Hey Bro's and Broetts, I need your help. I've researched what to check but everything seem fine. So this is the issue. when I bought the car it had a ka24de with a blown headgasket but ran and drove fine no problems, so I took and head off and resurfaced the head and deleted the egr stuff, capping off what i didn't need and using what I did need. Now the car won't drive past 35-40mph, and if I don't baby the throttle it bogs down start spuddering and jerking. the highest in rpm i can get babying the throttle is 3500 max. once i'm driving if i just in the clutch it will die, but will idle just fine if i turn it back on.

These are the things I've checked so far.
Vacuum leaks,
tps sensor,
timing,
spark plug & wires,
grounds,

It is weird because before I did any work to the car it ran and drove like it should

Bump 1 Please Need some help

Okay so I did a compression test after I warmed up the engine, took out all spark plugs, removed fuel relays, and WOT.

Cylinder 1: Cold 140, Warm 145, Cap of oil down Spark plug hole 165
Cylinder 2: Cold 135, Warm 145, Cap of oil down spark plug hole 170
Cylinder 3: Cold 130, Warm 141, Cap of oil down Spark plug hole 164
Cylinder 4: Cold 125, Warm 137, Cap of oil down spark plug hole 151

Do you think these compression numbers would cause the problems from my first post?
Will be checking the engine wiring harness thoroughly tomorrow. also got new spark plugs and some knock sensors off of some nissans from pullapart. gonna get a new o2 sensor tomorrow as well.

It's tough to say. It sounds like you did several projects at once. I try to make one change at a time, that way, I can keep track of potential issues and tackle them quicker. Maybe you should roll back a few of those changes until you get it running again. Like put back your EGR or EVAP or whatever you removed while working on your head gasket.

Incorrectly blocked off EGR deletes could cause such limp mode issues. It's kind of like having a huge vacuum leak at times when EGR should have been open.

You can use the FSM to diagnose issues. You can get codes from your cars computer to see what it thinks are causing problems. I think that might be a good start at this point. Can you pull codes?

centralcoaster33 wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 27, 2017 1:52 pm

It's tough to say. It sounds like you did several projects at once. I try to make one change at a time, that way, I can keep track of potential issues and tackle them quicker. Maybe you should roll back a few of those changes until you get it running again. Like put back your EGR or EVAP or whatever you removed while working on your head gasket.

Incorrectly blocked off EGR deletes could cause such limp mode issues. It's kind of like having a huge vacuum leak at times when EGR should have been open.

You can use the FSM to diagnose issues. You can get codes from your cars computer to see what it thinks are causing problems. I think that might be a good start at this point. Can you pull codes?

Okay thank your for the reply. I went through the FSM to diagnose the problem, no fix yet

I've checked for vacuum leaks, I don't have any.

I've check the ecu, the only code i get is code34 knock sensor,

EGR was blocked off with no issues, as well as for the butterfly valve stuff that was in the upper intake mani.

I just got done removing and checking the entire engine wiring harness for gremlins. it is good tho.

Unfortunately i can't put the egr stuff back on since i threw it away like a dumbass

Good to check wires. The spots where the harnesses go bad is often the 90 degree bend from the firewall to the injectors near the FPR and sometimes on the front of the block where the harness splits up and goes off to distributor and temp sensors, etc.

For the EGR delete, you needed to plug the exhaust pipe and put a plate over the intake manifold where the EGR stuff was. You needed to re-route your vacuum lines from the EGR control solenoid back to the intake instead of the EGR BPT thing.

Did you do a PCV bypass/ re-routing?

Did you make changes to the EVAP system? Doing this one wrong can result in odd pressure issues in the fuel system.

'...as well as for the butterfly valve stuff that was in the upper intake mani.' ?????????????

The engine will run at those compression numbers.

CAM timing correct?, that can do exactly that.

centralcoaster33 wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 30, 2017 2:52 pm

Good to check wires. The spots where the harnesses go bad is often the 90 degree bend from the firewall to the injectors near the FPR and sometimes on the front of the block where the harness splits up and goes off to distributor and temp sensors, etc.

For the EGR delete, you needed to plug the exhaust pipe and put a plate over the intake manifold where the EGR stuff was. You needed to re-route your vacuum lines from the EGR control solenoid back to the intake instead of the EGR BPT thing.

Did you do a PCV bypass/ re-routing?

Did you make changes to the EVAP system? Doing this one wrong can result in odd pressure issues in the fuel system.

thanks for replying

I kept the pcv stock, just replaced the broken rubber hoses for the PCV
evap system? after I deleted the emissions stuff there were only 4 vacuum ports left on the intake manifold. one came off and went to the charcoal canister ( I capped this one off ). the next one was the little one under the throttle body ( capped off ). the third one is a small one on the back of the intake manifold right next to the brake booster vac port ( I used this one for the FPR). the forth and last one is the big one for the brake booster.

amc49 wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 30, 2017 5:09 pm

'...as well as for the butterfly valve stuff that was in the upper intake mani.' ?????????????

The engine will run at those compression numbers.

CAM timing correct?, that can do exactly that.

HAHA sorry i get ahead of myself sometimes when i type. I was trying to say I removed those butterfly valves in the upper portion of the intake manifold. making sure to plug off the end where the rod comes out from. I'm gonna check timing tomorrow and make sure that it is off.