Need advice buying a 1970 240Z

[logan1]

Hi,I am new to the performance car market and am looking to buy a nice Z car. I found a 1970 240Z on Craigslist for $2000 and wanted some advice as to whether or not it was worth the money. Also i am 6'4" @240lbs so would a 240Z be too small for me?

I have not yet seen the car in person since it is 150 miles from my location. But i have a few details i found out by talking to the owner.

Current with 2nd owner (First owner wants to talk to whoever buys the car)Mileage = 78KBuild date November 1970Titles as a 1971 due to production delaysWindshield brokenRear passenger break jammed (leaking fluid)New Clutch with less than 20 miles on itEngine starts and runsSome Rust Fender wellSome rust in the corners or doorsRust in the spot that the windshield wipers come up.

These are the only pictures i have of the car at the moment.

[logan1]

I intend to use the car as a daily driver. Could you guys give me the approx cost that would be incurred to restore this car?

[evildky]

cost of resotoration depends ont eh qulity fo the car and the quality of a restore you want, if you want a blue ribbon car expect to spend $10k on paint alone!

rust si the big issue, for every inch you see there si a foot hiding, take a good hard lok at the floor pans, look int he spart tire well, look at the hatch lip, look at the frame rrails where the sway bar mounts, looks whee the strut towers meet the inner finder, look at where the reinfircement plate is on the outside of the frame rail behind the front tires, looks and the front and rear fo the rocker panels

thsi looks to be a series 1 chassis, should have a vin number of under 20k, being in november is should be around 11k

I know a guy that has built a couple of best of show winners and I believe he has around $20k tied up in each

[logan1]

not really looking to make it a show car. I just want to have a good daily driver that is dependable and fun to drive. I suppose i'll have to address the rust issue at some time but for now i just want to fix it up and drive it a bit.

[hatchs13]

Check your floor pans for rust, frame rails, look behind the front tires in the wheel wells and right under there, make sure there isn't any bad rust, the biggest problem with older z cars like this is the rust, if the rust isn't there, from the pics the car looks nice, even still has the badges on it.

[evildky]

my point was it's far cheaper to start wiht a good solid chassis with mechanical problems than to start with a rusty car with good mechanicals

the mechanicals are the cheap part, these cars are pretty cheap and easy to work on without a lot of complex or expensive parts

if you are ok wiht the rust and paint condition ont he car go for it, the rust repair and paint is th expensive part

[logan1]

Ok so i went and saw the car yesterday...

1970 240ZVIN: 11015 (not sure of the exact number buy it in the 11K range)4 Speed manualMileage: 78KInterior: Black in decent conditionSU CarbsHeaders and Twice PipeSnyder Cams

RUST: Surface Rust on Frame Rails Rust on Front Fenders Rust on Rear Fenders Rockers are good

OTHER REPAIRS: Rear passenger brake slave cylinder needs new O-rings Windshield and Weather stripping needs to be replaced.

The seller is willing to take $1800 fro the car.

[evildky]

if the chassis is as rust free as you describe it's well worth the money, depending on what part of the country you are in, in TX aany rust is unacceptable, in MI giant holes int eh floorboards are acceptable