Need help suggestions. Engine build.HELP

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bigz
Posts: 25
Joined: Sat Aug 21, 2004 8:45 am

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Hello everyone im new to the forum. I need some suggestions and advice. im a big newb. I have a 95 s14

Ok well I have a pos stock volvo turbo and an Emanage, somehow my emanage was poorly tuned and my small sized turbo caused damage to 2 of my pistons which have no compresion now. So im thinking well ok this is my chance to maybe build my motor a bit and then invest on a new t04 turbo. So i take my car to this place in south florida called HP motors and they agree that yes I have 2 pistons with no compresion. So I order my wiseco pistons 557.00 , 942.00 for labor to remove and install drive train, 1,000 for complete assembly/calibartion of the long block and thats not even including machine work so probably another 500 for machine work. the guy calls me 2 weeks later and tells me my block is in bad condition damage to the head, scratches on the cam shaft and damage on the bores of where my pistons were. So he suggests to get a new block so he orders me a 1991 ka block and charges me 450bux for it. Im wondering if a 1991 block is bad/ or should i tell him to get me a better block, am i getting ripped off? what should I do? I already payed the guy 1,200 bux to start the work 2 weeks ago and im kinda stuck right now. So please let me know if you have any advice.

thank you


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Aaron_9349
Posts: 58
Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2004 11:01 am
Car: 95 240sx

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I would say ripped off.

I bought a set of those Wiesco pistons... 9.0-1 compression ratio, with the 89.5mm bore for under $500 shipped. Desided on a different set... CP and sold those on Ebay.

With those pistons you have to have the cylinders bored out from the original 89mm bore to the new bore of 89.5mm or oversized .020. Unless you have the same size bore pistons as your stock (89mm) Then you would just have the cylinders honed.

Now, I'm guessing the pistons are oversized, which means you need the cylinders bored out, which means your cylinders should be like new, provided you did not have any deep gashes or holes in the walls, which would be the result of throwing a rod most likely. I would ask to see the damage to your cylinder walls, and get the specs on the pistons.

If your pistons are stock bore, then honing the cylinder walls also brings them back to like new state, as long as you don't have any severe damage once again.

If you do have damage, you may be able to re-sleeve the block, without having to get a whole new block. I've seen this done on a small block chevy race engine, where a rod went threw the cylinder wall, but they were able to save the block with a new sleeve. It all comes down to cost effective, is it cheaper to get a new block than resleeve it?

The 91 block from my understanding will be essentially the same as the 95, except I am unsure whether or not the sensors will match up. It may not have a coolant sensor located directly under the intake manifold like the 95 has. I'm not as familiar with the 91 engine differences.

As for the cost of the engine work, its not too steep. I'm assuming the engine is still in the car, and that you didn't pull the engine out and bring it in yourself. I payed $700 for my block to be machined, assembled, balanced, and blue printed, as well as my head and flywheel resurfaced. I gave them all the parts, so that didn't include the prices of the parts.

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fiznat
Posts: 6284
Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2002 10:15 am
Car: Grown up :(
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I think you're getting ripped off as well.

First of all, rebuild pistons are ALWAYS overbore. That's part of the rebuild process, to bore out a fresh cyl. wall for the piston rings to seal up against. If there are scratches in your walls like he says, they should easially come out with the bore+hone. If they are so deep that they wont, I'd either question this guy's integrity or wonder what the hell happened to your engine to make those scratches-- must've been something serious.

He's also charging you a TON for the install. "1,000 for complete assembly/calibartion of the long block and thats not even including machine work"??? What does that even mean, assembly/calibration without the machine work?? If you're talking about just an assembly + balance you SHOULD be paying about $300 max for assembly, and $200 max for a full all-out race balance. Boring a cyl is usually around $40-$60 per hole. The $942 to "remove and install drive train" (I assume pull the engine?) is a little steep as well. Pulling the KA is like a 3 hour job, even less for someone who knows what they're doing. You can do it in your damn driveway for zero cost if you have any idea what you're doing.

$450 for a replacement block is ALSO hugely expensive. I spent $200 for my 1997 KA with ALL accessories, head, AND tranny. I got a good deal but still look on the buy/sell/trade forums here and you'll find MANY DOHC engines for far less than the price this guy wants. And scratches on your camshafts?? I'd like to see that one.

Also about what the guy above me said, the KA block doesnt have sleeves as far as I know, so no re-sleeving

This guy sounds shady to me... and waaaay overpriced. I'd look elsewhere if you still can.

Projex240
Posts: 926
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 9:52 pm
Car: Dogs , My RIDE

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i dont care what the rebuild says--you dont need a new block--especailly one that 450 bucks when theya re cheaper than that fully assembled and running on ebay.

your getting ripped off. but then again, its not lke you have a TON of other options. pay it and learn from the experience.

the pistons werent that bad. a little much, but not awful overpriced. the motorwork-OMG--900 and somthing to r&r?!man--this guy loves customers like you. Go to him, and tell hm you want it cheaper, SHop guys can ALWAYS work with prices.

-Josh


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