Need help Troubleshooting problems with my Q

[DonDotta95Q]

Hi everyone on Nico.  I have a 1995 Q45T that I am trying to diagnose some problems on.   

1)  I have a problem with low end power.  It feels sluggish on power until about 3000rpms, then it really pulls out.  Its only from a stop, on the highway it really pulls on a downshift. The plugs were recently changed when I bought them (NGK Iridiums), the car idles good (a little rough in park, but very smooth in Drive).  On a cold start it idle at 1250, and on warm idle it idle at about 800 in park, and 650 in drive.  I ohmed the injectors, and though they were not in the 10-14k range (they all read 4.1), they were all in spec of each other.  However, I did the knock sensors, and one read 527k and the other one read Open Loop.  So I am guessing this is the problem.  

2)  I feel the engine vibrate (no matter in park, neutrual, or drive)  between the rpms of 1700-1900 rpms.  I thinking this either motor mounts. I also have an exhaust leak before the cats, maybe the cat is clogged?

3) I hear a slightly loud ticking (sound more like a plastic hitting) coming from under the intake.  I guessing that's the injectors?  I will post a pic later.

4) My brakes turn orange, and start dropping orange dust when it sits for a couple days. I just changed the rear brakes, and rotors. Is that normal?

Last, but not least.   I am having some charging system problems.   When I bought the car, he said it had a bad battery because the alternator was not charging the battery.   So when I got the car, I got the old battery tested, and it had a dead cell.  I bought a New battery, and everything seems fine. But now the battery drains very fast when the car is IGN ON. I tested the alternator, and it was 13.4v when it was loaded with every accesory on, and 13.7 with no accesories on. When I disconnected the battery with the car running the car lost no power, and the alternator was reading at 13.9-14v.

Sorry for the long post, but I'm just trying to put everything out there.






New battery new ba new battery, and it started up fine for about a week.    Now it seems like the battery get drain very fast when the car is in the Ignition On position.  

[Q451990]

Your first symptom definitely sounds like knock sensors... the exhaust leak and suspect injectors could part of the problem too. I think I would try the injector test again. They usually read higher than 14 ohms as they go out - then open when they die.

Orange brakes... weird one! Are you sure it's not just surface rust?

It definitely sounds like you have a charging issue... the spec. is 14.1 - 14.7VDC, so there is either a heavy draw somewhere, or the alternator is on it's way out. I would avoid that "pull the battery cables and see if the car runs" test in the future... sending voltage to the car's delicate electronics that hasn't been buffered over the battery is asking for trouble.

Heath

[DonDotta95Q]

Thank for the reply.

I will test the fuel injectors again tomorrow. When I tested them, the battery was reading only like 10V so maybe that's why I couldn't get an accurate reading. However, they all read the same at 4.1 OHMs all across the board.

Yea I kind of figured it wasn't a safe thing to do. I was searching the forum, and I someone said do that to see if the alternator was bad. I won't do it again. I have a new alternator sitting in the garage when I need to put it on, but I am waiting to see if it is a bad alternator. Also the battery cables and connectors look worn out and won't tighten to the post of the battery. Would this cause the battery not to charge properly?

The brakes, I think it surface rust because we have been getting alot of snow and rain lately. It just kinda worried me a little.

EDIT: I was looking at the negative battery cable, and does it suppose to be black with a yellow stripe on it?

[DonDotta95Q]

Update: I tried to ohm the injectors again when I charged the battery up last night, and they were still reading low ohms (around 4.3 OHMs all across the board. So I don't know what going on with that. They car does ride smooth, and the gas mileage isn't bad.

As far as the low power at low speed, the guy I bought it from put a CAI on the car (I am not really fond of it, though it sound mean), and I am wondering if it is messing with the MAF sensor. Is there anyway to test that. I am still thinking the knock sensor are bad because of the OL ohm reading I got on one of them.

I've been hearing horror stories about removing the plenum and alternator. But really how hard is it. I do my own brakes, oil and trans fluid changes), and have decent tool (air tools and a good wrench set). I also have a very experienced mechanic that works on my family's cars that I may take it to.

[goody90q45]

Ohm test #1, #2 and #8 injectors directly on the injector pins and see what readings you get. You can also get a 10 ohm resistor from Radio Shack for a couple of dollars and ohm test it to verify that your voltmeter is working properly.

[kevindanielk]

The dreaded alternator, starter and steering pump removal and reinstall were a breeze compared to totally removing and replacing the plenum, without doing any damage to a lot of other stuff in the process. I have worked on cars for over 20 years and the Q is not your typical Japanese auto. It wasn't designed with the DIYer in mind. It was a rich man's car and meant to be dealer serviced. It takes a lot of patience and time to properly work on and do repairs to it but when it's running as it was designed to, it's a joy to drive. I'm sure you could tackle the knock sensor job. There are lots of repair write-ups on here, even one for the dreaded under plenum work.
I was actually able to unbolt and only slightly lift my plenum up to change my knock sensors, without a total plenum removal. Small, limber hands and lots of ratchet wobble extensions also helped with that repair. Sometimes, you have to find ways to work around problems and that is what most mechanically inclined people are capable of doing.

[DonDotta95Q]

I just ohm tested #1, #2, & #8 injectors and here are the reading.

#1-10.6
#2-10.7
#8-10.6
Are these good readings?

So there were in there same spec as when I tested them through the harness, but the harness is giving me a low Ohm reading.

@kevindanielk

Yea I know these cars don't look like the typical DIY person work, but I think I can handle. I really like this car though, and I really want to keep another Q out of the Junkyard.

I have a good question for whoever worked on a Northstar V8, how does it compare to that lol.

[DonDotta95Q]

I just ohm tested #1, #2, & #8 injectors and here are the reading.

#1-10.6
#2-10.7
#8-10.6
Are these good readings?

So there were in there same spec as when I tested them through the harness, but the harness is giving me a low Ohm reading.

@kevindanielk

Yea I know these cars don't look like the typical DIY person work, but I think I can handle. I really like this car though, and I really want to keep another Q out of the Junkyard.

How hard is the Q to work on compared to other engine (for example the Northstar V8 lol)