Need Advice Before Getting Towed to Dealer

[Q45green]

Bought 1997 Q45 yesterday and drove it home. Seemed to run fine.This morning car started fine and put car in garage.This evening car won't start. Engine turns over nicely, but won't catch.Any thoughts on potential problems? I'd like to avoid being completely clueless when I have it towed to the dealer.

[qship96]

Press accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and HOLD it there while you crank the starter for up to 20 seconds, it should start. Your starting it and moving into garage then shutting it off before engine warmed up probably flooded it, common on these Q45 motors.

[Q45tech]

Unless one is an expert on the exact year and model purchased, a smart consummer hires an expert to test and evaluate a USED CAR before the purchase.Spending a few hundred [even multiple times] before making a selection can often save you thousands.

Every used car forsale has at least $3,000 in defects [costs to restore to near new operation]. Some can require 3 times as much and the paint and interior still look brand new. Most dealers and lots just slap on a new set of tires and a new battery and sell as is after a detailing.

Common reason for towing is a flooded vehicle from new used owners not reading and studying owners manual.

[Q45green]

Thanks for your advice. Unfortunately, I still couldn't get the car to start.

After I tried holding the accelerator down while cranking I tried with my foot on the brake. I could feel the brake pedal release as if the engine were starting up, but it promptly died.

Are there any other things I can try?

If not, what are the most likely culprits, aside from flooding the engine?

[mtzgr777]

When I first bought my Q (just over a month ago) it had a similar problem. I test drove it and it ran perfect. On the way home from the guys house, I stopped by a Mobil station and filled it up with some 93 Octane . When I started the car, it died about 4 seconds later. I started it again, same thing. I started it a 3rd time and gave it a little gas and she didn't stall this time. I drove her home and she seemed to run fine. To my disbelief, as I was parking it I saw the Check Engine Light come on! I looked for any obvious things that may have triggered this, but came up with nothing. I took her to AutoZone the next day and they plugged it in and it came up with a Knock Sensor code as well as a Idle Control Code. I put some Fuel Injector cleaner in there and ran her hard over the next 5 days. I also replaced the battery with a much newer 800 CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) Duralast Gold. She's started, idled and ran great ever since. Not sure on how to start a completely flooded car like yours, I'm just letting you know there's still hope. It doesn't always mean you just wasted your money or were scammed by the previous owner, things happen....Just keep trying and good luck!

[qship96]

When I first bought my Q (just over a month ago) it had a similar problem. I test drove it and it ran perfect. On the way home from the guys house, I stopped by a Mobil station and filled it up with some 93 Octane . When I started the car, it died about 4 seconds later. I started it again, same thing. I started it a 3rd time and gave it a little gas and she didn't stall this time. I drove her home and she seemed to run fine. To my disbelief, as I was parking it I saw the Check Engine Light come on! I looked for any obvious things that may have triggered this, but came up with nothing. I took her to AutoZone the next day and they plugged it in and it came up with a Knock Sensor code as well as a Idle Control Code. I put some Fuel Injector cleaner in there and ran her hard over the next 5 days. I also replaced the battery with a much newer 800 CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) Duralast Gold. She's started, idled and ran great ever since. Not sure on how to start a completely flooded car like yours, I'm just letting you know there's still hope. It doesn't always mean you just wasted your money or were scammed by the previous owner, things happen....Just keep trying and good luck!

Bet if you scan the computer, you still have a knock sensor code .....only way to fix this is to replace the knock sensors which requires plenum removal.....until you do this you have never experienced your engines true power potential.

[mtzgr777]

Your right. I probably do still have the knock sensor code, I'm accepting the fact that I'm not seeing its full potential, I just don't have the money right now. One of these days I'll bite the bullet and replace them along with the plenum and spark plugs, but until then I'll have to deal with it.

[Infinitiguy19]

Bet if you scan the computer, you still have a knock sensor code .....only way to fix this is to replace the knock sensors which requires plenum removal.....until you do this you have never experienced your engines true power potential.

Hate to get off topic:

Didn't you say that the Knock Sensors on your car did not affect anything?

I suppose the previous maintenance has alot to do with it though.

[qship96]

On my Q, the only difference I felt after replacing the knock sensors was better part throttle "tip in" acceleration, less lag at light throttle- I am guessing the more powerful computing of obd2 somehow somewhat compensates for defective knockers compared to the 90-95Q obd1 based on other members reporting more serious lack of performance due to defective knockers????

[troy3399]

Thanks for your advice. Unfortunately, I still couldn't get the car to start.

After I tried holding the accelerator down while cranking I tried with my foot on the brake. I could feel the brake pedal release as if the engine were starting up, but it promptly died.

Are there any other things I can try?

If not, what are the most likely culprits, aside from flooding the engine?

The method of depress gas pedal while cranking the engine apply when you have bad IAC ( idle air control valve) but ur car still start you either not getting spark or fuel.

Since you bought your Q few days ago and that car sit in car lot for who knows how long... I would take that battery to Autozone, Advance for free battery check.

Next step check for fuel pump operation. Turn the key on ( not start engine) did you hear whinning sound from back seat from apr 5 seconds? If not check fuel pump relay and all relays.

If you have 12 volts test light ( test light look like this http://i.ehow.com/images/Globa...l.jpg)check all relays inside passenger, engine compartment. Make sure check igition switch, starter motor, Starter Solenoid Switch

Next step check for spark, unplug #1 igition coil and connect good spark plug while someone cranking engine, did you see spark?

If you do all that engine still not run come back to this forum there are addition steps you can do

[Q45green]

You are right! I need an expert.

Any Q45 experts in Long Beach CA interested in a job?

[Q451990]

The method of depress gas pedal while cranking the engine apply when you have bad IAC ( idle air control valve) but ur car still start you either not getting spark or fuel.

Wrong again - this is becoming quite a trend for you.

Depressing the gas pedal all the way is a way of signaling the ECU to stop sending fuel. The program is written to recognize the WOT/Kickdown switch combined with the start signal as an effort to start a flooded car. During normal cranking, the car fires the injectors in a batch sequence for an extra hit of fuel. It's like a choke, but instead of cutting off the air to make the mixture rich - they're adding fuel.

The downside is that in the case of a quick start-up and shut down (like moving the car from one space to another) especially in cold weather, a driver can flood the engine. It's important to warm the engine up to operating temperature before shutting it down.

I'm not conviced that this is the issue in this case - but the "flooded start" procedure is important for everyone here to know.

Heath

[troy3399]

Wrong again - this is becoming quite a trend for you.

Depressing the gas pedal all the way is a way of signaling the ECU to stop sending fuel. The program is written to recognize the WOT/Kickdown switch combined with the start signal as an effort to start a flooded car. During normal cranking, the car fires the injectors in a batch sequence for an extra hit of fuel. It's like a choke, but instead of cutting off the air to make the mixture rich - they're adding fuel.

The downside is that in the case of a quick start-up and shut down (like moving the car from one space to another) especially in cold weather, a driver can flood the engine. It's important to warm the engine up to operating temperature before shutting it down.

I'm not conviced that this is the issue in this case - but the "flooded start" procedure is important for everyone here to know.

Heath

Q45 guru my a**. Your advice is just another post for this tread. If he do it right I'm sure his car will start before he spend few grands at dealer for such simple job.

[loystock]

Q45 guru my a**. Your advice is just another post for this tread. If he do it right I'm sure his car will start before he spend few grands at dealer for such simple job.

Troy3399: Please stop giving advice in this forum UNLESS you really know what the resolution to the problem is. And if you made a mistake, be gracious enough to admit it. At least 4 threads in this forum went downhill because of your erroneous recommendations and bad-mouthing other people when they corrected you. You have to observe proper decorum.

You need to learn more about the Q45. Buying a used 95Q with 122K miles in it and doing basic servicing does not make you an expert on this car. You don’t even know how the cabin lights in your car work. You need to read the ‘stickies’ and other threads in this forum and download a copy of the FSM in order get to know the Q better. You may have experience with other cars but…

I have 5 Infinitis and have done maintenance and repair on them for so many years yet I cannot claim expertise in these cars. I still listen to the gurus in this forum. I do make recommendation off and on, though. I have worked with other Japanese, American and European cars, back to the days of carburetors, distributors-ignition wires, drum brakes, etc., but lots of these ‘tribal knowledge’ no longer apply in modern cars. And please, I’m not a car mechanic. I just love working with cars.

Greg and Wes: NICO is still the best car club – no doubt about it. The Q45 forum used to be the best in the planet but it’s been chaotic lately. There are brilliant threads but some are just downright crazy. I know I’m just a regular user and maybe a voice in the wilderness but I hate to see this forum go the way of the original Yahoo Infiniti Car club. Nowadays, I hangout more in the I30/Maxima and M/Fuga forums and only occasionally go to this Q45/Cima forum for reasons above.I’m not against ‘lively’ discussions but personal insults must be avoided as much as possible, especially if you were wrong. I suggest giving a WARNING to this particular user, “troy3399,” and if he persisted with his attitude, should be sent into EXILE.

Rod

[troy3399]

wow another idiot lol. Ever heard of free society? Why dont you and Qship96, Q451990 get in a room and do ya'll love thing, I won't complaint about that

[jltibbs]

wow another idiot lol. Ever heard of free society? Why dont you and Qship96, Q451990 get in a room and do ya'll love thing, I won't complaint about that

I would learn some proper netiquette if I were you. Your attitude and advice (from what I've read) sucks. It's an old saying, but it's ever so true here: "Shape up or ship out".

[troy3399]

I would learn some proper netiquette if I were you. Your attitude and advice (from what I've read) sucks. It's an old saying, but it's ever so true here: "Shape up or ship out".

Thank you missy

[Rex]

Lets be clear here. You are on strike 2, strike 3 gets you a 1 week "vacation" at a minimum.

Now lets get back to productively discussing automotive issues. Thanks

To the Original Poster - Luckily, I learned this lesson on cars that were easier to change/remove plugs. Heath nailed it ...

... The downside is that in the case of a quick start-up and shut down (like moving the car from one space to another) especially in cold weather, a driver can flood the engine. It's important to warm the engine up to operating temperature before shutting it down.

[troy3399]

Lets be clear here. You are on strike 2, strike 3 gets you a 1 week "vacation" at a minimum.

Now lets get back to productively discussing automotive issues. Thanks

To the Original Poster - Luckily, I learned this lesson on cars that were easier to change/remove plugs. Heath nailed it ...

You think I give a f.uck about this? Come on let get real here, Damn

[Q45tech]

Time to raise money for a hitman, obviously a defective gene pool at that IP address. Some people just insist on being punished.

We need an evil prayer list where everyone can send a united mental image of a transmission failure to those that insist on misbehavior.