hey, I'm new to the site so forgive me if this is the wrong section to post this, but I could use some advice. I am getting ready to do a full audio install on my I35 and I could greatly benefit from some pictures or how to threads, ive googled, but can't quite find anything in depth.
I plan on running around about 2100 rms so my charging system and grounds all need to be dealt with, and i will be getting an h/o alt down the road
I pretty much would just appreciate anything that will make this install a bit easier for me. Lol, this is the first decent car i've owned and I don't want to ruin it with shotty guess work. thanks for reading
here is the stuff I really want to know
*what are the sizes of door speakers I can run
*what is the best place to place a solid ground for my amp which will likely be on the rear seat
*where is a good place to drill/bolt a ground for my auxiliary battery in the trunk
*how fragile is the dash trim and center console, and is it easy to run rca cables through the center
*what is the best place to ground my battery neg to the engine
*and are the factory door speakers components or are the tweeters on separate channels
Need help with 2k2 I35 Full system install
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dbaxRonin
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2011 6:13 pm
- Car: 2016 Infiniti Q50 Red Sport 400
2010 Infiniti G37x AWD Coupe (Traded in)
2001 Infiniti i30L (Traded in)
Re: Need help with 2k2 I35 Full system install
I mounted my amp to the back seat of my 01 i30 and ran the ground under the back seat...I just drilled a new hole and sanded off the paint to ensure it was going directly to clean metal. I've never installed a suplimentary battery in the rear of a car, but if you do I would imagine once you find a ground for that, you could instead just run your amp ground directly to the battery instead of using a separate ground.
I would imagine the fragility of the dash trim is similar to mine, and I found that it is pretty solid...compared to other cars I have owned in the past. As always though, don't force anything until you know how it comes off to reduce the risk of breaking clips, cracking, etc.
Not sure about running the rca's through the center console, though I did run some auxiliary power wires through mine. Center consoles are always a PITA to remove the first time, but in your case it is worth the effort. Running the RCA's separate of your power lead is ideal to help eliminate any interference pickup.
Rarely are component speakers on separate channels. I imagine that you have a single source split off from the driver and there is some type of in-line filter going to the tweeter...this is very common for most stock component speaker arrangements. If you are going to replace, your components will come with a block to split your signal between the driver and the tweeter.
I don't know what size your door drivers are...if I had to guess I would say 6.5". You can go to crutchfield.com and enter in your car and it will tell you what you have, and give you a list of replacements that will fit. Sometimes you can fit bigger speakers than what is there depending on the configuration of the speaker pod...it is often best to just look and figure out what is possible.
Not sure about the front battery ground...what is wrong with where it is now?
Hope that helps with some of your questions. Have fun!
I would imagine the fragility of the dash trim is similar to mine, and I found that it is pretty solid...compared to other cars I have owned in the past. As always though, don't force anything until you know how it comes off to reduce the risk of breaking clips, cracking, etc.
Not sure about running the rca's through the center console, though I did run some auxiliary power wires through mine. Center consoles are always a PITA to remove the first time, but in your case it is worth the effort. Running the RCA's separate of your power lead is ideal to help eliminate any interference pickup.
Rarely are component speakers on separate channels. I imagine that you have a single source split off from the driver and there is some type of in-line filter going to the tweeter...this is very common for most stock component speaker arrangements. If you are going to replace, your components will come with a block to split your signal between the driver and the tweeter.
I don't know what size your door drivers are...if I had to guess I would say 6.5". You can go to crutchfield.com and enter in your car and it will tell you what you have, and give you a list of replacements that will fit. Sometimes you can fit bigger speakers than what is there depending on the configuration of the speaker pod...it is often best to just look and figure out what is possible.
Not sure about the front battery ground...what is wrong with where it is now?
Hope that helps with some of your questions. Have fun!
Re: Need help with 2k2 I35 Full system install
thanks for that info, I'm just bit apprehensive about drilling into this car, my last car had more holes than a junky, thinking about bolting a grounding block directly to the body, anyone know if there is a flat piece of metal under the rear seat that is a straight shot to pavement?
also I have figured out which size components that I am using, and now running the power is as easy as tucking it away under the runs. So I am slowly getting a plan formulated, anyone know how hard it is to fit after market tweeters in the factory location?
also I have figured out which size components that I am using, and now running the power is as easy as tucking it away under the runs. So I am slowly getting a plan formulated, anyone know how hard it is to fit after market tweeters in the factory location?
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dbaxRonin
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2011 6:13 pm
- Car: 2016 Infiniti Q50 Red Sport 400
2010 Infiniti G37x AWD Coupe (Traded in)
2001 Infiniti i30L (Traded in)
Re: Need help with 2k2 I35 Full system install
You may have to get creative with the tweeters. I don't know how the stock are mounted in yours, but often times aftermarket tweeters just don't line up with the stock configuration. My GTO was an exception...the bracket holding the stock attached to the screw hole in the center of the magnet and my MB Quarts fit it perfectly. My Regal on the other hand required a bit of surgery to the door panel for it to fit. Luckily most aftermarket kits come with a wide variety of mounting hardware and it is usually enough to figure out something that will work.
I can relate to your apprehension about drilling holes through the floor, but so long as you plan your spot out carefully, you should be OK. I usually get under the car and scope out the general area of where I am thinking of mounting it and insure there is nothing in the way that could cause problems. Just don't skimp when it comes to finding a good ground...it is essential to making sure your system has good, clean current.
One thing you may want to consider adding to your system based on the amount of power it sounds like you are planning on running is a capacitor. This will insure you have a steady flow of power when you're rocking your socks off and the amp is drawing a heavy load. They are relatively cheap, and you can get a distribution block that mounts right up to it. Here is a snap of how mine is currently setup...no show stopper by any means, but functionally speaking it works good. Be wary that although the back seat has a lot of space on it, the opening to the trunk is kind of small, so it turns out you only have so much usable room on the seat to work with and still allow it to completely fold back up, hence the cramped proximity of my cap to the amp. Of course you have a different model car than mine, so maybe you have more room to work with.
I can relate to your apprehension about drilling holes through the floor, but so long as you plan your spot out carefully, you should be OK. I usually get under the car and scope out the general area of where I am thinking of mounting it and insure there is nothing in the way that could cause problems. Just don't skimp when it comes to finding a good ground...it is essential to making sure your system has good, clean current.
One thing you may want to consider adding to your system based on the amount of power it sounds like you are planning on running is a capacitor. This will insure you have a steady flow of power when you're rocking your socks off and the amp is drawing a heavy load. They are relatively cheap, and you can get a distribution block that mounts right up to it. Here is a snap of how mine is currently setup...no show stopper by any means, but functionally speaking it works good. Be wary that although the back seat has a lot of space on it, the opening to the trunk is kind of small, so it turns out you only have so much usable room on the seat to work with and still allow it to completely fold back up, hence the cramped proximity of my cap to the amp. Of course you have a different model car than mine, so maybe you have more room to work with.