need alot of help on my project, lots of little things

[poshatch]

ok hey everybody, ive had ALOT of bad luck lately and this project of mine i need to hurry and get off the ground so i have some questions i need help figuring out what it is

1. the check engine light goes off on acceleration, i think i have all the egr stuff ok but one vaccum line isnt in i dont know exactly where it goes do you think that could be it, the car never did that before not even when the egr was bypased it needs to pass smog so i need to diagnose this asap

2. my last clutch cooked my flywheel so i got a lightweight one and its brand new, i was very careful to be sure that everything was kept clean,i used an oem clutch that was used however but had a great amount of life on it and an oem pressure plate, i took the car for a quick spin and it gets going but on like half throttle or above it slips is there a breaking in process for the flywheel?

3. the car i got with no interior however it has a seat and seat belts and a dash and center consul but no carpet or anything, will this stop me in any way from getting the car registered and smogged??

thanks everybody, this project has been a huge hassle and its almost off the ground but i need to get these issues sorted out asap

[angelscrx]

Gutted interior shouldn't stop you from passing smog as it doesn't impact the safety of the vehicle.

Clutch and flywheel I believe they have a 500 mile break in period where they recommend not to mash it but drive normally but too sure.

[PyR0NiAk]

It's an S13 (obd1=pre95), so it shouldn't need the sniffer. I'm pretty sure it would just be a safety check. Carpet is considered a comfort item, not a requirement. As far as the flywheels, I would definitely drive for 500 miles at low rpm and light throttle to break it in.

[poshatch]

It's an S13 (obd1=pre95), so it shouldn't need the sniffer. I'm pretty sure it would just be a safety check. Carpet is considered a comfort item, not a requirement. As far as the flywheels, I would definitely drive for 500 miles at low rpm and light throttle to break it in.

thanks very much for both the replies. pre 95 dosnt need a sniffer test? the engine in my old car was a gem, it never caused me any problems, ran great, always started fine and ran smooth, it should pass with flying colors, i did my best to keep the EGR system connected when i swaped stuff over but some stuff came out i found the vaccum diagram and ill figure it out and get the visual inspection to be pass, i just dont know why the light is going off, i think its a exhaust leak/ that egr vaccum line combo ill work on it more tomorrow ive been working on it 8+ hours a day for like 4 days now so yeah

and the clutch was already used and should be broken in as well as the pressure plate, i sprayed both the flywheel and the pressure plate down with brake cleaner and cleaned it really toroughly and let it dry and what not before i installed the clutch so hopfully it will be ok after i break it in thanks this relieves me somewhat now

and the safety check, what would i need to pass that??, all the seat bolts are in the drivers seat, the lap belt i got to finaggle because its sorta stuck at the moment but im sure it will come out i just havnt tried just yet, the motor for the sholder belt works fine. also i dont have a passenger seat in there or rear seats so would that cause any problems as well?? thanks for all the help everybody

[PyR0NiAk]

Missing seats shouldn't matter. There is no law that states seats have to be installed. Just that passengers must be in a seat with a belt. They'll also do a visual inspection of your brakes and your tire tread. That should be it on an S13

[poshatch]

Missing seats shouldn't matter. There is no law that states seats have to be installed. Just that passengers must be in a seat with a belt. They'll also do a visual inspection of your brakes and your tire tread. That should be it on an S13

i got z32 fronts and ss lines all around with the pads having at minimum 50% meat left im not tripping off that inspection, as well as alot of tread left, ok good ive been really tripping off of this because i got this beat up shell and i dont care how it looks but i want it to be legal thanks for the help im gonna change the oil soon cause its about that time and run some seafoam threw it and check everything thoroughly before taking it in to get smogged

[Dattebayo]

pre 95 dosnt need a sniffer test?

It is different from state to state. Most will just hook up to your tail pipe, but removing you egr may or may not cause you to fail emissions. It all depends on how new your catalytic converter is.

[PyR0NiAk]

What states do sniffer pre95? NC is pretty strict and they don't. I can't think of any state that is strict enough to do something like that aside from Cali.

[poshatch]

pre 95 dosnt need a sniffer test?

It is different from state to state. Most will just hook up to your tail pipe, but removing you egr may or may not cause you to fail emissions. It all depends on how new your catalytic converter is.

really well i got three at my disposal so hopefully the one in there is pretty good. the egr is required to pass visual i believe

i live in california with the most stringent laws about smog

[PyR0NiAk]

Disregard everything I said, then. Good luck, buddy. I'm clueless about Cali. I know it was my last choice of duty station when I made my "dream sheet"

[Dattebayo]

really well i got three at my disposal so hopefully the one in there is pretty good. the egr is required to pass visual i believe

i live in california with the most stringent laws about smog

Kinda hard to tell where you live when you don't put it on your profile. You will not pass.

[poshatch]

my appologies for not stating where i lived. I will not pass because of what?...i need to know so i can fix it so that i can pass and i need all the help i can get in this matter

[Warped161]

unless i missed it before, your check engine light will fail you when they do the test itself on the machine. it includes bringing the car up to speed and what not. Ny also uses the sniffer on all pre obdII vehicles.

[poshatch]

unless i missed it before, your check engine light will fail you when they do the test itself on the machine. it includes bringing the car up to speed and what not. Ny also uses the sniffer on all pre obdII vehicles.

yea any check engine will cause it to fail, but i dont know why its going of now, the engine was PEFECT before the swap not even throwing an engine light in the last car even when the EGR valve was bypassed (had it byapssed due to headers) and now, after the swap nothing should be changed and its throwing the light on acceleration so i need help in diagnosing what could have changed, using the same ecu and harness still also im going to double check the EGR system and come back with details im thining its the O2 sensor or something probably or a plug isnt in all the way

[Warped161]

did you try pulling the code to see what the cpu says is wrong? sorry if this has been covered.

[poshatch]

is that possible without a special instrument? if so then im down to try it. ill be working on it tommorrow again for another 8 hours or so doing all the little things i need to do so ill inspect everything and post updated info tomorrow cause there shouldnt be any reason it should be acting differently in a different chasis

the slipping concerned me too but i guess flywheels need to be broken in too so hopefully it will start acting right otherwise im really screwed

[PyR0NiAk]

Not sure if KAs are like SRs in that there is a screw on the back. Turn it counter clockwise until it stops.. (Shouldn't need any real force to turn it.) Then turn the ignition key on. Your engine light or dash lights will flash a certain number of times. All you need to do is find something that tells you how to read the codes.

[poshatch]

ok so i have an update for everybody, i couldnt drive the car for long because the lip was on the ground and scraping way way too much so i only drove it like a half mile today but i got the egr all taken care of and the light is off so it should be ok for smog

now my concern is with the clutch and stuff

so does anybody know if flywheels need to be broken in?

because if not then im completely screwed because it slips when giving it more than half throttle, the clutch is oem used but with alot of meat on it and was recently swapped into an engine i got not too long ago in a deal with somebody i know so i put that in with a fresh oem pressure plate that had no hot spots that is also pretty new

i did some searching and read on a mustang forum that the new flywheels are reccomended to be cleaned with brake clean prior to installing and that they are coated with a substance that keeps it from rusting and that it may cause slippage until its fully burned off, i did clean it with brake clean so hopefully it will wear off soon and not slip anymore...

so can anybody shed some light onto the issue?? thanks everybody i really dont want to buy a clutch and pressure plate and swap that in after all this work but if i got to i got to

[PyR0NiAk]

I just answered this question in another thread. Maybe yours.. Maybe not.. Either way, you should break new flywheels and new clutches in for 500 miles before getting heavy on the throttle.

[poshatch]

I just answered this question in another thread. Maybe yours.. Maybe not.. Either way, you should break new flywheels and new clutches in for 500 miles before getting heavy on the throttle.

no it was this one, i wasnt sure if you were reffering to the clutch or the flywheel because the only new thing is the flywheel not the clutch the clutch should have been broken in but i will take your word for it and brake it in, it gets up to speed under normal throttle so i can only hope it needs braking in

[poshatch]

so i have an update.

when i connected the entire egr system initially and ran it it the light didnt go off but now it stays on from the second i turn on the car. any ideas? it didnt go off before when it was in my other chasis and everything is the same so im thinking that it could be the air collector solinoid (my box was cracked so i replaced the whole thing) or i got a vaccum line mixed up but i dont think so, or the o2 sensor may not be getting a good reading or and more likely

is there anything with the sohc to dohc swap wiring that would do this?

or any other thoughts, ive only drove the car about 15 miles so not enough to stop a slipping clutch it still slips a bit when i push it so im not gonna do it. at least it drives

[poshatch]

so i ran the codes like i was suggested i do and i got a code 34 which was the knock sensor on the ka24de

so yeah i guess that will need to be replaced

but before i do all the crap involved with replacing that little thing is there something on the sohc to dohc swap wiring that may have played a part in not reading the knock sensor properly?

[scotty-2-forty]

What kind of flywheel did you get (brand)? Because my next question directly relates to that. Did you research to see if the step-height was correct or if it needed to be modified? Also, the clutch that you reused, was it glazed at all? And yes, agreed with numerous other comments here ... there is a break-in time for new clutches.

[poshatch]

i did look to see if it needed to be modified and it dosnt and no the clutch wasnt glazed over, the whole reason i replaced it was i used a cheap f1`racing clutch thing thinking i only got 150 hp this thing can hold 200 hp it should be ok, naaaaa it developed hot spots in like 2 months on the flywheel and the pressure plate so i decided to go back to oem. i will be breaking in the flywheel it drives so hopefully it will just work its way in and be ok, if after 500 miles or it slips more and more then i will replace it AGAIN but time with a superior clutch (i believe he makes them in house and my friend has one and its amazing!)

my main concern is the light though, the knock sensor seems important and if its malfunctioning that could be very bad. got to replace it asap...the ecu was only throwing the code 34 over and over so it should only be that one problem...

been looking at that step by step e to de swap and it shouldnt be any wiring that would cause that. the engine ran ok while the light was still on but now that i know its the knock sensor i dont want to run it that much since its important is it not?

and also i think it was just the timing of the whole thing, im sure it needed to be replaced just happened to go out when i was doing the swap?