Need help/advise FAST...cooling system

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DCaff300ZX
Posts: 4202
Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:18 am
Car: .
1993 CRP TT- Modified
Location: Tacoma, Washington

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OK...all chuckles aside (especially from Z-Owned), the problem:
I had a small rise in temp early during our weekend cruise that went away the rest (80+) of the day, but was obviously a warning of today's far more serious problem.
Suddenly I am getting a SMALL (after two radiator refills) head-sized coolant "puddle"/stain coolant drip under the gas pedal, and more surprisingly after a quart of coolant added this AM, an empty radiator after about 35 miles driving (on the way home today after discovering this AM the radiator was again "low" and refilling)...but also no coolant puddle anywhere underneath the car after refilll, OR a spirited drive around the block, plus I have a full/overfull overflow container.
Maybe better placed in Tech, but I need answers fast if possible so fire away with anything relevant- like if I can actually access the driver's side inlet/exit, or something I'm missing.
And yes I know what you're thinking- I "burped" the rad with the coolant add, there's no water in the oil (foamy/milky), no coolant surge when the radiator cap is off, or water out the exhaust- period, end of story.
OFSM isn't helpful yet as to a water inlet/exit on the driver's side to pinpoint the coolant leak, and my fear is the leak is in the inlet/exit to the body of the infamous/dreaded climate control system...please, PLEASE somebody give me a positive direction to go here, as my hunt has ended with the thought I have to pull the whole dash apart to find the leak... :cry:...I need to get to work for hours 50-70...
Oh, and in the interest of full disclosure my shop-added crappy clutch fan did die two weeks ago requiring replacement, but the water pump SEEMS to be fine both then and now- no leaks or noises, operates smoothly and WAS checked, checked, checked.
HELP!

edit- Biggest questions since past experience is any leak is huge- is where is the coolant going and from where, where do I search for my leak?


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es.biggs
Posts: 2120
Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:32 am
Car: 1990 300ZX 5sp NA
Location: Charlotte, NC

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If you can, get a hold of a coolant pressure tester. Or take it to somebody who has it to help you find that leak. That is the number one easiest and most definite way to find a coolant leak.

Another option (if you know it's from the heating system) would be to bypass the heater box, just re-route the two hoses that go into the firewall and connect them one way or another. Or put a new hose on to connect the two heater pipes on the back of the engine. Thats the best way to band-aid the repair, just know your heat won't work when the cold weather returns. It will at least buy you some time to fix it when you can, and still be perfectly driveable until then.

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DCaff300ZX
Posts: 4202
Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:18 am
Car: .
1993 CRP TT- Modified
Location: Tacoma, Washington

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Thanks es, you're following my 'help now" thinking...Yes, it will be going into the shop tomorrow for pressure tests+ but for my own sanity (and because I ALWAYS am the one who truly fixes my problems to my satisfaction), the issue is where the other inlet/outlet thru the firewall is, and how to access it.
I can see one water passage on the passenger side but no other inlet/outlet on the driver's side where the leak is, where is the second inlet/outlet so I can temporarily bypass them? Couldn't find a diagram...or, I'm an insane (YEP!) moron?

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DCaff300ZX
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Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:18 am
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1993 CRP TT- Modified
Location: Tacoma, Washington

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OK- a pressure test and talk with my sometime mechanic suggest it's the heater core and after finding the diagram I needed under engine cooling system, it's off for a bypass job until I can replace the core...

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A Paratroopers 300zx
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Joined: Sat Apr 24, 2010 11:33 pm
Car: 1992 Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo
2004 Toyota MR-S
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^^ Yes good idea on the bypass until you have the time to rip apart the dash. It's a very big PITA to do. Patience and a lot of cursing will help lol. Good luck with the heater core replacement!

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DCaff300ZX
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Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:18 am
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1993 CRP TT- Modified
Location: Tacoma, Washington

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OK, bypass done and holds pressure after 2 hours...phew!
But not looking forward to the core replacement at all...just may have it done for time's sake.

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Ace2cool
Posts: 11650
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:21 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX TT
1966 Datsun Fairlady 1600
2005 Suzuki GSX-R 600
1974 Honda CB550 Four
2009 Ford F150 Lariat
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

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Glad you got it sorted. I'm moving it now.

marty1mc
Posts: 733
Joined: Sat Jan 16, 2010 1:51 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 300ZX TT - Z owner since 2003
Location: Fuquay Varina,NC

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There is a way to replace the heater core without pulling the dash. I pulled this from 3ZC for those that are not members. This procedure was created by PearlTTZ on 3ZC and is simple and easy to use.

Well, I know many of us have this problem but we just do not want to admit this. Yes, a leaking Heater Core… What can be more frustrating than a cup of hot coolant spilling on your girlfriend’s feet while you are trying to show her how cool your Z is? Anyways, I’ve had this problem for a while now and the first time I attempted to fix this, I bought a used heater core and of course it failed again. I decided to do it the right way this time.

With this approach, you get every necessary thing replaced and save yourself a load of time.

You WILL NOT need to pull the dash.

What you need:

1. NEW heater core from dealer (MSRP $127)
2. Basic tools (Philips, flathead, 14mm, 10mm, 8mm, short Philips, Dremel metal cutter, 2 pieces of rubber hose (I used 5/8” heater hose from HD, 4 clamps.
3. Absorbent towels
4. Needle nose pliers
5. Patience.

Step 1. Remove your seat (4 14mm bolts)
Step 2. Remove the cover in driver’s knee area (4 10mm bolts)
Step 3. Remove the side vent cover and remove the two air guide tubes exposed after the
knee cover removal.
Step 4. Remove the black cover of the climate control unit. I do not care how, you can
even break it, that part is useless… just like the 4th back bolt on the A/C
compressor that pissed me off during my engine pull!!!
Step 5. Look at this picture closely. If it looks like this, then you in fact are a h0m0
Sapiens, if not, reassemble and go to a mechanic.

Image

You can see the climate control unit with 4 plugs going into it from the top. The unit is being held by 3 8mm bolts. 2 are visible and one is hidden from your view (location shown in the images below), but accessible. Not only are they 8mm, but they are also Philips bolts as well. The locations of bolts are shown with YELLOW circles. Remove the bottom ones first and then stick the screwdriver between plugs 2 and 3 on top. You can wiggle the unit around to get a glimpse of where the 3rd bolt is hiding. One the 3 bolts and plugs (RED arrows) are removed, place the unit in a safe place and proceed.

Step 6. Look at this picture closely.

Image

Now, remove the spring RED (there’s a hook on the left)
Now place a THICK towel here (LIME GREEN)
Now, unbolt the 8 screws (YELLOW) connecting the coolant pipes to the core.

BE CAREFUL!!! Not to spill too much coolant on the carpet… you’ll have to spend the rest of your day drying it…

Step 7. Look at this picture. Should look something like this.

Image

BLUE you can see the location of the 3rd climate control unit bolt that was previously hidden.

You will need to unbend the valve opening cable (YELLOW) with a pair of needle nose pliers.

Now comes the patented by Pearl_TTZ part… You will need to make 2 cuts on the pipes leading to the heater cores (marked RED). Do not worry, this is absolutely safe and you will be with a new heater core installed in no time…
To make a cut, use these…

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...cStoreNum=8125

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...cStoreNum=8125

Step 8. Separate the pipes leading into the heater core from the heater core itself. There will be coolant pouring out, so do your best to catch as much of it as possible with a towel. Remove the 8 Philips bolts holding the pipes down.

Image

Step 9. Using the circulating Dremel/Black & Decker tool, make the cuts like so.

Image

Step 10. Now clean up the cut off locations on the heater pipes. Make them look nice, perpendicular and remove the imperfections with file/sandpaper.

Step 11. Now you need to prepare the parts of the pipe that will go into the heater core. Basically use the pieces you cut off and cut the same exact size/shape off a NEW heater pipes.

Image
Image
Image

Step 12.

Now slide the new heater core back into the slot in the airbox. There are clip holding it down initially that I do not show in this review because they are not necessary and I removed them when I replaced my first heater core.

Step 13.

Connect the little pipes going to the heater core and the car’s heater hoses. It would be easier to put the rubber hoses on pipes loosely, secure the little pipes to the heater core and THEN clamp down the hose pieces with clamps onto the pipes. Should look like this.

Image
Image

Step 15.

Run the car for 10 min with heater “ON” and make sure there are no leaks coming from the core/hoses/pipes. If all ok, replace the knee panel and breathe easy… you are now ready for winter!!!

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DCaff300ZX
Posts: 4202
Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:18 am
Car: .
1993 CRP TT- Modified
Location: Tacoma, Washington

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VERY helpful Marty, thanks!!!

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McShanks
Posts: 116
Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2011 8:49 am
Car: 1990 300ZX 2+2 VH45 with custom engineering in progress
Location: North Central Indiana

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Wow, that is a good article. I will archive that for just in case. Thanks, marty!


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