Need Help...Here Are ALL The Symptoms

[rico05]

When cold:-Give it more than 25% throttle, it bucks, kicks, and sounds like crap (does this no matter where in the rev range, not jsut down low but seems to be less over 4k RPM)-Will revv all the way to redline as long as not pushed hard-Boosts fine-Idle pops and hunts

When Warm (read Driven under load through the gears a few times, not just warmed up)-Idle hunts-Revvs fine-Can hammer it anytime-Runs great

Ok, checked vac lines a billion times. Sprayed carb cleaner all over (went through a whole can of the stuff) Tightened every IC clamp several times. No worries there I think. ECU reads Code 55 (everything is a ok) The only mods are K&N air filter and boost gauge. The only "issue" is no exhaust after O2 sensor housing. I assume the motor is internally fine since it revvs fine and I raced a buddy w/ an SR on the highway (he had FMIC, 3" turbo back and Profec-b set at 9psi, I am running 8.5psi) and we were dead even. Any ideas?

[F3600]

my car does the same when cold but at a much lower level...i can feel it jerk but i just take it slow when its cold.. doesnt need to rush it.. hehe well im pretty sure ists my crappy intercooler setup...

the idle hunt is probably the fuel regulator that is shot ..install yourself a nice adjustable one your idle will thank you

[rico05]

Is it an immediate need? Like can it wait for a few more weeks? Here when I get my loan check it is gonna be:-Spec Stage 2-NUR Spec cat back-Nismo FPR-ARC BOV and SMIC-HT hot pipeAnd hopefully a lot happier car!

Anyway I can check the FPR? I suppose I need a gauge or something? I guess I need to get a gauge or something...

[Nismo1182]

Mine did that when it was cold.

[USDM_OneVia]

Welcome to the crappy cold idle club... member since June 03.

Joe

[GotBoost4Yall]

mine does the same........

[WeldingHank]

not having an exhaust after your O2 sensor allows the sensor to stay colder, longer. when it is cold it doesn't get a proper reading for the ECU. i think that may be your problem. when the ECU isn't getting a good reading it just goes rich, and can make you pop and jerk down the street.

[BoroBoroS13]

Same problem here

[fanta]

Check for intake and exhaust ( :p ) leaks. What fuel pump are you using?

[rico05]

Walbro 255lph.

Well if we all have this problem then it is all good. I am cool with it then. Good trade off I guess. I just need to invest in a remote start then.

Another thing, it is kinda funny that you can actually hear the car when it is "ready". The other night, I was letting it warm at a friend's house and we were outside beside it chatting. Suddenly, the idle smoothed, the tone changed, the popping stopped and he looked at me and said "Sounds done";)

[r34 gtr]

haha, awesome. mine used to do that but i changed the o2 sensor and messed with some wires and now it just has a bit of a wandering idle problem. sometimes its at 1400, sometimes 750, and everywhere inbetween, but it holds steady at whatever it sets it at.

with all the stuff on the car, am i going to need a nismo fpr or something? i cant afford it but i will get one if i need it. im thinking the car will be pushing in the upper 200s with the stuff ive got.

- tim

[Trigger]

i had that same problem i just let it set at idle for about 10 minutes every time i was going to drive it and when i was ready to go it was all warmed up and really to go. giving it a nice warmup time is also good so the oil will have time to heatup and thin a little. that will help you not blow a head gasket as soon. will also let your turbo warm up and not just be put into narmal driving..might save the turbos life a little....not sure on that one but it sounds good atleast lol

Tim

[rico05]

Yeah, I think all of the ECU issues I was having as well as the boost leak may have jacked my 02 sensor. May need to get a new one of those too.