need help whats my next step ??

[AlkYMiXr]

OK from the start the firt thing I did when I got the Q was flush oil and coolant (most fluids ) replaced. after about 2k my oil light came on i stoped driving it untill i could drop the pan and clean it. after doing some searching on here i am pretty confident that i HAVE a sludge issue and no a chain guide in my oil pick up ( chain guides done and pan droped at T3 ) so after reading this, http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Is_a...while And a few related posts on Nico, I am very confident that i have a sludge Problem that I have unleashed but from what i have read the loose sludge could be anywhere not just in the pan. IE when I did another flush yesterday ran great for 10 min then sounded like a disiel for a few min ,no oil light,then I let it sit for a while and it never came back. now the light will come on during test drive but intermitently never on for more that 10 sec . so i am looking for sugestions on my next step what can i do short of tossing the Q or rebuilding the engine that will help disolve the sludge and if i use somthing like a flush again dont you think i run the risk of lossening more ?? and causeing a bigger prob??? thanks in advance

I have noticed that the oil light doesnt come on ( flash on and off ) until the car is at normal operating temp
Modified by AlkYMiXr at 8:48 AM 1/24/2008

[AlabamaDan]

What do you mean by "Flush the Oil"? I've never read about sludge being a problem on Qs, but I could be wrong.

[qship96]

What do you mean by "Flush the Oil"? I've never read about sludge being a problem on Qs, but I could be wrong.

Oil sludge can happen to ANY car, all it takes is poor oil change habits{running oil too long}

Just ask WES what killed his first Q...search way back here to see the threads.

Almost impossible to clean up a well sludged motor without a complete tear down,and even then all you can do is remove the goop...the wear and damage to engine is ir-revesable...rebuild or replace with a questionable JDM {JUNKYARD] take-out.

[AlkYMiXr]

First by "FLUSH THE OIL" i mean adding a "Chemical" to the oil designed to clean the lubercating system . Second the reason i used the flush to begin with is because when i aquired the car it had been sitting for 2 years. Before that it was maintained very well and had all the bigger jobs ( chain guides ect) done at T3. The PO would take it to t3 and have the "Next know problem fixed" I have posted the records before, but the only thing i see that would pertain to this problem is the chain guides. the only other thing i ahve noticed that i think is helpful is that the oil light dosent seem to come on ( it flashes never on for more that 2-3 seconds) but dosnt flash until the car is at normal operating temp.

[maxnix]

I would take it to T-3 and have them check the torque on the main crank bolt.

If that doesn't cure it, and BG Quick Clean didn't do it, might consider

http://www.envirolution.com

I can email you a contact.

[heywier427]

if t3 is so familiar with the car, bring it back to them.

the only thing i would say is drop the pan and check the oil pickup?

[AlkYMiXr]

Would love to take it to t3 but I and the car are now in PA and being that i am not driving to work i am not going to attempt a trip to ATL

[Q45tech]

Oil pressure always drops to lowest point at hot idle the cold idle can be 5 times the hot idle psi..............start at 60-100 psi falls to 15 psi when warm to 176F.

Important to connect accurate oil pressure gauge and graph the oil psi vs time from start and coolant temp to understand what's happening.

Check [measure torque] of crankshaft bolt.

Sitting 2 years will destroy oil, sitting 6 months might cause irreversable damage.

M45 has a requirement to drive every month for warranty. [minimum annual mileage].

[AlkYMiXr]

When checking the crankshaft bolt what is the easiest way to do that can it be gotten to without dismanteling the car also is there a good thread or dose anyone have a good way to set up a oilpresure gauge

[Haitian_King]

Just wondering,

How far are you away from Philadelphia? I'd love to help out. I'm very interested in learning more about the VH and the Q in general. I've been having trouble finding other Q owners in the vicinity.

[Q45tech]

The 260-275 pound feet is tough for a typical torque wrench and the average non gym going human.

Put on lift , remove belly pan put socket on bolt, hold crank shaft pulley/balancer rigid with speial chain wrench wedged against something sold. Measure torque on bolt [adjust/correct torque wrench if you add a longer extenstion to multiply you arm strength]

Something most mechanics understand, whether they make the necesssary corrections is another matter....................chain wrench is necessary to avoid bending breaking crank pulley................break a chunk off and it goes out of balance and needs to be replaced and rebalanced..

[AlkYMiXr]

1 I am 2 Hrs from philly (assumeing the traffic is decent )

2 I am interested about this crank bolt ... at what point do you think the oil pump would start slipping?? im guessing that if i am going to need a chain wrench to check it it may not be a noticeable looseness.. i am going to give this a try as i recntly froze up my a/c condenser while drivng wich caused the a/c belt to break and the car so stall. maybe enuf force to loosen it???

[Haitian_King]

Gee Whiz. I thought you were closer. I'm on the outside extreme edge of Philadelphia. The Chestnut Hill Section. When I say "edge" I really mean it. When I cross the street to the other side, I cease to be in Philadelphia and commence to being in Lafayette Hill. Germantown Ave becomes Germantown Pike. Quite the geographical oddity.

[AlkYMiXr]

Just wanted to throw this out and see what happens. I am currently running 5 30 synthetic dose anyone think that jumping up my oil weight will help??

[gammer_ghn]

Just go to a auto parts store and ask for a de sludge. you pour it in let it idle for 5 mins than change your oil it loosens the sludge. But sludge can be your friend if your gaskets are old it would help it not leak and once you clean up you will notice if you need new gaskets. In my Y33 it worked great i got a lot of dirty oil out of my car when my car only had 1000 miles on its oil change so as i believe it works.

[Haitian_King]

Just go to a auto parts store and ask for a de sludge. you pour it in let it idle for 5 mins than change your oil it loosens the sludge. But sludge can be your friend if your gaskets are old it would help it not leak and once you clean up you will notice if you need new gaskets. In my Y33 it worked great i got a lot of dirty oil out of my car when my car only had 1000 miles on its oil change so as i believe it works.

A good point.

AlkyMixr,

HAve you checked your levels lately? Perhaps there's a leak somewhere that's not showing up on the floor. I remember Brymaxx had an issue with missing oil, but no obvious signs of leaking. I know that the 02-05 2.5 Altimas had an issue with oil consumption as a result of a header issue. It happened toa firend of mine. He found he was losing about 2 quarts a week, but he couldn't find any sign of a leak.

[maxnix]

Just go to a auto parts store and ask for a de sludge.

Beter yet, get some BG Quick Clean or do an envirolution crankcase flush.

http://www.envirolution.com

http://www.bgfindashop.com

Put the BG in while idling immediately before the crankcase drain. Do not race the engine or use High RPM.

[Haitian_King]

Good stuff.

I read somewhere the other day about people using some ATF fluid in the engine to help clean it. Sounded weird. Anything beneficial from it?

[Q45tech]

Always best to select the solvent, detergent, and carrier that will actually clean the deposits and sludge......................this requires lots of lab testing or individual research on every SPECIFIC engine to yield meaningful results.Different brands of oils will deposit slightly different sludge formulas.

Burn and bake motor oils use thick aluminum pan in an oven until carbonized then bake them at 250F for a week then see what cleans best.

No far rubbing just a cleaner type liguid poured on them.

Experience in a commercial kitchen will be helpful

Many liquids [except acids and alkalies] will do little harm if used in small quanities:

Caution: With Q45 you must be concerned with a solvents action on rubber and plastic seals [HLA, Head gasket portions, valve stem seals, valve cover seals and RTV, etc etc.

You don't want to clean an engine and destroy the bearings or pit the aluminum causing cracks and failure.

A MUCH MUCH tougher case than old iron blocks or mixed engines, that's the rub they don't make solvents for all aluminum engines because they don't know every rubber internal....................SO THEY MAKE WEAK do little products to sell to public...............if it doesn't work, hard to get sued for damages.

[xerexabante]

Put some 20-50 and Lucas oil stabilizer. This is not a permanent fix but to prolong. You might have some oil gullies that are full of sludge.

[AlkYMiXr]

I have run the motor flushes in the engine a few times now with no resulsts today i drianed again and replaced with 10 40 maxlife ..... actually made it worse no the oil light is on all the time and the ticking is more prominite also i have noted that there are no dents in the oil pan i have checked and rechecked i would try more ( different ) flushes but how many times can i change the oil ????

[qship96]

Have you measured oil pressure by removing sender and connecting a oil pressure gauge? Maybe the oil pressure sensor is faulty and causing light to come on? If sensor is operating correctly,I fear engine death is near

[AlkYMiXr]

No i havent used a oil pressure gauge on it but i am sure that the sensor is working as i have the valve tapping

[AlkYMiXr]

Maxnix I would Love to get the envirolution flush but how can i find out who has one in my area i went to the site but i didnt see a locator

[qship96]

No i havent used a oil pressure gauge on it but i am sure that the sensor is working as i have the valve tapping

I dont think any additional flushing is going to solve the problem,I think your best bet at this point is to take to dealer for professional diagnosis..could be oil pump problem,loose crank bolt,or something else-1 hour cost of their labor will steer you in right direction as how to proceed from there.Doing another flush is probobly a futile waste of more $ than the trained tech look-see will cost

[AlkYMiXr]

Yea i would like that i guess ill ahve to settle for a Nissan dealer as thee are no infiniti deakers within an hour drive

[maxnix]

Dealer probably isn't going togive a damn. Try some high detergent motor oils for detergent. Some are discussed in old oil thread.

I have seen what envirolution can pull out of a coked up engine. Like the BG ATF exchange machine, worst cases demand 2 or 3 cycles while hooked up.

Call Tom Mackin and see who has one near you. Varnish in HLA orifices is problematic, so running high detergent oil wih <1000 mile OCI might be your best plan of attack after a crankcase flush.

[AlkYMiXr]

Maxnix I am still trying to find a local shop that has one I called Tom but he is no longer in the enviroluition bussiness he hooked me up with a 800 number now im just waiting to here back from them

[maxnix]

AlkyMixr, please send me that information as Tom was my only contact for them.

Thank you.

[gammer_ghn]

Some Infiniti Stealerships are BG stores and have technicians that do the work for you. the fist time i used BG products i went to a dealer drove into the nice garage they have in the back and went to one of the guys that seemed to be cool and asked him if he can do the whole deal for me. I had the BG products with me and he did it for $20, and now i know how to do it my self so i do it and save my money. If you want the dealer to do it for you its going to be $150 and its only the fuel system but I spent $50 and got the trio and got my TB cleaned also and the idiot poured me a free BG44k and I showed him I had it his like one is enough so I got a freebie those things are like $20. haha