NEED HELP!! Car is Broken!

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Kenrik
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Infiniti G35 Coupe
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Ok so I was driving home from work today and I felt the car was idling rough (the check engine light came on this morning). Then I noticed that if I pressed the gas it would not seem to accelerate until 2800 - 3000 rpm.. Once I got in that area it would jump and start to feel normal. Anything below that when accelerating I would feel it rough.. it would seem to alternate between having power and not.

On the highway I would be driving at 60 or so and floor it and nothing would happen.. a second later it would lurch and take off.

I tried putting it on cruse control and I would feel surges of power and then it would feel like it lost the power, but it could keep a constant pace.

The exhaust smells worse then normal.. I know it's a fuel delivery issue.

Here are my possible thoughts on what it could be:

I have testpipes & 90k on the clock, Bad O2 Sensors? at what mileage should they be replaced?

Maybe faulty fuel pump?

MAF dirty?

Bad Gas?? (it's at 1/4th Tank and it just started happening)

I unplugged the negative battery terminal and let it sit but it still does it...

HELP!!!!



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rn79870
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It sounds like your computer has lost it's mind and I'd bet it was related to the test pipes and an O2 sensor. You might ask the same question in the Z forum, as I think I read something there about how the VQ cooks O2 sensors when test pipes are involved.


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Sentientbydesign
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Before we all start speculating as to what the problem is, why don't you go pull the CEL codes...Oh wait, you can't because you just dumped them

Good job. Next time pull the codes. It's very possible that the MAF or some other sensor is malfunctioning. I won't touch test pipes, so I can't help you there.

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gwoods
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Really need to check for codes with a scan tool.... they don't all make your CEL come on.

Drive it some more until it starts acting up then run the codes.

If your car is an automatic a failing torque convertor can make the car act like you said its acting... so can a clogged fuel filter!

With the car idling can you hear a mis fire?

Have you checked under the hood for loose wires?

Kenrik
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gwoods wrote:Really need to check for codes with a scan tool.... they don't all make your CEL come on.

Drive it some more until it starts acting up then run the codes.

If your car is an automatic a failing torque convertor can make the car act like you said its acting... so can a clogged fuel filter!

With the car idling can you hear a mis fire?

Have you checked under the hood for loose wires?
From what I understand a faulty O2 sensor causes these same conditions..

The car has 90k and from what I have read you should really change the sensors at 100k.. + it does not help that I have test pipes.

I'm going to see if I can get a code out of it (it's still running crappy and the CEL is still on) if it is the O2 sensors it's an easy fix that should run me about $150 including defowlers.

Until then I'll just drive the Versa.

TeflonG35
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Good luck. Hope its a simple fix. My car is down now as well. My parts come on Thursday so for now I am rocking my roommates 88 Pontiac formula Fiero.

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Beancooker
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My guess would be O2 sensors, since you have test pipes. If it's not the O2 sensors, I'd say MAF.

Check the codes.

tollboothwilley
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I'd also say O2 sensors.

Recommended change interval is 100K miles i believe, but I think your problem is only because you didnt already have defoulers set up on your test pipes. Too much exhaust, too much heat...pushes O2 sensors out very quickly.

Where you find the O2 sensors for $150? There are 4 four our cars, 2 pre cat(unheated) and 2 post cat(heated).

joe603
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I say pull the codes, put some decent gas in the car and go easy on it for a few days. Then pull the codes again. If it's not gas, it sounds like a fuel pump to me...

Jacko3
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I am not sure Kenrik, but if 02 sensors or even MAF, were bad or malfunctioning, then at idle, the RPM needle will keep moving up and down as your ECU searches for the right timing and/or A/F ratio mixture. In fact, when you give it gas, when staionary, it might actually shut down the car--usually very rough at idle. You should get a code, even if the CEL does not come on, if it is an electrical or A/F mixture problem. CEL not coming on, does not mean there isn't a faulty code in the ECU.

If this is not hapenning at idle, then i urge you to check the little fuses in the fuse box. Get a CEL code check. Bad fuel, bad fuel filter, bad pressure regulator, an aging fuel pump, will cause this type of behavior in a car especially when it is in motion--sometimes, it will drive fine and and other times it just annoys the heck out of you. It will most likely progressively get worse as it gets more clogged up or unable to push more fuel to the engine. Just my 2 cents.


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Sentientbydesign
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tollboothwilley wrote:There are 4 four our cars, 2 pre cat(unheated) and 2 post cat(heated).
This is debatable. One of our lovely newer members made it a point to "inform" us that there are no pre-cats on our cars. Then made sure we all knew how stupid we were.

I looked up the FSM and couldn't find much info on the Cats. There was no mention of a pre-cat that I saw.

Jacko,

IIRC, the ECU will go into "protection" mode if the MAF fails completely. It runs the fuel mixture very rich and limits engine RPMs to 4k or so.

Jacko3
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Nate:

Thanks! Good info.

Kenrik
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yes it idles funny searching for a rpm..

The check engine light is on which makes me think it's the 02 sensors because I don't think a faulty fuel pump can throw a CEL.

Also put the ecm in diagnostic mode and see what codes come up.

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RED_DET
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While the car is running, unplug the MAF and see what happens.

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SVTCOBRA
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Kenrik wrote:yes it idles funny searching for a rpm..

The check engine light is on which makes me think it's the 02 sensors because I don't think a faulty fuel pump can throw a CEL.

Also put the ecm in diagnostic mode and see what codes come up.
I recently had the CEL come on in the cobra.Took it to Autozone for them to pull the codes.It pointed to a mis-fire on bank 1.I replaced the spark plugs on the pass. side. (even tho the wires & plugs were changed 20K ago) Light came back on after 50 miles and was still idling strange.

Took it to FURD and had them run a diagnostic.It said the pass side O2 sensor was bad - between engine & cat.I replace it, reset the codes, drives SMOOTH. Ran it 100 miles and had it inspected. Light has been off since.

Had a 01 Pathy. Same thing. Took it to Advance. They pulled the codes and said it was a mis-fire due to bad spark plug. Took it to Nissan, they ran a diagnostic and it was an O2 sensor that was bad.

Beware of autozone and advance.

Daughter's Max was running like crap - skipping.Took it to Autozone. They pulled the codes and said a number 4 mis-fire.Bought a spark plug and coil pack. It was the number 4 coil pack.Sometimes they get it right!!

Good luck!!!

My bet is an O2 sensor, but I might try some fresh gas & Lucas gas treatment first.

Jacko3
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Good! Go ahead and do what RED_DET suggested--unplug the MAF while the car is running and tell us what happens or use the butt of a screwdriver and tap on the MAF a few times, while it is still connected and while the car is running, and tell us what happens.

Another part than can cause this problem is a distributor--I have no idea what the equivalent is in these modern cars or in a G-35 Coupe which has so much electronics. I know the G has a distributor or an equivalent---a part that controls timing and current to the spark plugs. However, if that component is bad, the ECU will always pick it up as a code, and the CEL may not necessarily come on.


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Sentientbydesign
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Jacko:



Coil packs and electronic ignition.

Kenrik
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CodesPO132PO152PO158PO132 (Pending??)PO152 (Pending??)

All were O2 Sensor

What it said..

Bank 1 Sensor 1Bank 2 Sensor 1Bank 2 Sensor 2Bank 1 Sensor 1 *Pending*Bank 2 Sensor 1 Bank 2 Sensor 2 *Pending*

Put that in english please?

I see it as both O2s after the cat and one of the upper O2s?

What's with the *Pending* ???

Am I right>?

Ok now.. can I go with universal O2 sensors? they are like half the price and right now I'm super poor.I just paid for my wife's school

Kenrik
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Sentientbydesign
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I think the pending means that the code was stored from a previous instance. I could be wrong. We need C-kwik to come to the rescue lol.

Jacko3
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Nate:

Thanks! I needed that. sometimes this brain of mine starts to do its own thing.

Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT
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Kinda like a Miss Fire!

I think you should replace all fo the O2 Sensors just to be safe! You are not going to change 2 and then that might cause you more problems later?

but I would do it right the first time

DJ

Jacko3
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Tampa:

Very sound advice---replace all the 02, even if with universal o2 sensors.

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zozoka1212
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Kenrik wrote:CodesPO132PO152PO158PO132 (Pending??)PO152 (Pending??)

All were O2 Sensor

What it said..

Bank 1 Sensor 1Bank 2 Sensor 1Bank 2 Sensor 2Bank 1 Sensor 1 *Pending*Bank 2 Sensor 1 Bank 2 Sensor 2 *Pending*

Put that in english please?

I see it as both O2s after the cat and one of the upper O2s?

What's with the *Pending* ???

Am I right>?

Ok now.. can I go with universal O2 sensors? they are like half the price and right now I'm super poor.I just paid for my wife's school
PO158 - O2 sensor bank 2 sensor 2PO132 sensor1 bank1PO152 sensor1 bank 2

Possible Causes:

1.bad 02 sensor(most likely)2.running really rich3. fuel pressure return line blocked/broken or pressure regulator no workie or leaking.

I guess you never had SAAB.

zozo


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telcoman
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Sentientbydesign wrote: Jacko:



Coil packs and electronic ignition.
You mean there is no longer a distributor cap, points, and a condensor? Telcoman

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gwoods
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SVTCOBRA wrote:
I recently had the CEL come on in the cobra.Took it to Autozone for them to pull the codes.It pointed to a mis-fire on bank 1.I replaced the spark plugs on the pass. side. (even tho the wires & plugs were changed 20K ago) Light came back on after 50 miles and was still idling strange.

Took it to FURD and had them run a diagnostic.It said the pass side O2 sensor was bad - between engine & cat.I replace it, reset the codes, drives SMOOTH. Ran it 100 miles and had it inspected. Light has been off since..
Lucky I had a mis fire #3 in my hemi ram, pulled the plugs and the gaps were closed, pulled the head and found the ring land was missing from 12 o clock to about 3 oclock.

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gwoods
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Kenrik wrote:CodesPO132PO152PO158PO132 (Pending??)PO152 (Pending??)

All were O2 Sensor

What it said..

Bank 1 Sensor 1Bank 2 Sensor 1Bank 2 Sensor 2Bank 1 Sensor 1 *Pending*Bank 2 Sensor 1 Bank 2 Sensor 2 *Pending*

Put that in english please?

I see it as both O2s after the cat and one of the upper O2s?

What's with the *Pending* ???

Am I right>?

Ok now.. can I go with universal O2 sensors? they are like half the price and right now I'm super poor.I just paid for my wife's school
The universals will work fine you may end up splicing wires cause they probably won't just plug in. Check how many wires your O2 sensors have now vs the universal I think there are 4 and 5 wire O2 sensors (with or without heater?) I would replace all 4 O2 sensors.

Nice scan tool! I HAD an autoxray that I sold when I sold my Ram.

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Sentientbydesign wrote:We need C-kwik to come to the rescue lol.
Thanks for the vote of confidence. LOL.

But I'm not sure I can be too specific on this topic. Codes can appear for a variety of reasons, not just a failure of the sensors themselves. I'm dealing with a handful of codes on two of my parent's cars. One is a 01 Sentra my mom just got. Followed the FSM procedures and determined the sensor the code involves was bad. Replaced it and the code still comes up.

For Kenrik's car, it doesn't come off like O2 sensor malfunctions. I wouldn't expect several of them to fail simultaneously nor would I expect the car to run that poorly from a worn out or faulty O2 sensor. My guess would be that something else may be causing the issue that isn't detected by the OBD2 and is causing the O2 sensor readings to be way off. The FSM should go through all the possibilities.

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Focusedintntions
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I had a similar issue to this with my focus SVT...turned out it was just a clogged fuel filter....

May want to check that...most modern cars have them and people don't really realize they should be changed every 20k or so...

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Sentientbydesign
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Focusedintntions wrote:I had a similar issue to this with my focus SVT...turned out it was just a clogged fuel filter....

May want to check that...most modern cars have them and people don't really realize they should be changed every 20k or so...
I think all Nissan/Infinitis since 2000 only have one fuel filter. It's a sleeve filter that's part of the fuel pump. They did away with the in-line filter.

I know this is true for the G and the Maxima. I assume it's the same for the other vehicles.


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