Need help with transmission!

[Ily Beeg]

Im in need of some help, I have questions and want to know what you guys think.
So my car about 2 weeks ago stopped grabbing gears. My clutch pedal got stuck to the floor ,but when I pulled it out I would still be able to go through gears with the car on. The guy before me told me it needed a clutch so I went out and bought one. We got to the clutch and it was still in very good condition. Everything looked good, so we replaced the Master and slave cylinder and did a whole flush. That didn't fix it either. My mechanic said my input shaft is bad which is why it wont grab any gears. Also it had a clutch with the serial NSD035U which (correct me if im wrong) Is for a Ka transmission. So I figured im running a Ka transmission with a Ca motor. I went out and bought another Ka transmission and now my mechanic is refusing to put it on since its not the original transmission (even though its right infront of his face). I would do it my self but I lack the tools and time necessary to do this.

So my questions are, what all do you think it is that's causing my problem.
The clutch pedal feels like it has no resistance. It has fluid so everything else checks out.
As far as a transmission swap with a Ca motor with a Ka transmission what do I need? Is it just unbolt the Ka bell housing and match them up to my current bell housing? Or does the Ka bell housing line up to the Ca motor?
If anyone could shine some light on me, I know this is possible, i've read it numerous times I just need a write up or someone with more knowledge that could explain this to me.

Thanks to those that took the time to read this and reply.

[float_6969]

The clutch pedal going to the floor is not likely anything to do with the clutch itself, but the clutch master, clutch slave, or the lines between. I know you said they've been replaced, but that doesn't mean it was done properly. The issue lies in the clutch dampener. It's this little box bolted to the side of the frame with a big loop coming out of it. The idea is that it makes the clutch easier to engage/disengage. The issue is that it HAS to be bled whenever the rest of the system is bled, or it will trap air. Air in the system will make the pedal go to the floor with no resistance.

The way to check is to have someone depress the clutch pedal while someone else watches the clutch slave. I'll bet that the clutch slave doesn't move, or if it does, it doesn't move very much. When the clutch pedal is depressed, the clutch slave rod should move about 2". I'll bet that it only moves about 1/4". If so, the system hasn't been bled properly. The correct procedure is listed in the FSM. There is a link in the FAQ to download it. You can also buy a S.S. Clutch line and it will eliminate the clutch dampener all together.

[Ily Beeg]

Alright man thanks! I'll look into that. I had a mechanic working on it. He's the one that did my master and slave cylinder, he was also about to do m clutch but he realized that it was still in great condition. But I'll look at that part!
My mechanic fixed it by adding an extension or something to the input shaft so the clutch would make contact cause it was stuck dissengaged. It "runs" but it slips like CRAZY! Getting up to free way speeds is almost impossible and taking off takes a good 3 seconds for the car to start rolling.
A couple other questions to add on.
Will a Ka24 clutch work with a Ca motor?
By the looks of it I was running a Ka clutch.
Or would I need a Ca clutch. Even though I'd be running a ka transmission.
Also some more info on doing that ca to ka transmission swap would be helpful:)
Thank you though!
Keep the responses coming!

[Izento]

From my understanding, the clutch doesn't change even if you get a different transmission. You still will need a CA clutch if you get a KA transmission. This is because the bellhousing will always have to be a CA bellhousing. You can't put a KA transmission on a CA engine without using a CA bellhousing.

Now, all that aside, you can use a KA clutch on a CA engine (regardless if its the original CA transmission or a KA transmission with a bellhousing swap), but it requires removing some pin or something on the pressure plate or some s***. I just bought a CA clutch and called it a day.

I also have bleed problems with mine as well (luckily it isn't severe). These cars are famous for the stupid clutch system.

[Ily Beeg]

From my understanding, the clutch doesn't change even if you get a different transmission. You still will need a CA clutch if you get a KA transmission. This is because the bellhousing will always have to be a CA bellhousing. You can't put a KA transmission on a CA engine without using a CA bellhousing.

Now, all that aside, you can use a KA clutch on a CA engine (regardless if its the original CA transmission or a KA transmission with a bellhousing swap), but it requires removing some pin or something on the pressure plate or some s***. I just bought a CA clutch and called it a day.

I also have bleed problems with mine as well (luckily it isn't severe). These cars are famous for the stupid clutch system.

So can someone confirm that the clutch with the model number NSD035U is a ka clutch?
And sweet you say it exactly how everyone else explains it so I figure its a no brainer really. Just replacing gaskets would be the only thing that makes this annoying. But im getting under the car Saturday hopefully, Ill try what you guys are suggesting then! But thank you guys for the help!


edit: I hope autozone still has the ca clutch I returned! would a ca18de clutch work. I ordered it saying it was for a pulsar nx se.

[float_6969]

KA clutch can be made to work. You either have to remove one or two alignment dowels (I DON'T suggest that method) or drill the pressure plate so the dowel lines up.

CA clutches are easy to get and require no drama to install.

As for that clutch of yours.... That is NOT a KA clutch. It's an L20 clutch. I would imagine that is the cause of your clutch issues. It may bolt up, but I imagine the rest of it is wrong and is the problem with the slipping clutch.
http://www.exedy-aftermarket.com/englis ... =NS-W430-1

Just get this, install, and be done with it;
http://www.frsport.com/SPEC-Clutch-SN34 ... _8064.html

[Izento]

I don't recommend Spec unless it's a daily driver or you're an old man. I recommend ACT http://www.frsport.com/ACT-NS4-HDSS-Str ... _9417.html

[float_6969]

I had a SPEC StageIII+ on my CA running around 275whp (close to 300hp at the flywheel I would guess) and never had an issue.

I've never understood all the SPEC hate.