Just wrapped up installing a remain maf sensor. Mine started acting up badly just the other day after cleaning it. Or at-least that's what I've been lead to believe it is because my 97 Maxima had a similar issue for weeks that even after taking to 3 shops, never traced it to the maf sensor.

Basically it's like hesitating under initial acceleration. I went with a reman from autozone unit for now because I'm away from home and only place in stock today. It seemed to be working intiially but then a couple of times pulling away from stop lights, it felt sluggish again.

Only codes I'm getting are P0161 and P0141 both heated oxygen sensors. Before the maf change, I tried to go up a steep hill from 5 mph and was literally flooring it and it would barely move.

This issue been going on intermittent since May. It got even worse after this weekend when I cleaned the MAF (was unplugged) and changed my charcoal canister (brought new from a Maxima model because I was getting purge flow valve code, and the infiniti and similar placed charcoal canister is $200 even at the stores. which is fixed now but idk.

So yah, question: does it take awhile for the maf to catch up to the computer? Shouldn't I get a MAF code (my Maxima didn't always give codes for it, but I caught it once. It was so bad, it would stall when stopped at lights several times throughout the day). So that's why I rushed to buy the MAF.

Update: issue solved. Drove around today and traveled over 100 miles and didn’t feel any hesitation or drag so must have needed overnight for the ECU to recognize it. RELIEF! I did not want to have to play musical chairs by installing a new one instead thinking the reman was defective.

That said, I’m convinced the Maf sensor cleaner I used ruined both my Maxima and Qs (they both use the same MAF assembly) I used it once or twice before on the Q without any immediate issues. But idk, maybe for worn sensors it’s a bad idea. I just know that I immediately had symptoms of a bad MAF when drove the day after using the cleaner.

I think its a good idea whenever you change a MAF to unplug the battery for a few hours. Reconnect and let the car idle for 10-15 minutes followed by a light drive (no WOT) at first.

Ludeaem wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 28, 2021 3:35 pm

I think its a good idea whenever you change a MAF to unplug the battery for a few hours. Reconnect and let the car idle for 10-15 minutes followed by a light drive (no WOT) at first.

I see. Maybe I should try that. Does it just allow the computer to just do a full reset? Perhaps it’ll help clear my ever-blinking airbag light. (I seen the article posted on the website, but still no real clues without an airbag scan tool).

As a follow up: I noticed again yesterday a couple of times, the engine felt like it didn’t want to go when pulling off from a stop. I really hope the one I brought isn’t crap. The MAF sensor isn’t a hard part to change, but in 95 degrees heat, on top of a warmed up engine…it wasn’t “easy” either.

If I get to the bottom of these 2 oxygen sensor codes, I’ll officially have no check engine light codes. I had already repaired the wiring on 1…but I may have to pull them and physically clean them up. I think it’s causing the Q to be not be as fast as it could, and I’m definitely sucking down gas like nothing…but I think has more to do with having to run the A/C more, and the fan clutch stays engaged until I hit highway speeds.

Update: did the battery unplug thing. Seems to have worked. There was maybe 1 instance of hesitation noticed…but idk: so far it made it up a few hills fine so maybe after awhile it’ll fully catch up.

While I was at it, I poured in a bottle of Rislone’s new cat clean converter/oxygen sensor cleaner. At $25 a bottle, Hopefully it’ll clear my oxygen sensor lights. I think that may be playing a part in the sluggishness, though it was on before the Maf issue.

Also need to write to CRC and tell them I feel their product ruined a couple of long running Maf sensors. They say not to use on Lexus or most Mitsubishi’s. But didn’t say anything about Infiniti though.

I purchased my 1st Q, a 91, around 2003. It had a intermittent ground fault on the MAF connector. On advice from this forum I was told to add an additional ground to that wire. It worked flawlessly. I couldn't imagine the MAF cleaner being the source of a failure, but anything is possible. Ive used that same can for years.

I wouldn't purchase anything from Zone, period, but definitely anything electronic. OE, SMP Intermotor, Hitachi, Beck/Arnley or Denso, please.

HeavyDuty wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 07, 2021 4:12 pm

I purchased my 1st Q, a 91, around 2003. It had a intermittent ground fault on the MAF connector. On advice from this forum I was told to add an additional ground to that wire. It worked flawlessly. I couldn't imagine the MAF cleaner being the source of a failure, but anything is possible. Ive used that same can for years.

I wouldn't purchase anything from Zone, period, but definitely anything electronic. OE, SMP Intermotor, Hitachi, Beck/Arnley or Denso, please.

Thanks for the lead. How do you add an additional ground to the wire though? I only suspect the cleaner because my 97 Maxima experienced a similar failing of the MAF after using the cleaner...but it's somewhat blurry as to whether it happened before or after using the product. I had bought a 2 pack throttle body and maf cleaner in the little bottles. I just knew it took weeks and 3 trips to technicians to figure it out why the engine kept stalling every 5 minutes.

As for Autozone: I used to not shop there much either, but now I'm hooked lol. I think they've improved a lot. I brought a reman brake booster from them last year and it's been fine. Their oil change, air filter special is the best on the market. Their MAF sensor was also more readily available than Oreiley who was selling the same brand (BSE electronics). So i had to just go with what was on the shelf right away.

Otherwise yes, if I have time to wait to order...those other brands you mentioned would be my choice. But I can't pay double or triple the online price by going into store, and most times it's special order anyway.

98_Q45 wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 07, 2021 9:38 pm

Thanks for the lead. How do you add an additional ground to the wire though?

Just t-tap or Scotchlok the ground wire someplace near the connector and run an additional wire with a ring terminal straight to the block or chassis.

^ What he said, or solder the additional wire. That, in addition to cleaning or replacing the pigtail and cleaning the MAF plug pins helped in my case, too.

Also, well played on the pun "thanks for the lead". I see what you did there, lol.

HeavyDuty wrote: ↑

Sun Aug 08, 2021 9:02 am

^ What he said, or solder the additional wire. That, in addition to cleaning or replacing the pigtail and cleaning the MAF plug pins helped in my case, too.

Also, well played on the pun "thanks for the lead". I see what you did there, lol.

It was completely unintentional haha.

So: despite installing aftermarket radio head unit and filter myself, I don’t know much about wiring. Is it like a black ground wire that I should cut and link to a bolt and back up to the wire similar to the ground wire on the radio connection?

I don’t want to risk hack jobbing the wire though. I think if it continues to intermittently, I’m going to try a new one from Napa. But that in itself is also too much work.

Yes, a ground with a ring terminal like on your radio harness. The T-Tap or Scotchlock is a clamshell connector that links two wires together. Or, it'd be a very quick job for any technician or electronics person to do for you.

So just following up after driving around yesterday afternoon: last week I had already ordered a waterpump because I was getting belt squeal and caught a grinding noise. But then it dawned on me: I think the issue was never the MAF sensor! I shoulda known the differences were there. It wasn’t dropping idle rpm or stalling out like when my Maxima Maf went bad.

I’m convinced the sluggishness is from the waterpump trying to seize up and being difficult to turn. And yesterday, I was driving in traffic and it would barely move even while gunning it, when pulling away from a stop light. Then I took short a trip down the street after letting it sit for a couple hours and the temp gauge began to overheat.



So will definitely have to report on if it changes the issue. I am pissed about throwing $115 on a new Maf though. But I just didn’t know. It wasn’t until a few days after I changed the Maf and a 300 mile road trip that I heard the waterpump wasn’t engaging the fan and the belt started slipping.

Update: so after pulling the waterpump and fan clutch, my suspicion was off just a little...but close enough. It wasn't the waterpump binding but rather the fan clutch itself. However since I ordered the waterpump I did that too. However, it was making noise so I think the binding clutch wore out the waterpump anyway. Sucks considering I just did all this back in 2019.

I took it for a spin and the squeal is gone, and the failing fan seemed to have really sucked down mpg. However i still picked up an intermittent sluggishness (halfway flooring it doesn't do anything for a few seconds, then it just surges into action) that once again felt like a bad maf sensor. But idk if i want to go that route versus the oxygen sensor codes I'm getting.

This is pissing me off lol. But it does feel better since the fan change. It was not seized, but it would get harder to turn by hand the faster I turned it. Which was the exact point when the belt would slip. Maybe it'll take a few days for the ECU to reset? I just ordered a new scanner today, to read codes. Idk if it'll tell me more. But

Check your idler pulley, and make sure it isn't seized up. It could be the root cause for both problems. It's rare for the fan clutch to go bad. It should have some resistance, when you try to spin it. It's bad if the spin is "notchy" or "stop and go."

You want to change the idler pulley out when doing a belt change, anyway. You can just have a new bearing pressed in, if you're on a budget.

cbird805 wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 14, 2021 5:17 pm

Check your idler pulley, and make sure it isn't seized up. It could be the root cause for both problems. It's rare for the fan clutch to go bad. It should have some resistance, when you try to spin it. It's bad if the spin is "notchy" or "stop and go."

You want to change the idler pulley out when doing a belt change, anyway. You can just have a new bearing pressed in, if you're on a budget.

Hey there,

I hadn't considered that. However the new fan clutch and waterpump fixed the belt squeal. I did feel the clutch (aftermarket) was going bad. When turning by hand, it would get more resistant the faster i turned. Moreso than I recall when i first brought t it. So made sense why when i accelerated, the belt would squeal because it was starting to lock up.

I'm on my 2nd fan clutch. The OEM one failed back in 2019 when it seized and was stuck in engaged position. The waterpump belt broke in the process. That was the job from hell. But i learned finally how to change all 4 belts. And finally understood why the fan fell off and sliced the radiator the first time I tried to change the belt lol. It never dawned on me that I have to tighten the fan bolts BEFORE tightening the belts, in order to properly set it. Now I'm a pro at it lol. The hardest belt to tighten is the waterpump idler. There's barely any room to gauge tension, and the proper way to do it is to use the E clip to hold the bolt, as it's adjusted. But the stupid f*** idler nut will continuously push the c clip out of place and the belt becomes loose.

I kept kept struggling with it for nearly half an hour, until i realized using a pry to hold the bolt while I tightened the idler pulley bolt is the key. And both belts are properly torque to only flex about 1/8 to 1/4 inch with my thumb. I usually end up with under tightened belts that squeal at startup, but this time I went OCD with it.

So now there's no more belt squeal, but sadly the *suspected issue of MAF sensor is still there. It doesn't happen right away, but I get the engine hot and running. It'll do nothing when trying to accelerate, then surge into 2,000 rpm. I'm suspecting crappy reman MAF, but the codes are only saying oxygen sensors. This is most frustrating. Kill me lol. J/k

Update again lol,

Issue seems to be gradually disappearing. Still does it here and there but not often enough to worry about it too much. Considering quotes for oxygen sensor work seem to run into the $600-$700 range, I’m not in a hurry to do it. I think the engine is adjusting to not having so much draw from the seizing clutch.

That said, I’ve got an upcoming road trip and trying to find an available mechanic anywhere in the state of Missouri has become an issue all on its own. Drove shop to shop and couldn’t find anyone to even look at them. Exactly why I do majority of my own repairs unless it involves wheels, brakes or power steering.

I think this guy is in Missouri: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHZ1SVBAImI
He seems to like Q45s.

Edit: He may be in Kansas. My mistake.

placer wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 23, 2021 6:19 am

I think this guy is in Missouri: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHZ1SVBAImI
He seems to like Q45s.

Edit: He may be in Kansas. My mistake.

Thanks for the share. I didn’t watch the whole thing yet but it’s certainly an amusing video it seems. Though he seems a bit clueless about the car itself, however that doesn’t mean he’s not capable of working on it. My small town mechanics work on a lot of trucks, so the Q45 isn’t too foreign for them considering it shares a lot of truck attributes.

However, I would have to stop and tell him; the Q45 did NOT compete with Cadillac lol. If you look at the Mercedes and BMW engines of similar years, the Q45s were actually going after that…with a little hint of Rolls Royce Silver spur on the quarter panel area. The i30 was more Cadillac. The Q45 was the v8 S500 Mercedes lol.

Anyhow, another update: the issue seems to be cured!! But this is very weird how it happened: so I cleaned the eVap lines of charcoal again from the old canister. Even though I blew out a lot the first time, there was still more left somehow, and it clogged right back up, though it didn’t trigger a purge valve code like it was before. This time, I spent $30 on a plug-in tire inflator, so I could really have time to play with it, versus using the timed gas station pumps.

I put the air hose on the back of the purge line behind the tire, and the engine. The gas station tire pumps are too high pressure and it would keep blowing back out due to the carbon clog.

After that, I drove on the highway for 30 miles. It was still hesitating, pretty bad. Even on the Highway, I was feeling it. I pull off to get gas, and the temperature gauge starts going up! I fill the tank with premium, and when I return to start the engine, the temperature gauge was heading towards H while the engine was off. I’ve already replaced fan, radiator, thermostat and water pump, so I’m pissed. Even though it was 100 degrees out.

I pulled out my phone to scan codes: EGR and knock sensor code got triggered. Cleared the codes. Since then, I’ve driven 800 miles with no issues. No hesitation, no overheating, no extra codes. Only codes showing are the same oxygen sensor codes that have always been there.

So I don’t know, maybe cleaning the evap lines made it to where I really do have to put premium in now. It was without flow for who knows how long. The overheating part puzzles me, no leaking coolant, though there might be a head gasket issue

Update: I've officially ruled out (at the advice of my mechanic) that it was water getting into my fuel causing it (no surprise considering water puddles around my gas cap after heavy rains) Some heet water remover got rid of the issue. Definitely going to keep a bottle of that on hand. Made sense considering the issue would mainly manifest itself during less than 1/4-1/2 tank fuel levels.