Like the title says, I really need a CAS for a 94/95 Q... Im working on a friends car and we're still wroking through it, and I want to make sure we try and get a used one before we try and spend the $300 for a new one...
Symptoms are VERY sluggish, no power, CAS turned out to be "bad" on the consult, dont think its bad enough to throw CEL.. We want to have a new one in case the old one is bad, but were going to try and clean the connections first..
If someone would be so kind to check your junkyards and pull one of these, for say around $100, Ill give that person a nice little tip for their trouble!!
Id really appreciate any efforts and I will make it worth your while!!!
Need Cam sensor for 94/95 Q!!
-
Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
Look at the 2 waveforms with an oscilloscope: The 360 pulses should all be equal heights and the same with the every 90 degree pulses.
The only way they can partially fail is for some [a few] of the pulses to be reduced amplitude from internal rust/corrosion blocking part of the slot/slots.
No oscilloscope, you could couple the signal with a 0.001uf capacitor to a battery powered amplifier/speaker and listen to the tone at idle 600 rpm [10x 360=3.6 KHz] obviously the pitch will vary as does the idle........cheap frequency counters can be bought at Radio Shack.
The two separate systems in one housing reinforce each other to determine #1 TDC and each 90 degrees thereafter........plus the fine every degree pulses necessary to measure time [rpm] up to 7300 rpm with 10 rpm accuracy.
If the codes don't show and the engine revs above 3,000 rpm the internals are probably fine.
Not sure how many 1 degree pulses can be rough shaped or missing but it is probably at least 10 before hiccups start.
Always nice to have all the sensors as spares but other than MAF and TPS [wearing a bad spot at cruise] and of course knock sensor
The only way they can partially fail is for some [a few] of the pulses to be reduced amplitude from internal rust/corrosion blocking part of the slot/slots.
No oscilloscope, you could couple the signal with a 0.001uf capacitor to a battery powered amplifier/speaker and listen to the tone at idle 600 rpm [10x 360=3.6 KHz] obviously the pitch will vary as does the idle........cheap frequency counters can be bought at Radio Shack.
The two separate systems in one housing reinforce each other to determine #1 TDC and each 90 degrees thereafter........plus the fine every degree pulses necessary to measure time [rpm] up to 7300 rpm with 10 rpm accuracy.
If the codes don't show and the engine revs above 3,000 rpm the internals are probably fine.
Not sure how many 1 degree pulses can be rough shaped or missing but it is probably at least 10 before hiccups start.
Always nice to have all the sensors as spares but other than MAF and TPS [wearing a bad spot at cruise] and of course knock sensor
-
elwesso
- Posts: 30810
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:52 pm
- Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT - Location: Indiana
- Contact:
Well what we are PROBABLY going to do is swap in my CAS from my Q and verify that its really the problem
It may also be the connector needs cleaning??
Id love to do all that stuff with the oscilloscope and such, but Im not that advanced.. If it dont work, put a new one in.. Even with that information I couldnt do anything with it.....
It may also be the connector needs cleaning??
Id love to do all that stuff with the oscilloscope and such, but Im not that advanced.. If it dont work, put a new one in.. Even with that information I couldnt do anything with it.....
-
Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
The point is they never go bad internally without specific signs.Changing them and resetting the timing correctly and precisely is time consumming..............vs cleaning the socket and connector plug pins.
Putting a new one on while the connector pins are dirty just creates another problem which you might ignore because you just change the CAS.........and that can't be it.
Putting a new one on while the connector pins are dirty just creates another problem which you might ignore because you just change the CAS.........and that can't be it.