Need advice. first ka-t.

[zenkiderek]

I am starting my first KA-t set up and have read through the various ka-t n00b threads on here, ka-t, and zilvia.

Trying to decide between a few options.

I know a guy locally who was starting a ka-t swap and ended up going sr. He bought a KADE and started building it (has not been installed). It has:-Eagle Rods-Arias Pistons-BC 264 cams-exhaust/intake manifolds with a T25-5 speed transmission (i'm auto and will be going 5 speed)-ACT stage 3-OEM gasket kit-sr injectors-alternator-ARP head studs

he wants $2,000.

I would then buy:-FMIC-DP-SAFC II-Walbro- Z32 MAF-transmission swap parts

OR

JGS kit without wastegate (i have one)/turbo-t28-Walbro-safc ii-z32-sr injectors-5 speed swap parts

I am also considering getting the kit and the motor.

I'm having a tough time deciding if I should buy his stuff (minus the T25) or just go with the kit. I have a KADE in my 1995 240sx with 160,XXX mi and has had no issues the 14 months I've owned it. No smoke, no burning oil, no leaks. Timing chain rattles, but that will be replaced if I end up using this motor. Need to compression test it to be safe.

My goals are a safe 250whp. Budget is $3,500 but I would like to go as cheap as SAFELY possible.

Just looking for input from people with more experience than me.

[Doya]

If the motor you have now is in good condition with no problems, and with your HP goals only being 250 HP, you don't really need a built motor. Just put that money towards turboing what you got and a 5 speed swap.

Also, IMO, ditch the SAFC and z32 mafs and get yourself a FMU.

[zenkiderek]

Thanks for the input. Any FMU suggestions?

EDIT: I was reading the sticky on FMU's and people are saying 370cc + SAFC II is safer for 240whp.
Modified by zenkiderek at 1:44 PM 11/9/2009

[Chris28]

If you have the cash I say go for an ECU tune, it's the safest option of them all.

For 250hp your stock engine is fine. A bottom mount t28 setup will yield you about 250hp. If you ever get tired of your power level then you won't have much room to upgrade, however. The JGS kit is a great kit and allows you more room to upgrade, but more expensive. Rethink your power goals and go from there.

[zenkiderek]

the reason why i was thinking t28 is on the JGS turbo kit thread, I read the t3 they use is poor quality and my friend has a t28 from an rb20 that he is willing to sell for cheap but he said it's too small for my ka.

also another buddy has a v-afc and says it's the same as the safc II with the addition of vtec control. is this true? he only wants $100.

sorry for all the n00b questions

[neverlift]

if you only want 250whp t3 with an fmu should cover it...

bout 8psi "should" cover it... Guys put down 350 with 15psi all day...

I should have dyno results at the end of this month, hoping to bust 300 up real good with 11psi, maybe 12. I have a tiny t3, but would take it over a t2 frame... been there...

the rb turbo is a t3 flanged turbo that is BB with ceramic turbine and is actually a t28.

[Doya]

Thanks for the input. Any FMU suggestions?

EDIT: I was reading the sticky on FMU's and people are saying 370cc + SAFC II is safer for 240whp.

Modified by zenkiderek at 1:44 PM 11/9/2009

Wrong SAFC's are crap. If you are a FMU phobic like some other people on here, just get a ROM tune. It sounds like you have the money for one anyway.

[zenkiderek]

I like the thought of FMU. It seems cheap and reliable. The reason why I don't want to ROM yet is I'm not sure 250whp is where I'll stay. Right now I'm just trying to safely get started. And by safe, I mean doing it right.

[zenkiderek]

also, from what I understand. If I go FMU I will want to ditch the 370cc injectors for now and stay with the stockers. Correct?

[Doya]

Yup. Keep your stock injectors if you decide to use an FMU.

[neverlift]

also, from what I understand. If I go FMU I will want to ditch the 370cc injectors for now and stay with the stockers. Correct?

Yes sell them off and get larger injectors, I think its a waste to spend that much on a rom tune and its limit is barely more than an fmu setup. s*** spend the extra coin that you would have on SS braided lines and dual fuel pumps. Then you can do more than 8psi safely.

[zenkiderek]

I'm thinking the BEGi 8:1 fmu.

This is my drift car so I'm assuming a recirc would be more beneficial than an atmospheric correct?

[neverlift]

yes you want to recirc it, turbo will spool back up faster. Or you could go no bov, I am currently running without one, till I stop being lazy and plumbing in my freddy. IMHO you want it on the hotpipe going back into the pre turbo after the maf. Also my 'drift car', I daily it, over my truck with better mileage and more comfort

But do note I get flutter that occasionally causes a slight stumble.

Is that the adjustable unit? Those a sweet if you have a dyno to play with it till you get the most out of it. 8:1 is a debatable ratio at this time. I am over fueled(BUT SAFE!) on a 7:1 and that was everything stock(fuel pressure, stock afm...) my .02

[zenkiderek]

Okay thanks for the help. The reason why I ask is I have a brand new RFL that came with my daily but wasn't installed.

Haha that's how my CA was.

I believe it is. On the page it never says "adjustable," but I think it is. I also think we have a dyno here, but I'm not sure about that either. WD was saying 6:1 is the way to go for a low boost set up. I'm only looking for 6-8psi so that might be best for my set up.

[neverlift]

go with the 6:1 and purchase a cheep adjustable fuel pressure regulator if the begi is not adjustable. I have my base fuel pressure well below stock allowing me more psi on the fmu side.

Works pretty good, daily 8~11psi, drift session(s) weekly. Speaking of it is raining

If the rfl can be recirculated go for it, vta is cool and all but faster spool is important, being 'kewl' is not. Hell I am thinking of selling off my freddy and using the smaller denso recirc valve I have(plenty of them on probes/turbo 626's) To be honest flutter sounds better then cchirp whistle

[zenkiderek]

i'll definitely look into it

it just started raining here but my lsd doesn't like the fact that i have two diff sized tires in the rear so the 240 gets no love until i get new wheels/tires.

I'll look into it, why not use what I already have.

yeah i liked the sound hahaha

[supra33202]

JGS kit is for T3 turbo, but you want to get T28 (t2 turbo)? In that case, you need some sort of adapter. And I don't think it is recommended to do it this way.

If you want go with bottom mounted T28, read

zerothread?id=446516

[zenkiderek]

I decided to just go with the t3 that comes with the kit. Thanks anyway though!

[WDRacing]

I'll jump in here with some awsome advice later on today...little busy this morning and I have to change my fantasy football line-up so I don't lose to one of our Admins...lol.

[angrypenguin182]

noob question here, and sorry for hi-jacking here, not that im complaining, but why would he be able to keep his stock injectors w/ the fmu?

[DMan II-40]

noob question here, and sorry for hi-jacking here, not that im complaining, but why would he be able to keep his stock injectors w/ the fmu?

Because using an FMU increases his fuel pressure, allowing for the stockers to flow more. If he upgrades the injectors then he will need a tune to make them function properly. Correct?

[Doya]

Yes sir

[WDRacing]

the reason why i was thinking t28 is on the JGS turbo kit thread, I read the t3 they use is poor quality and my friend has a t28 from an rb20 that he is willing to sell for cheap but he said it's too small for my ka.

also another buddy has a v-afc and says it's the same as the safc II with the addition of vtec control. is this true? he only wants $100.

sorry for all the n00b questions

RB20 came with a T3, I owned 2 R32's and still have one of the turbo's in my garage. That's a great turbo, it has ceramic ball bearings instead of bushings and will last forever if not pushed more then 14psi.

Forget the SAFC, it's crap.

What I would do.

Get the JGS manifold with a T3 flange. Also grab their oil supply/return kit. Yes you can find all the pieces cheaper yourself, but theirs is affordable and works very well. Remember the RB20 is a ball bearing turbo and requires a very small restrictor placed inline between the block and the turbo oil inlet, these are readily available online.

You'll need a custom down pipe made for the RB20 turbo, but that's not very difficult for anyone that's welded longer then 1 month

I'd use 550cc injectors at the very least.

300ZX (N62) MAF or the N60 if you get a really good deal on one.

Rom Tune that matches the injectors and MAF. Figure out what tune you want to go with before purchasing the other stuff, makes it far easier. 550/N62 or 72lb/N62 are common tunes and are available from 3 reliable tuners that I can think of off hand JWT, Enthalpy and EFI Specialists. EFI Spec being the most affordable.

EBay FMIC kit made for your car.

Bosche Bypass Valve.

If you push that turbo using the above setup you'll probably hit 300whp. But it'll make a nice safe no lag 250whp all day for years.

WD

[zenkiderek]

Thanks for the response! That was very helpful.