Need help in Replacing '91 Bose/speakers audio sys.

[bruce2]

Sorry to ask questions that should have been asked 10 yrs ago. I did a few hrs of search but can't spot all the answers.

I am looking to replacing the Bose head and speakers altogether (no additional amps), because at least one speaker amp went(low volume and popping), rear speaker sounds broken with age, and Sony CD changer hanged up. Though the car came with a service manual but not detail enough for getting to the speakers. The audio schematic needs lots of studying.

1. So questions for now, are the speaker amps attached to the speakers?
2. How easy to isolate two wires for new speaker wires? Seems like there are lots of other wires.
3. Do I need to completely remove the door panel to access the speakers or just removing the grills?
4. To access the rear speakers, do I need to remove the backseats (how?) so I can remove the rear panel? or just remove the speaker grill?

I have been using Crutchfield for answers, but on the speaker size, it keep saying 6.5" for both front and rear doors. To me the front may be correct as suggested (would it fit a 6"x9"?), but I don't think I have any on the rear doors and the ones behind the backseat are oval and can't tell what size from the bottom. So what size speaker would fit that opening?

Also Crutchfield also mentioned that I need a head mounting bracket from infiniti, do I really need one?

I really like to get as much parts needed as I can before taking everything apart.

Thanks again for your helps.

[Q451990]

1. So questions for now, are the speaker amps attached to the speakers?

Yes... they are all one assembly.

2. How easy to isolate two wires for new speaker wires? Seems like there are lots of other wires.

They are color coded in the service manual. Keep in mind that the factory wires were only carrying pre-amplified (nearly line level) audio to each individual amplifier, so they are going to be a smaller gauge than you'll likely need for normal speakers that are amplified from the head unit.

3. Do I need to completely remove the door panel to access the speakers or just removing the grills?

4. To access the rear speakers, do I need to remove the backseats (how?) so I can remove the rear panel? or just remove the speaker grill?

You need to remove the door panels and rear deck cladding. Check out the links at the bottom of this page for step by step instructions.

http://www.carstereohelp.com/strinfiniti.htm

Good luck!

Heath

[bruce2]

Thanks for the link. The job seems doable, just take some time.

So, looks like 6.5" for the front and 6x9" for the rear.

I will next concentrate on the wiring diagram in the manual.

I have never deal with one this complicated before, I'll appreciate for the heads ups.

[SanCarlosQ45]

No they are 4" for the fronts and 6x9's in the rear. Its too bad you dont have a 94-96 because they have tweeters in the a-pillers. You can get 4" 2-way speakers but they are going to sound mediocre. For the rears I would look Infinity kappa 3-ways, they are one of the best 6x9's out there.

Check out woofersetc or online car stereo.

[bruce2]

Your are right. I pulled out the grill today and immediately got a head ache because the 6.5" and 6x9" are on their way. I am going to see if I can mod it in anyway to make it fit when they arrived.

I had good experience with Infinity Kappa years ago, very good quality; but instead I will give some lower budget Alpine SPS 600 and 619 a try. The head unit is a Pioneer DEH4300UB. Not planing to add amps but will run the wires for just in case. Didn't plan to spend a lot, plus I am kind of old for big sounds, but I am looking at a 2 ohm sub for a tiny extra on the base.

[bruce2]

Do I need an antenna adapter? Is this the right one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Radio-Stereo-An ... e8&vxp=mtr

[OwnerCS]

Your are right. I pulled out the grill today and immediately got a head ache because the 6.5" and 6x9" are on their way. I am going to see if I can mod it in anyway to make it fit when they arrived.

I had good experience with Infinity Kappa years ago, very good quality; but instead I will give some lower budget Alpine SPS 600 and 619 a try. The head unit is a Pioneer DEH4300UB. Not planing to add amps but will run the wires for just in case. Didn't plan to spend a lot, plus I am kind of old for big sounds, but I am looking at a 2 ohm sub for a tiny extra on the base.

Let us know how the 2 ohm sub works out and some pictures if possible. I've still got the stock setup that is working fine though I would like more bass if I can figure out how to mount a sub without damaging the interior.

[bruce2]

I am still in the planing stage and in the process getting all the parts. I was going to use the rear channel from the new unit to run two 2 ohm subs or one 4 ohm sub. In this way the rear channels would be omitted which only good for trucks but for cars is no way acceptable. So I have decided using, already ordered, a 4 ohm 10" sub and a small mono amp for the trunk. I will custom build an enclosed to hide it away in some way. I will post pic and result. Will take a while because this seems a big job.

Many folks here recommended in the past adding an Infinity Basslink to the original unit with great success and seems like a shortcut. You may like to take a look into it and.

I have a question, the Pioneer head unit has only one amp turn on (blue) and the same wire for power antenna. So do I connect both to it? The answer I just found is yes, but I will splice the antenna wire with a switch to manually switch it up when listening to AM.

[bruce2]

Still on this project, wish I have more time to get with it.

Now I have a question, for better sound not for loudness, I am thinking of getting a 75w(rms) x 4(4 ohm) in additional to a 150w(rms)mono for the sub(4 ohm). I figure if I am correct there appears to be I=W/V=450/12=37.5 amps. Though I don't think I would ever even close to max it out, is it too much for my alternator to handle?

[Q451990]

I would look at the owner's manual for the amps to see what fuse size they call for. I'm not sure audio rated watts work that way...

Doesn't sound like an obscene amount of amplification though.

Heath

[bruce2]

Update on slow progress.

Got all the parts, just need time. Had a little health glitch which really slow things down.
Test fit on the door speaker mod which clears of the window glass and fits perfectly.

Done with the 4" Morels which didn't look good





because I am used to this: lol



This is best I can do with these 6.5" Alpine SPR 17C's






Here is the health glitch with before and after stent insertion. I thought I was immortal. lol

after


Other things done is all wiring for the new head unit.
Until next time. Thank you.

[OwnerCS]

Glad you are doing better. Where in MS are you located? I get over to Lula once in a while..

[bruce2]

Thanks.

Indianola, about a hundred miles directly south of Lula.

[Q451990]

Nice work - both on the speakers and the health issue!

Heath

[bruce2]

Got some 0 gauge cable ready to do the big 3 mod. Guess what, after removing the bottom shield I can hardly even see the alternator. I think this would have been the hardest big three you can do in the world. I immediately put the shield back and decided what ever gauge already there is good enough. If I have to, I would just rather turn on my sub amp on special occasion such as when the kids ride with me so they would think I am cool. Lol Anyway, I might just do the big 2 instead when I am not so discouraged.

Have a good weekend.

[bbdaines]

I wish I had seen your pics earlier.. But my way looks like it will work well. I bought 6x9s and ground the edges to fit in the hard plastic edges of the door panel and screwed it in.. Looks and feels solid. The stereo has not arrived so I don't know how it sounds yet!

I am wondering if I need to rewire the speakers since I am just going with a JVC stereo with no amps? There are 4 wires in the plug, I assume 2 are for power for the mini amps, but they are of a heavier gauge could I use them?

I busted the door handle bezel on the drivers side, I really wish manufacturers would just put s screw in so it would come out without breaking!

[bruce2]

bbdaines, mounting the speaker on the the door cover may not be a very good idea because it may be too much vibration and resonance which may affect the sound quality . But who knows until you try it.

Anyway, I use the original wires too; they seem to be very good quality 16 gauge wire which is way bigger then the wires coming out of my Pioneer head unit. So regardless, for such short run of wire I believe it is more than ok.

There is enough space for a 6"x9" mounting on a baffle like the one I made but you may need to tilt it in an angle.

Speaking of frustration, I had broken the plastic by the mirror where the door cover hooked onto. I repaired it with a piece of metal strap.

Please post back to let us know how it turns out.

Post some pix if you don't mind; really interested in how is your speaker mounting look.

[bbdaines]

I will post pics later..

I got the wiring harness, of course it is the wrong one.. for Nissan stock, not bose and I can't find one. I can't image that there is not a wiring code published but nothing is coming up on a search..

This is a nightmare, the wiring is a mess.. have idea how this cuts in...

[bruce2]

Here is the color code, top one, I used. I have verified the pin out with the manual and the wiring in the car.

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Nissan-Wiring.asp

And here is the harness connector. I am pretty sure this is the one. I go one from the big W store which costs way more.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300788660560?ss ... 1423.l2649

If this is the same one you got that didn't work, I got one came out of my car originally spliced for the CD changer that you can have. pm me if you need it. Oops, I just checked and I just have half, the big piece of the two. Sorry.

[bbdaines]

I did a google search and found the wiring diagram you posted, it is not my car?? fortunately the same google search pulled up someone who had the same wiring as mine and had been kind enough to post it.. what an ordeal... I went ahead and did it the old fashioned way and spliced in...

The search feature on NICO is not working.. I got all the info from NICO but it pulled from google search.

I have it all installed except the rear speakers, pulled the old ones but the new have not arrived. I am not an audiophile by any means, but it sounds better, a lot better with just the 2 6x9s in the front that the old system did with all 4..

[bruce2]

Glad to hear good result. Can't wait to get mine done.

[bbdaines]

Have you actually checked the wiring.. Mine was not what the service manual said it should be, nor was it what was being sold as the Bose plug on the net.. Maybe mine is an odd ball, but someone else had it too..

and I added the pic of the speaker mount .

http://www.q45.org/gallery/gallery3/ind ... aines-91-Q

[bbdaines]

I found the thread that had the color coding.. this thread also has the link you provided that does not match my wiring harness..

The Power is correct on the install doctor.. the yellow in E is the constant, and the .... I think .. red and black just below it in H is the antenna.

[bruce2]

The speakers looks pretty sturdy. Nice to see a low mileage Q...

Look back to my notes there are different color on the wires which I have forgotten since it was done a couple months ago. lol
Difference is that as an example the RF speaker (+) is white/green instead of brown as shown on the color code I pulled which I have to find out one by one. Thanks for the concern; the brain is surely moving slowly sometime.