Need help on Brake problem 2000 Q45

[yellow1342]

Just bought 2000 anniversary Edition Q45, 75k miles but problem on brake.it was working great and smoothly if apply brake under speed 40 mile/hour but if it's over 50 and brake a little harder then the steering wheel vibrates badly the harder you brake the more it vibrates.

any way to fix or what was the problem? pad? or router? how much will it cost?

thanks

[elwesso]

definitely the rotors... You can either have them turned or just get new rotors.

I suppose it could also be a balljoint somewhere like in the lower control arm or tie rod end. Id start with having the rotors turned if theyre not too worn.

[oldmako]

I'll be doing my brakes fairly soon as they are getting thin. Any recs on replacement rotors and pads?

[bullittandy]

Stock is the best for both rotors and pads. If you want aftermarket drilled/slotted rotors then you have to spend big bucks on high quality ones, the ones on ebay sucked for me.

Stock pads are quiet, work in the cold but make alot of dust. Maybe Hawk pads would be an acceptable alternative if you want more fade resistance. They are quiet on my Mustang but are soft when cold.

[Q45tech]

Oem dealer pads for sure, however Centric makes a $75 premium rotor which is near oem quality. The rotor has a black hat and unlike the cheaper $30 version will actually survive and nearly approach oem warp intervals.

http://www.centricparts.com/prod02.htm

Be careful there is a lot on junk rotors available drilled and slotted, the quality of the cast iron is the main differentiator.

[maxnix]

I really like the drillled Stillen Brembo rotors that Joe has on special occasionally.

Seem to last at least 2 - 3 times as long as stock between turnings. Still waiting for some sign of imperfection after 40K.

OEM pads for sure, unless you drive in mountains or autocross.
Modified by maxnix at 4:45 PM 12/27/2007

[oldmako]

I figured the ebay specials were too good to be true. Thanks for the advice on the pads. My rotors look still appear thick (although I have not miked them) and only display minimal warpage (very faint pulsation under abrupt, high energy stopping). Hopefully they can be turned.

When my car was on the lift for tires I had an opportunity to check out the pads and they are down to about 1/8 inch, so the time is near. I may take the opportunity to replace the wheel bearings at that time.

As for style of driving, this is my "go to work" car. 200 miles on interstate roads one way, avg speed 77-78, faster when I think I can get away with it.

[bullittandy]

You'll reconsider replacing those wheel bearings when you get a price.

I replaced one a while back thinking it was bad and was shocked by the price ($120) as well as the labor involved (needed a press). I thought it was gonna be a easy job like every other wheel bearing I've replaced-but no.

[burgy240]

Doesn't anyone else use Akibono pads? At least I used those on my S14.5 with Q brakes. I just bought a 2000AE as well and I assumed that they would be the pads I would upgrade to soon as well???

Any feedback on this idea people? Thanks