need an affordable used VQ30DE for my 1996 i30...

The club for Nissan Maxima and Infiniti I30 / I35 owners, and the official home of Maxima Club of America!
stivkaye
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2010 6:01 pm
Car: 1996 Infiniti I30

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I think I may have seized my engine. I don't see any evidence of water in my oil or oil in the coolant but she stalled (going about 65 mph) the other day on the freeway and hasn't started since. And the temperature gauge was always where it should be. I'll have a mechanic check it out but I wanna be proactive since she's my only means of transportation.

I'm pretty strapped for cash these days so I need to get her back on the road asap but on a tight budget.

Anyone have any good experiences with a reliable & economic source for used engines?

And is there such thing as a JDM engine that'll pass CA smog?


I hope someone has a solid hook-up!

Thanks for a cool board...


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tigersharkdude
Posts: 2636
Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2007 7:14 am
Car: 1999 Nissan Maxima
Location: Nashville, TN

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The JDM engine is pretty much the same minus a few different parts, and different size's, such as 2.0 and 2.5

Check around local for an engine. Junkyards are your friend also.

When you try to turn the key does the car do anything? Does it crank but not start, or does it not crank at all? Do your lights work?

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maxhopper
Posts: 4364
Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2003 10:43 am
Car: 02 Maxima SE 6spd
Location: Kentucky

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Check out www.lkqcorp.com. I bought an engine from them a couple years ago. 6 month warranty, low miles, and a great price.

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loystock
Moderator
Posts: 2072
Joined: Sun Sep 21, 2003 9:12 pm
Car: 10 Honda Pilot
97 Infiniti Q45
03 Infiniti Q45
97 Infiniti I30
06 Infiniti M35 Sports
04 G35 & 99 I30-RIP
Location: San Jose, CA

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Replacing an engine is always expensive, used or otherwise. Looks like you didn't have an overheat nor major oil leak. Given your financial situation, do it only as a last resort. Better do some basic diagnostic as recommended by 'tiger.' It could be as simple as busted fuse, clogged fuel filter, failed fuel pump or dead alternator.

Check oil level is correct. Check for presence of transmission fluid (normal level is only attained if the engine is running and warm). Check the battery voltage, must be >12.5VDC to indicate a fully charged battery. The fuel pump is located in the tank, accessible behind the rear seat. Switch Ignition to ON (not START) and listen if the pump hums (runs) for @ 5 seconds (auto shutdown after 5 seconds). If not, maybe busted fuse or failed pump. If the pump runs yet the car won't start, could be due to clogged fuel filter (located at firewall, besides brake booster) or electrical issue.

Does the engine crank when you attempt to start it? A partially charged battery and/or dirty connections can cause starting problem. Make sure the battery connections are clean and secure and you don't have corrosion on the cables. If the voltage is is 12VDC or less, the battery is technically dead and is useless for starting. If the battery voltage is low and the connections are good, most like a 'dead' alternator. Try to jump start the car and see if it runs. If the car runs and dies once the jumpstart cables are removed, most likely a dead alternator.


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