need car specs.

[downshift]

Yo, just wonderin if anyone can give me a lil info on a 88 Mazda Rx-7. Any info would be appreciated, but i would be interested in findin out the specs of the car, like hp, tq, engine, weight, etc. stuff like that. Any links would also be appreciated too. thanks to those for the help.

[JESTER]

turbo 182 bhp 183 ft/lb torque na 146 hp 139 ft/lb torque

engine, 1.3 liter rotory.

couldnt find weight on them, they are comparable to the s13. The convertibles are real heavy.

http://autos.msn.com/research/...sub=0

also RX7club.com

[silkk]

the engine is good until it reaches 100-120k :P

[downshift]

Thanks.....The guy wasnt offerin me a convertible anyways so i hope its about the same weight as an s13. When he gave me a quick look under the hood i dont think i seen a turbo, but i dont really know much about rotaries, so im gonna call and ask. It also looks in good condition so i dont believe that its above 120k. Another question: are rotary engines that much of a hassle to maintain? I have heard that they arent very reliable engines, just wanna know if thats a rumor or not? Once again, thanks.

[JESTER]

the Turbo II's have a scoup on the hood.

As the engines go. They are problematic due to the high heat that they produce. The 3rd gen is buy far worse than the 2nd gen like you are looking at. They are not bad engines. But with around 100 to 120 thousand miles they will soon need a rebuild.

But there are benniifts to rotarys. When you blow the engine, you can still drive it. I have never heard of both rotars going at the same time. So when it blows only half blows. Smokes and doesnt have alot of power but still runs. My friend drove his for three weeks after loosing his back rotar.

EDIT: I mis read your post. Had to edit part of mine

[downshift]

Yeah, thats what i was thinkin. Even though i dont know much about rotaries, im sure i woulda recognized the turbo. But this model didnt have a scoop....oh well, its no prob. But thats just crazy, bein able to blow half an engine. Well thanks again for the specs, but i will check that RX7club.com in the mornin, wait, it is the mornin.....ok then i would check it later this mornin.

[Mr1der]

you're gonna want to know the Trim level on it too. those damn FC's changed up a little bit as to which was the top of the line or had the more desirable features/specs...

when they blow the rotary, it's typically an apex seal, in some ways it's like toasting a head gasket around a cylinder on a piston motor. Similar result only a piston engine will generally overheat like a motha. Or having a valve go bad...stupid rotaries and the simplicity...

[JESTER]

THe GXL is the top of the line, except for Turbo II.

Another note, you can generally get a 13b refurbished for around 1000 to 1200 dollars if you blow a seal. A rebuild is higher.

[Megaseth]

you gotta do maintenince like every 6k miles to or something like that, and rebuild them at around 60k or 100k. the regulars are slow, but the engines will last longer. the turbos are faster, but the engines dont last long, unless you do major mods to keep it cool and have lots of fuel. thats another thing, they LOVE gas. good luck though.

[Mr1der]

THe GXL is the top of the line, except for Turbo II.

Another note, you can generally get a 13b refurbished for around 1000 to 1200 dollars if you blow a seal. A rebuild is higher.

you forgot about the GTU, usually it's the most desired NA model.

it may be different according to the year though:)

[downshift]

Thats good to know, cause the guy is offerin me an 88 rx-7 GTU for 3300. From you guys knowledge is this a good price or should i try to get it down a bit?

[Megaseth]

what condition is it in? mileage? if its in good condition with semi low miles, then that doesnt sound bad.

[Mr1der]

depends on mileage and the overall shape of the car.

if it's in really good shape, that's about an average price, though it's also an '88.

think I'd go 2800 at the most probably.

[downshift]

ok its a 88 rx-7 GTU, red, clean and looks in good condition, 227k, power steerin and a/c disconnected its for 3300. im gonna ask him to bring it down to 2800, if so them i may go for it. If he doesnt wanna bring it down then ima pass this one up. Might as well continue the research on them cause it may be a good investment in the future.

[nametakennow]

227k is a LOT on a rotary (a lot on a lot of cars, for that matter), ask if it's been rebuilt, and if not, see if he can hike the price down a bit so that you can get it rebuilt...

[downshift]

yeah i was thinkin that was alot too when my bro told me. But ima set up a time that we can meet tomorrow or saturday to ask all the details. I just gotta do a lil readin up tonight on that rx7 forum so i can know what im lookin for/at. thanks for the help

[JESTER]

Now that's a bunch of miles. It has had to be rebuilt a time or three.

Too bad my friend didn't take off his rims and suspension when he traded his in, or I could have hooked you up. He only installed them about two months before he took out a rotar and traded it.

[Kaioshin1982]

is it true that for rotary engines, each time u start the car, you should let it idle for like good 10 minutes? otherwise you flood the engine? thats just something i heard, and wanna know if its true or not.

[downshift]

Oh well, he wouldnt go down below 3grand for it....so i decided against it. Well, at least my boy chris bought it and he lives about 5 blocks from me, he is more of a rotary guy than me. I think i will stick to 4cyl engines for now.

[easymmkay240sx]

is it true that for rotary engines, each time u start the car, you should let it idle for like good 10 minutes? otherwise you flood the engine? thats just something i heard, and wanna know if its true or not.

You have to warm it up before you shut it off. Usually, holding the RPMs at 3k for 10 seconds will do the trick (which is what it SHOULD do, stock. When you start a stock 2nd gen it should rev itself to 3 grand for a little bit, then drop down.)

BTW, if taken care of (read as: mantained well, and driven hard every once in a while) a rotary will last a LONG time. One of my N/a's lasted for 200k before I lost a seal in the back rotor. and my first gen is still running strong at 225k miles without an overhaul (had the carb rebuilt a couble times)