Need help, KA24DE won't time correctly.

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IAMTheRuckus
Posts: 90
Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 9:59 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240sx

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Okay so I finally got to the end of my wiring harness and I have two plugs that I can't figure out where they go. Then on the Dash Harness I have a few wires that have been cut. The wires seem to all have the same colors as the brown plug at the end of my harness that my ecu plugs in to. If someone could just point me in the right direction that would be tremendous because I'm not sure what wires are supposed to go where or what. Also, I picked up a DOHC MAFS from the local salvage yard and the plug on my harness was a 4 prong while the MAFS has a 3 prong connection... I'm so lost. I've tried searching for days upon days to no avail.

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The two plugs I'm not sure what they go to.

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Cut off group of wires on Dash Harness

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Here's what's behind my passenger kick panel. An ECU and a door lock timer. and the suspect plugs.

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And the MAFS with the awkward pigtail.
Last edited by IAMTheRuckus on Fri Sep 06, 2013 5:29 am, edited 1 time in total.


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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

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Just to get some extra info; are you putting a new motor into the chassis? What motor did the chassis have before? Because looking at the wire colors I see cut at the dash plug, it looks like someone had done an SR or CA on this car. Either that, or someone hacked into the harness to put in an alarm or a keyless entry unit. You list your car as a 90 but you landed a DOHC MAF. If you still have the single slammer, you need a MAF from a single cam motor. The dual cam won't work.

The plug at the end of your EFI harness past the ECU plug is commonly referred to as the dash harness plug. It has a few wires on it that transfer some info to the gauges and HVAC control. They should just plug right up. Make sure that the wire colors are matching up between the two and you're golden. As for all the cut wires, I see some splices in your picture, so check to see if the wires weren't cut to add a subharness inline. You might be lucky and only need to re-establish the circuit.

Your best friend is going to be the service manual. I suggest grabbing one from http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM and go to town.

IAMTheRuckus
Posts: 90
Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 9:59 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240sx

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Here's where the confusion starts. My s13 originally started life as a KAD, but when I bought it the guy had tried to stick a 96' KADE in it. It wasn't until I stripped the car I found out that the guy also tried to use the 96' harness to make it work. So I ripped all that crap out and pieced the s13 DE harness back into it, chassis, engine bay, efi, all the harnesses. I've done all the necessary swaps to the intake manifold, dizzy, coil, etc.. To get the 96' KA to work with the S13 harness already and these last few questions are the only things holding me up. I've got printouts of the harness from the FSM but they don't seem to show that white and black plug under my passenger side kick panel. I figured I could just splice the cut wires back to the dash connector but I just wanted to double check and make sure that was correct before proceeding.

I have a new problem now though. I checked my fuse block and my alt fuse was fried, I jumped the metal inside it and it was drawing power even with the car off. I figured out quickly that the wires I had connected to the positive battery terminal were the culprit ( I thought they were charge wires for the alternator). One of them sparks when it's touched to the positive and the other does not. They both have ring terminals on the ends and look like they went to the same place and both originate from the fuse block. Could I have my alternator wiring backwards? Do these go to the alternator instead?

IAMTheRuckus
Posts: 90
Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 9:59 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240sx

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These are the ring terminal wires coming out of the fuse block.

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IAMTheRuckus
Posts: 90
Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 9:59 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240sx

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Okay, so finally I figured the wires out the other day and had it running for a while but it was running really rough, backfiring, and rich as hell. So I figured it needed timing adjusted. I pulled the plug out of the #1 cylinder and put the boot back in, bumped the starter until it flew out, put a ratchet extension in the cylinder and turned the crank to TDC, pulled the dizzy out, set the rotor at #1 plug wire (gave some leeway for the helical gear to turn), put it all back together and now it doesn't crank at all... Did I miss something? Any ideas? From what I've gathered around the forums ,that is the procedure everyone lists for setting up the timing. I mean, I could be a tooth or two off on the dizzy but it should still run right?

IAMTheRuckus
Posts: 90
Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 9:59 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240sx

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Double posted, sorry.
Last edited by IAMTheRuckus on Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

IAMTheRuckus
Posts: 90
Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 9:59 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240sx

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I'm going to post everything I've figured out so far from trial and error in the off chance that someone stumbles across this topic having the same problems.

The wires on the back of my MAF plug would slide back in the connector when I plugged it in, I'm guessing it's just worn out, by pushing them in and making the proper connection it helped tremendously. I have also added an extra ground to the existing ground wire on the MAF connector.

I have also bled my coolant lines which also slightly seemed to help. Make sure you flush your system as well because I had a good bit of junk in mine. I'm suspecting this can tamper with the coolant temp sensor that the ECU reads and it can cause it to run rather rich. I'll be picking up a new coolant temp sensor tonight as well just because I like things to be new. Check this if you are putting in a different motor that may have been sitting for a while.

I also cleaned my IACV (idle air control valve) and made sure the little plungers inside moved as they are supposed to.

I've reset my TPS (throttle position sensor) also and adjusted the idle at the IACV.

I've replaced my spark plugs too because they were so fouled up that it wouldn't crank. (hence my earlier problem after setting timing).

And lastly I replaced the O2 sensor because it was also fouled up.

Apparently whoever had this motor before probably got rid of the car because it was running so rich, hence the fouled plugs and 02 sensor.

I'm also going to be adding new ground wires from various places to the frame and chassis as this was another problem I was evidently having.

I'll keep this updated as I go until I have her purring like a kitten so that it may help someone who has the same problems.


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