Need help from experienced mechanic

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
skyline084
Posts: 471
Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:23 pm

Post

I have an rb25, and would like someone to help me diagnose the problem with it.


Krazykouki
Posts: 181
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 5:37 pm

Post

What the problem?

skyline084
Posts: 471
Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:23 pm

Post

Here's how the problem occurred, which started a week ago
First time I noticed it, it just stalled. But than fired up and ran perfect.
Next it would hesitate, backfire and stall. Start up and run fine.
Than it started to do it a couple times a day.
Now it won't even start and keep an idle, it turns over and will fire but die instantly.

The motor ran good for months and this just came out of no where, and within a week, about 3 or 4 days of driving, it's done.

Replaced the MAF and did nothing.
I'm gonna use the service manual to check voltage/continuity on CAS, MAF, coilpacks..
The fuel pump primes, car fires up, but this problem just took control.. so any advice on what to check will be appreciated.

Krazykouki
Posts: 181
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 5:37 pm

Post

Is the ecu throwing any codes?

skyline084
Posts: 471
Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:23 pm

Post

It's giving code 54. which is to check A/T circuit to ecu. Which is weird b.c mine is a manual.

Krazykouki
Posts: 181
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 5:37 pm

Post

Take the CAS out but leave it plugged in...turn it while the ignition switch is on and see if you can hear the injectors firing.

Also, make sure your engine has a good ground.

TheRBguy
Posts: 148
Joined: Tue Dec 07, 2010 11:15 am
Car: S13 240sx Rb25det swapped

Post

Definately sounds like either a bad sensor or a power or grounding issue somewhere.

skyline084
Posts: 471
Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:23 pm

Post

Okay, I have a couple solid grounds right off the block to the frame, but I'll check all grounds as well. I cut the stock water temp sensor and just taped it off b.c I'm using the aftermarket one now. Could that be affecting anything?
one problem with taking the cas out and spinning it.. how do i get it back to its original position?

Krazykouki
Posts: 181
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 5:37 pm

Post

skyline084 wrote:Okay, I have a couple solid grounds right off the block to the frame, but I'll check all grounds as well. I cut the stock water temp sensor and just taped it off b.c I'm using the aftermarket one now. Could that be affecting anything?
one problem with taking the cas out and spinning it.. how do i get it back to its original position?
Did you cut the 2 wire coolant sensor? If you cut the one with 2 wires, that will have a bad effect on the running condition.

To get the CAS back to the original position you would have to use a timing light.

skyline084
Posts: 471
Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:23 pm

Post

na i cut the one thin blue wire for the stock temp.
Does the CAS reset every 360 degrees? so would I be able to just make a mark on the CAS (say 12 oclock) than just spin it back to that mark when I'm finished?

julio
Posts: 374
Joined: Fri Oct 06, 2006 1:18 pm
Car: RB26 AWD converted S14

Post

TheRBguy wrote:Definately sounds like either a bad sensor or a power or grounding issue somewhere.
+1, intermittent issues usually are.

skyline084
Posts: 471
Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:23 pm

Post

okay , so check cas, maf... igniter and coil should be fine though because it fires up.. right?

skyline084
Posts: 471
Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:23 pm

Post

I checked all 4 wires for voltage on CAS connector. No voltage. I have continuity between the two blue wires though.

skyline084
Posts: 471
Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:23 pm

Post

Okay, found out that my EGI fuse went bad. Now, do the blue and green relays have different amp rage?

User avatar
Carl H
Posts: 5985
Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2003 4:09 am
Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

Post

eh, across the terminals there is about a 10ohm difference iirc with the relays... I've used them interchangeably tho.
Typically an egi fuse being blown will cause this problem like you found, replacing them seems to be the fix.
Occasionally the power draw will spike and blow the fuse, seen it on a few cars now.

skyline084
Posts: 471
Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:23 pm

Post

I put a blue relay in place of egi and thought it fixed it because the car started good and idled. Until I gave it gas, then it bogged out and died.

Krazykouki
Posts: 181
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 5:37 pm

Post

Has the ECU ever been modified?

skyline084
Posts: 471
Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:23 pm

Post

I haven't done anything to it since I've had it, I don't know about previous owner

User avatar
Carl H
Posts: 5985
Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2003 4:09 am
Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

Post

have you pulled codes from the ecu (assuming that wiring is proper and it will allow for code storage)?

skyline084
Posts: 471
Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:23 pm

Post

It was throwing code 54. (A/T circuit to ECU) Weird b.c I have a manual..
The ECU has also thrown other codes in the past, but I resolved them.
I'm pretty sure all the wiring was done right, don't forget the car ran for months with out a problem, than all of a sudden this stalling issue occurs. 4 days of driving later, bam, problem took over. Car won't even stay at idle.
Than replaced EGI, car fires right up and idles for ten minutes until I give it heavy gas, it hesitates than stalls again.
Now I'm back to square one

skyline084
Posts: 471
Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:23 pm

Post

can someone with a s13 240 check something fast for me?
If you can..
On the EGI relay(GREEN one on left) Can you check if you get full 12v at #2 , and #3 on Relay Terminal.
Thanks


Return to “RB20DET / RB25DET / RB26DETT Forum”