Need Help on Diagnosis (Parasitic Battery Drain)

[zengshengliu]

I have been having problems with my car.
If I leave the car there for a week without driving it, (either lock or unlocked), the battery will die (volt drop to ~9.5v)
I used a multimeter to test the battery and pull all the fuses one by one, and relays too, and found the following result:

Inside car fuse panel:
The i-key one takes about 20 mA, which I believe is normal
After market alarm (viper 5901) - Check amp draw on ground point
Both armed and disarmed are taking 30 - 40 mA, after it stables, ~20-30mA

Under the hood(I checked both fuse panel under the hood):

The only power draw I found is the two I circled on the picture above
top one draws about 60 mA, bottom one draws about 20-30 mA

Total Amp draw with everyone connected, and
car unlocked, alarm disarmed: ~150mA, after a minute: ~130mA
car locked, alarm disarmed: ~150mA, after a minute: ~120mA
car locked and armed: ~160mA, after a minute: ~120mA

Can someone with more experience on car electronic help me? What could cost the problem?

[ImStricken06]

first things, first:

• how old is your battery?
  what condition is it in?
  has it ever been allowed to die(if so, how many times?)
  how often do you drive it, and for how long?
  do you ever allow it to reach 3200rpm of above?

[Rogue One]

How To Perform a Parasitic Draw Test - EricTheCarGuy
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0[/youtube]

How to Check Your Car Battery and Not Get Ripped Off
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGMmtcsu ... e=youtu.be[/youtube]

[rickrogue]

you are on the right track, but make sure your battery voltages is in full charge and battery power/ground connection is in good condition.. now try to disconnect the fan 1 & 2 connector..and see what happen and if still doing the same thing, pull out the diagram for BCM and find a component etc. that goes F/L 50A bcm/power window and eliminate them one by one, usually theres a 1 to 5 component tie on higher amp and try your power window switches maybe those are faulty

Goodluck

[zengshengliu]

first things, first:

• how old is your battery?
  what condition is it in?
  has it ever been allowed to die(if so, how many times?)
  how often do you drive it, and for how long?
  do you ever allow it to reach 3200rpm of above?

The battery is about an year old. I got it changed because the old one died after a few days on driveway.
I die once, which is last week. I usually drive it 4-5 times a week, but last week I have a break so the car was sit there for 5 days (and battery die)
I usually drive for half an hour to an hour, twice a day, 4 - 5 days a week

[Yev]

The first thing I would do is check to see that the battery connections are not corroded. New battery or not, corroded terminals will create electrical issues. If your connections are fine, have a mechanic inspect your alternator and battery. If the alternator and battery are fine, then consider inspecting your vehicle for relay(s) that are working improperly. It can even be a burnt out map light bulb that is in the ON position, but you cannot tell the difference if the bulb is dead....

[zengshengliu]

The first thing I would do is check to see that the battery connections are not corroded. New battery or not, corroded terminals will create electrical issues. If your connections are fine, have a mechanic inspect your alternator and battery. If the alternator and battery are fine, then consider inspecting your vehicle for relay(s) that are working improperly. It can even be a burnt out map light bulb that is in the ON position, but you cannot tell the difference if the bulb is dead....

As stated in the first post, I checked all the fuses and relays that I can find(2 under the hood, and one under the dash
The connection is not corroded. The battery is only one year old.

[Rogue One]

The first thing I would do is check to see that the battery connections are not corroded. New battery or not, corroded terminals will create electrical issues. If your connections are fine, have a mechanic inspect your alternator and battery. If the alternator and battery are fine, then consider inspecting your vehicle for relay(s) that are working improperly. It can even be a burnt out map light bulb that is in the ON position, but you cannot tell the difference if the bulb is dead....

As stated in the first post, I checked all the fuses and relays that I can find(2 under the hood, and one under the dash
The connection is not corroded. The battery is only one year old.

That's all well and good, but you still need to have the entire system checked. My first thought was the fault may lie with the aftermarket alarm system. Also your vehicle's alternator might be failing. If your first battery died completely and you jumped it prior to replacement the resultant strain on the alternator from charging a dead battery could severly shorten it's lifespan. Oh, and it is possible the new battery is defective, and was from the day you installed it, but is only now failing.

[zengshengliu]

That's all well and good, but you still need to have the entire system checked. My first thought was the fault may lie with the aftermarket alarm system. Also your vehicle's alternator might be failing. If your first battery died completely and you jumped it prior to replacement the resultant strain on the alternator from charging a dead battery could severly shorten it's lifespan. Oh, and it is possible the new battery is defective, and was from the day you installed it, but is only now failing.

At first I thought it was the after market system too, but after disconnecting the power to the entire unit, I still got a measure of about 100mA of power drain, so that why I am confused.
As for the alternator, I am not sure how to tell if it is faulty or not. All I know is that when the car is running and idle, the volt of the battery is around 14v, which I believe is normal when the battery is charging(I googled it lol)

[ImStricken06]

aside form the system what else did you mod/add?

[ImStricken06]

sometimes this is a stuck relay switch somewhere. no issues with your a/c system?

[zengshengliu]

Lights. I changed all my lights to led, but I don't think thats the problem.
Radio, backup camera, radar detector and gps connected to the 12v socket (hardwired) (shouldn't be a problem since this power off when car is off)
For A/C, I haven't check the system yet since its only 60 degree outside
As for relay, I check all the one under the dash and hood, by removing them one at a time ane check the current draw. No effect.

[zengshengliu]

I don't think replacing the fog light with hid will do anything to it right?
Also, I had a problem before with the IPDM which cause the problem with fuel pump and randomly cut the fuel to the engine, which cause the engine to stop. Will it have any affect to cause the problem?

[Rogue One]

At first I thought it was the after market system too, but after disconnecting the power to the entire unit, I still got a measure of about 100mA of power drain, so that why I am confused.

As for the alternator, I am not sure how to tell if it is faulty or not. All I know is that when the car is running and idle, the volt of the battery is around 14v, which I believe is normal when the battery is charging(I googled it lol)

Some places charge you for testing your car, but at AutoZone, it's free. We can test your car's battery, alternator*, starter* and voltage regulator* while they're still on your car. We can also give your car a complete starting and charging systems test. (* Service not available in CA)

[zengshengliu]

Some places charge you for testing your car, but at AutoZone, it's free. We can test your car's battery, alternator*, starter* and voltage regulator* while they're still on your car. We can also give your car a complete starting and charging systems test. (* Service not available in CA)

Got it checked. They say there is no problem with any of them.
Any other idea of possible solution?
I am not good at looking at the wire diagram, if anyone have time, can you please take a look at it and see what are connected to the two fuses I posted earlier? Maybe something wrong with it
(or if someone have time, maybe they can test on their Rogue with the fuses pulled one by one and test the voltage and see if the number is similar or different than mine.

[rickrogue]

Some places charge you for testing your car, but at AutoZone, it's free. We can test your car's battery, alternator*, starter* and voltage regulator* while they're still on your car. We can also give your car a complete starting and charging systems test. (* Service not available in CA)

Got it checked. They say there is no problem with any of them.
Any other idea of possible solution?
I am not good at looking at the wire diagram, if anyone have time, can you please take a look at it and see what are connected to the two fuses I posted earlier? Maybe something wrong with it
(or if someone have time, maybe they can test on their Rogue with the fuses pulled one by one and test the voltage and see if the number is similar or different than mine.

did you try unplugging the connector one by one from RAD FAN 1 & 2 , ignition switch , 4 power window switches and see what happen???

[zengshengliu]

did you try unplugging the connector one by one from RAD FAN 1 & 2 , ignition switch , 4 power window switches and see what happen???

Sorry I am not that knowledge about cars. Can you tell me where each switch are located? (or pages to the service manual) Thanks

[zengshengliu]

So today, after parking for only 2 days, my car "Almost" won't start
When I try to start the engine, at first, the car was silence for like a second (sound like battery die), but then it cranks slowly, and maybe after like 2 seconds, it started.
After the engine started, the rpm meter stay at 0 for like 5 seconds before it jump back to normal, and the awd light is on until I turn off the car

Then I drive for like 2 miles to get to the gas station and turn off the car. After I am done, when I start the car, it start just fine (maybe crank a little bit slower but its within normal range)

I don't know if I might cause any damage to the car. I hope someone can point me to the right direction.

[rickrogue]

im gonna be straight on you.. go seek help from a professional mechanic. as you said "you dont have knowledge on cars" I've been pointing you on the right direction but you cant perform the test. if you dont know where to look and test those system how can we point you on the right direction.." RAD 1 & 2, IGN switch, 4 power Window switches" one of those are giving you some draw. and yes your battery is weak at this point due to multiple battery draining and charging cycles

[rdub2k4]

Been following this thread. Any updates?

Tracking down battery draws is such a pain, I don't do it anymore :\

[zengshengliu]

I am going to check the windows switches later this week when I am not using the car
If that doesn't help, I will try disconnecting the radiator fan (do we have one or two? I know I have a AWD so I have two radiators but I think there is only one fan right?)
As for ign switch, I don't know how to check that

[zengshengliu]

I finally got a chance to do the test
I can definitely conclude that the source of the problem is with the IGN switch. I disconnected the fuse and the AMP drop to 10-20mA. Tested the rad fan 1 and 2 by disconnected the connector, no difference. So the problem is somewhere with the IGN switch or the line. The problem is, I am not sure how to check the IGN switch

[ImStricken06]

are you sure you are turning the car off, when you twist that little nub? sometimes mine feels like its completely all the way in the off position - but its not. which will cause battery drain.

[zengshengliu]

Yes it is off.
With my alarm system, there is a remote start.
Is it possible that faulty wiring cause the power drain?
Power draw when car is off for ~20 minutes: 60mA
Power draw when car is off for ~20 minutes plus ign, rad fan 1&2 fuse removed: ~15mA

[ImStricken06]

Yes it is off.
With my alarm system, there is a remote start.
Is it possible that faulty wiring cause the power drain?

ABSOLUTELY!!! id start there.

[zengshengliu]

Yes it is off.
With my alarm system, there is a remote start.
Is it possible that faulty wiring cause the power drain?

ABSOLUTELY!!! id start there.

Yesterday I pull out all the wires on the alarm system. It is a mess so I guess I will bring it to a store to check it.

[zengshengliu]

Got it check. The shop said it is normal draw.
They said it is possible that since I am doing 20-30 minutes trips, 30% highway, 70% local, chances are the battery was never fully charged each time.
So when I park the car for a week or so, the battery die.
They recommend me to change the battery to optima red-top for quick charge

Any opinion on that?

[ImStricken06]

Got it check. The shop said it is normal draw.
They said it is possible that since I am doing 20-30 minutes trips, 30% highway, 70% local, chances are the battery was never fully charged each time.
So when I park the car for a week or so, the battery die.
They recommend me to change the battery to optima red-top for quick charge

Any opinion on that?

yes short trips will not recharge your battery enough, but 20-30 mins should be enough. 20-30 mins of actual driving correct??

id just get a battery tender for your car. a new battery wont help.

[zengshengliu]

Well, 20-30 minutes including traffic and lights, so probably 15 minutes actual driving, 2 times a day, weekday

[coopab]

The first thing I would do is check to see that the battery connections are not corroded. New battery or not, corroded terminals will create electrical issues. If your connections are fine, have a mechanic inspect your alternator and battery. If the alternator and battery are fine, then consider inspecting your vehicle for relay(s) that are working improperly. It can even be a burnt out map light bulb that is in the ON position, but you cannot tell the difference if the bulb is dead....

If the bulb is "dead"? as in burnt out the circuit is open, hence no draw whether the switch is in the on position or not.