Not sure if I’m missing something or just dumb. The grey and red wire would be jumped at the ipdm to bypass the nss. The yellow wire for the trans is on the engine harness. Trying to figure this out. Sorry to revive a post from the dead.

[VStar650CL]

The GY/R interlock wire works the same way on both M/T and A/T versions, the only difference is that the TCM supplies 12V to it on an A/T and the clutch switch supplies 12V on the M/T. It doesn't actually matter where the switch gets 12V, you can connect it to any handy +ignition circuit. The other side of the switch should connect directly to GY/R at the IPDM, just sever it and splice the wire from your switch into the IPDM.

[NoBarzz]

The GY/R interlock wire works the same way on both M/T and A/T versions, the only difference is that the TCM supplies 12V to it on an A/T and the clutch switch supplies 12V on the M/T. It doesn't actually matter where the switch gets 12V, you can connect it to any handy +ignition circuit. The other side of the switch should connect directly to GY/R at the IPDM, just sever it and splice the wire from your switch into the IPDM.

Ok and the wire for the ecu to know neutral. Also using a very harness and trying to find exactly which pin to resin for the harness to supply power to the fuel pump. Currently scavenging the fsm now

Thank you for the help.

[VStar650CL]

The PNP switch on M/T's is on the back right of the transmission. You can find the diagram on EC-524 here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 7%2Fec.pdf

Fuel pump wiring is in the same section, EC-692.

[NoBarzz]

The PNP switch on M/T's is on the back right of the transmission. You can find the diagram on EC-524 here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 7%2Fec.pdf

Fuel pump wiring is in the same section, EC-692.

Alright. So am I screwed and have to just buy manual harness or ? So my issue is. I have bypassed the gr/r wire for the clutch to let the car crank but security light is stuck on. Fans turn straight on as well. Not sure what the issue is.

[VStar650CL]

Fans on means your ECM has no power, is misconnected to CAN, or is just dead. When the IPDM can't hear the ECM on CANbus, it turns the fans on high as a safety measure. When the BCM can't hear it, it lights the security lamp. And of course the engine can't start that way.

[NoBarzz]

Fans on means your ECM has no power, is misconnected to CAN, or is just dead. When the IPDM can't hear the ECM on CANbus, it turns the fans on high as a safety measure. When the BCM can't hear it, it lights the security lamp. And of course the engine can't start that way.

Is there any way I can pm you ? Got social media or anything to bounce ideas ? Thinking to power the ecu manually and see if that works. Car ran fine. Ecu is tuned and nats deleted. I don’t think it’s turning on though.

[VStar650CL]

Hey, the most likely cause is a simple blown ECM fuse. It's in the IPDM, usually marked "EGI" in the identifiers on the cover. If it's blown and the car did run, then your mission is to find out why it blew.

[VStar650CL]

PS - I don't do social media, the Mob disgusts me. You can PM me, but I'll ask you to post here anyway because PM's deprive the community of the information. The real problem you have is that you should have gone wire by wire over the electrical differences before trying to coopt the A/T harness, and now you're trying to work back to something which should have already been done. There are no shortcuts for that. It's a complete, time-consuming pain in the arse, but it needs to be done or you blow s#it up.

[NoBarzz]

PS - I don't do social media, the Mob disgusts me. You can PM me, but I'll ask you to post here anyway because PM's deprive the community of the information. The real problem you have is that you should have gone wire by wire over the electrical differences before trying to coopt the A/T harness, and now you're trying to work back to something which should have already been done. There are no shortcuts for that. It's a complete, time-consuming pain in the arse, but it needs to be done or you blow s#it up.

Good thing with a bit of patience you’ll figure it out over time. Got the car running. The ecu isn’t getting power like you said. After reviewing fsm all night I got it sourced down and applied power to ecu myself and got it going great. Thank you for all the help.

[VStar650CL]