need guide mechanic...

[colinm]

OK, I am really wanting to get this Q, but from what I know so far, the guides haven't been replaced (going to double check the records but the seller doesn't seem to know much about the car). The guides are the big question right now as to wether or not the car is worth buying. If I can get them done really cheap I think I can handle it financially. A local shop I have used quite a bit said they'll do chains for $1200, which I can't afford.. I asked if they could do JUST the guides for less and they couldn't give me an immediate answer. (gonna give them a visit tomorrow).

Alternative... find a NICO member who is close who could help me, or possibly do it myself. I don't personally know any really good mechanics so I'd basically be on my own as far as on-site help (I've got a digital camera and NICO forums though, hehe).. I have very little real mechanical experience, but I'm no dumbass if you know what I mean so my question is.. any of you guys live near Knoxville TN? If not, am I WAY in over my head on this? Down time is not an issue (well, I want to actually drive it someday, but i don't mind waiting a week or two if that's what it takes). Basically, I've got DAEDALUS's written guide and other forum posts on what to do, but that's about it. I believe I have all the tools I need except the torque wrenches which my neighbor may have. I know you guys love to help, but am I asking too much here? Am I a fool to think I can do this?

btw, I can tell you right now I am not gonna pay $2500 for a 92 with 159k miles, bad transmission, and (I think) original guides.. at 159k miles, I would be surprised if the guides are good still after reading what I've read on here..

hey, anyone want to buy the bad transmission? I may be buying a 1990 that was rebuilt.. anything I need to know about putting a 90 transmission in a 92?

Thanks,Colin

[DAEDALUS]

Geez, if they'll do the chains for $1200, they should cut you a little better a price on the guides alone. To do the chains, they have to remove the radiator (maybe), front cover, and both rocker covers! To do the guides only, they have to remove the radiator (maybe) and the front cover. The chains seem like double the guide labor to me. Parts cost (Scottsdale) is maybe $100 for chains only, vs. $360 for guides/tensioners only.

[TnQDrvr]

Colin, I live in Morristown and I could not find anybody here who would touch the chains/chain guides, so I ended up driving to T3 in Atlanta. Who do you use that was up to this job?

[Q45tech]

Good luck on getting even the guides and oil chain changed PROPERLY for under $1000 as an expert takes 8 real hours if nothing goes wrong. Owners are advised that if the guides are broken and the oil pan needs cleaning to have another $500 available.

I have a decent used transmission for [90-93], just at $1100 installed in ATL. Will not ship.

Why do you think a 159k 92Q is available for $4,000 less than a 92 LS400 [$6500] because it needs $4,000 worth of work. You could pay $9,500 for a 92 MB 400E and still have to change the chains and transmission.

Working with a friend who bought a pristine 95 SL320 for $27,000 last year at 68,000 miles. It needs a $6,000 remanned transmission NOW after only 7900 miles. My guess is another $5,000 on top of that should put it totally right!

Q owners don't realize how inexpensive Nissan parts are against European brands.

[colinm]

TnQDrvr, it is just a local shop and from what I gather they had never done a Q chain specifically, they pretty much quote prices off "the book" (actually a CD database they have).

If you replace the chain, do you have to redo the timing or what?

Thanks,Colin

[DAEDALUS]

Removing the chain removes the timing. But it's pretty clear which link goes to which sprocket tooth when the chain goes back on. The tricky part is keeping the chain in place until after you get the guides back on. The cams are under a lot of load and they love to jump if given the chance. Having someone (or a tool) hold the camshafts till the timing's set with the guides in really helps.

[greg_atlanta]

. A local shop I have used quite a bit said they'll do chains for $1200, which I can't afford.

This is not the car for you if a $1200 repair is a stretch.... just because the car is old and cheaper than a lot of other cars doesn't mean it's a "smart buy".

$1200 is just the beginning.

[PalmerWMD]

This is not the car for you if a $1200 repair is a stretch.... just because the car is old and cheaper than a lot of other cars doesn't mean it's a "smart buy".

$1200 is just the beginning.

greg,

why are you always so down on our cars?

Fred..

[colinm]

oh I understand that very clearly.. I have an 89 Ford Ranger with a 302, and it has been a VERY DEEP money pit.. Alternator, ENGINE, carb, transmission, shocks, brakes, brakes, etc...

If I can get the car working initially for a decent sum, I am prepared to have to do additional repairs later. If it isn't going to work it isn't going to work. At 159k and still supposedly running, it is a wonder the guides haven't caused a problem yet. I still am not totally clear on what the minimum amoutn of work is required to just check the guides. An old thread seemed to have concluded that just taking off that little panel isn't reliable...

Thanks,Colin

[PalmerWMD]

Taking off the front cover is whats needed.

Fred...

[PalmerWMD]

Taking off the front cover is whats needed.

Fred...

And by that time of course most of the works already been done might as well change.

Fred..

[greg_atlanta]

greg,

why are you always so down on our cars?

Fred..

I'm not down on cars, I'm up on healthy finances!!! Rescuing older cars -- esp. luxury cars and sports cars -- is better suited to more affluent people who have CASH. (I've been living on "available credit"). :pface

[greg_atlanta]

If this helps... I bought my '92 Q at 130K miles in Dec. 1999 for $9500 out the door, car had just had $6000 dealer engine rebuild (from timing chain failure), and I've spent almost $11,000 in last 3 years on repairs and maintenance (including fluid changes and tires, excluding insurance & gas), and it still needs about $5000 of work to be close to perfect. Now at 185K miles and still on same transmission (not sure if original or not).

Still love the car, but in retrospect I would have been better off with $400/month payments on a new or almost new Camry/Accord/Altima.

A lot of that $11,000 is still sitting on credit cards!!

[colinm]

I have cash... just not a whole lot.. at this point I refuse to go into debt over a vehicle. that is why I'm trying to be cautious.. btw, you guys on this forum have been awesome I know you probably hate having to revisit transmission questions all the time for newcomers like me (I swear, I've spent HOURS using the red search button, hehe).

One transmission question...I think hte seller may have already had the transmission replaced with a junk yard pull which had like 80-90k miles on it.. this sounds like a very short-fused bomb to me.. Is there a certain way to tell if a transmission is a reliable model or not? What are the serial numbers for 92 trannys, good and bad. How can I verify the serial numbers.. The mechaninc installing didn't install a cooler, so if I get it that'll be the first thing to do I guess, pending the guides.

Thanks again

[Q45tech]

"Dec. 1999 for $9500 out the door, car had just had $6000 dealer engine rebuild (from timing chain failure), and I've spent almost $11,000 in last 3 years on repairs and maintenance (including fluid changes and tires, excluding insurance & gas), and it still needs about $5000 of work to be close to perfect. Now at 185K miles".............55,000 miles and $11,000 is 20 cents per mile.............in 40 months or $275 per month.

A little over the $250 per month I warn buyers to expect and have available for maintenance and repairs.Still with $4500 in gas and $4,000 in insurance and $400 in tag taxes say $9500 + $11k+ $9k =~~~$30k say $10,000 per year plus interest..........pretty much what one would expect for a 8-11 year old lux performance car.

Couple of thousand per year more than a plan Jane car.

Weight and a V8 vs Econobox 4 cylinder manual.

When I had to spend $13,000 in 24 months I too considered another car.

It isn't for nothing that the Japanese and Europeans tax the cars based on displacement.......anything over 3.0 liters costs you significantly more to buy and annual license.You gotta be rich to drive a 4.5 liter car...NEW OR USED.

[colinm]

I drive a 5.0 liter truck, and I'm not rich.. although that is one of the reasons why

anybody have an answer on the transmission serial number question? agian.. what model/serial numbers on 92 trannys are good and which are bad?

Thanks again,Colin

[greg_atlanta]

A little over the $250 per month I warn buyers to expect and have available for maintenance and repairs.....Couple of thousand per year more than a plan Jane car.

Very true, and I'm certainly not bailing until the car self-destructs or gets totalled in an accident.

But would I buy an older lux car again? Yes.... but only if I had the financial resources to fix everything as soon as it needs to be fixed WITHOUT running up credit cards to do so!!

:thinker

[greg_atlanta]

I have cash... just not a whole lot.. at this point I refuse to go into debt over a vehicle. that is why I'm trying to be cautious....

The nice thing about Japanese cars is that you CAN delay a lot of needed repairs.... they do take a beating compared to US & Euro brands. But unless you have $400-500 PER MONTH to spend in the 1st year (maybe a lot more) then this is the wrong car.

Also remember that the book value for the car is very low and if you spend $10,000 fixing it and then it gets totalled in an accident, you'll be lucky to get a $3000 payoff from insurance. That especially freaks me out since Atlanta traffic is so crazy and there are a lot of hyper-aggressive, scatterbrained drivers.... very risky environment for an accident. If I lived out in the countryside I'd have a different perspective.

[greg_atlanta]

anybody have an answer on the transmission serial number question? agian.. what model/serial numbers on 92 trannys are good and which are bad?

'91 transmissions fared worse than other model years, but I'm not sure of serial numbers.

The only significant problem with the '90-'93 transmissions is an insufficient factory cooling mechanism. That can be remedied with an external transmission cooler, but on an existing transmission is just prevents further heat-related damage, doesn't correct the past.

The general consensus is that it's foolish to use anything but a factory remanufactured unit.

[PalmerWMD]

There is no reason the car should need $6000 in the first year unless soemthing weird happens.Heck, 6 k will buy a factory remanned transmission plus a full front end rehab and some new leather.

Fred...

[colinm]

So the reliability of all trannys is generally the same between 90-93? I know I have seen several model numbers, like 50X65 etc.. but have no idea what they mean. What if you get a 92 pull w/ ~90k miles and put a transmission cooler on it, does it still have very little life left in it?

I just can't see having to spend $500 a month in repairs.. If that is the case, then infiniti has more defects than just guides and transmission IMO. Also, I don't see how jap cars differ from domestic cars when it comes to "delaying" broken parts.. Sorry, but I must disagree with you, unless I jsut totally misunderstand you.. Does a broken jap waterpump work longer than a broken domestic waterpump? or alternator, or a/c or brakes? I just don't see it..

Thanks,Colin

[PalmerWMD]

There are some minor reliability improvements in the 93's.But all replacement trannies for those years are same now.

Actually those trannies are extremely strong and reliable, <if> you put on a transmission cooler and change the ATF often enough.

Fred..

[colinm]

Fred, you know any of the part numbers for more or less desireable transmissions? I want to know if the transmission they installed is going to last..

Thanks a bunch.Colin

[PalmerWMD]

The part numbers for the 90-93's replacement transmission's are now the same.The old numbers were different, but I dont know them (Q45tech?)

Most of the early transmission's are same, more or less, except the 91's were particularily weak, since changes introduced that year, affected reliabilty in a way, that had not been predicted.

But even if your transmission came out of a 91 chances are it was replaced by the time of crash with the improved transmission anyway.

Fred..

[colinm]

Thanks Fred, I guess I'll just have to test drive it and hope the guides don't fail while I'm doing so :o

Is there anything I should be attuned to in evalating the transmission in a test drive? I am not an experienced Q driver so I don't know how to reference, except by my dad's Buick Regal GS (excellent car btw, right up there with Q IMO, except the supercharger requires premium gas). His Regal's transmission is so smooth that unless you're flooring it you can't feel the shifts (even then it is difficult to feel any shift), and its so quiet you can hardly hear them either.

Thanks,Colin

[maxnix]

His Regal's transmission is so smooth that unless you're flooring it you can't feel the shifts (even then it is difficult to feel any shift), and its so quiet you can hardly hear them either.

The Q should be the same, even on full throttle upshifts. Any variation indicates wear.

Premium is required!

[colinm]

Yeah, I thought I had seen some mention of using premium gas? why is this?

[PalmerWMD]

The Q engine's comprerssion requires premium gas to fuly make use of engine's abilities.

Fred...

[Q45tech]

The term 'due diligence' is used prior to purchasing a company or asset, where a team tries to uncover whether the seller is telling the truth and the books are not cooked.

With a USED car you just pay an expert $200 to test and evauate everything.

Failure to do so can lead to surprises!