Need a SAFC neo or Wide Band

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
ssavage4
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Just did an Rb25 swap in my 93 240sx and got everything in and runs good but very rich needs a tune. It has a Greddy intake plenum Greddy front mount Greddy timing belt and gears...... and more just looking for a SAFC neo and a wide band or if anyone has anything else that will work good just need a tune very bad.Thanks Stew


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toadx8u
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get up with carl h i dont think hes to far from you...he can burn you a prom to fix your issue

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Coolwhip
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question: do you have an adjustable FPR on this motor?

l0nestar
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Negative Ghostrider. you can't really burn roms for the 25, only the 20 & 26.

With the 25, you either need a new EMS, or a NisTune board. Or a Z32 ECU.

ssavage4
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another question to i want to put an oil pressure gauge in it any tips or good spots on the motor to use or do i have to drill and tap somewhere on the block?ThanksStew

Joe
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every week we deal with this

how do you know youre running rich?

and a SAFC does not work too well on a RB25. the ecu is smarter than a go between "tuner"

ssavage4
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It lags real bad low end and you can tell it needs a tune just idling its running real rich any suggestions. I dont have a real good way to explain it just the way its running and another guy that i know did an Rb swap had the same problem and tuned it with an SAFC and it runs great now just trying to get this thing tuned. ThanksStew

Joe
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whats your timing set at.

ssavage4
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timing is set at 20 degrees.

Sil240
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If your gonna spend your $.Go for the Wideband, so you can tell whats really going on.

What fuel pump are you running?When people run Walbro's they tend to run richer. That's why everyone usually goes for a Adjustable FPR.

Check your Interfooler piping, your BOV and your Vaccum lines.1 way to check BUT BE VERY CAREFUL!!!!Get a can of WD40 and spray anywhere you suspect could be leaking, with the engine running.If there is a leak, then you will hear the idle waver.

WD40 is flammable, engines are hot.So again becareful!!!

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SullivanRacing06
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Car: r32 gtst, 06 350z, r32 gtr, rs4 steaga, 04 350z, f350/6bt
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get a wide band first, secong a adjustable fpr, do you have a walbro in tank?

im using a afc neo ONLY because a frined of mine had one and owed me a hundred bucks, i decided watever and threw it on there for TEMP use only, im planning on getting a fc or aem.

another thing try nistune (if you have someone whos familiar with the software) and tune that way.

ssavage4
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Im running a walbro fuel pump in the tank. What FPR are you running and at what psi?? ThanksStew

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SullivanRacing06
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for now i have a stillen, being replaced i na week or two for a aermotive an1000 fpr and an1000 pump and a fuel cell with a 4l surge tank, ive got my psi set at 45psi, do you have a fuel pressure gauge?

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Nissan2367
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I have the walbro 255lph pump, Aeromotive AN1000 with stock fuel rail and injectors. I am running 43psi with the vac line off.Also get a wideband first. No one should buil a turbo motor without one! I have the AEM and love it.

ssavage4
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I have a fuel pressure regulator with a gauge on it and I havent had time to get a few things wired up yet and havent got all the guages yet. So 43psi Or 45psi should be good to set it at

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SullivanRacing06
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well to set it at, try 43 psi, thats stock fuel pressure, get a aem wide band before anything else, its the best mod you can do! trust me! itll sabve your motor now or later

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Carl H
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if you like pissing into the wind and wasting money then buy an aem.high failure rate on sensors and it wont even bother telling you that its going bad...example friends neo the aem uego claims its chilling at 16.5:1 at idle but runs smooth...riiiiiiight.

ssavage4
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I ordered an innovate motorsports wideband and im going to with a nismo type-a fpr it should help out the cold starts.

Largekid
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Carl H wrote:if you like pissing into the wind and wasting money then buy an aem.high failure rate on sensors and it wont even bother telling you that its going bad...example friends neo the aem uego claims its chilling at 16.5:1 at idle but runs smooth...riiiiiiight.
i've seen countless people use teh uego w/o any problems. If you replace the sensor as they ask, you should be just fine... but if I was to do it again, I would buy a innovate cause to get the AEM to link to the PFC is a ***** and a half.

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WhatsADSM
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Carl H wrote:if you like pissing into the wind and wasting money then buy an aem.high failure rate on sensors and it wont even bother telling you that its going bad...example friends neo the aem uego claims its chilling at 16.5:1 at idle but runs smooth...riiiiiiight.
Carl, have your buddy check to make sure he has no exhaust leaks. Even a small leak (up or down stream) can make any UEGO read significantly lean at idle. An easy way to know if it is running right is if you know the stock narrowband is good, and the ECU is closing the loop around the narrowband. Even with a small exhuast leak the UEGO should read the standard 14.7ish:1 under a highway cruise. If your buddies car reads off at idle, but correct at a highway cruise then most likely an exhuast leak is the culprit.

Although I will admit I have heard the controller in the AEM UEGO is pretty basic.. Basic enough that it doesn't calibrate correctly and instead gives you incorrect readings as the sensor ages... Which is big enough non refuted rumor to make me think my next wideband will be something else.
Largekid wrote:i've seen countless people use teh uego w/o any problems. If you replace the sensor as they ask, you should be just fine... but if I was to do it again, I would buy a innovate cause to get the AEM to link to the PFC is a ***** and a half.
That's really weird. The AEM UEGO uses a 'standard' voltage output... it should have been a cakewalk to interface to just about any standalone. Just as easy as the innovate, NGK, or PLX.Gasoline AFRs are 10:1 AFR = 0v and 20:1 AFR = 5v. In PFC you just go to the auxiliaries menu and tell it 0v = 10 and 5v = 20 on the input you ran from the gauge. Simple as that.

Largekid
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I wish it was that easy...the PFC takes a analog input signal and the AEM unit outputs a digital. You can play w/ the parameters to get it to read close...but it will never be exact unfortunately.

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eh?
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Largekid wrote:I wish it was that easy...the PFC takes a analog input signal and the AEM unit outputs a digital. You can play w/ the parameters to get it to read close...but it will never be exact unfortunately.
That can't be right. You would never get it anywhere close if it were digital. The Uego says it has a 0-5V analog output. http://forum.aempower.com/foru...=4370

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WhatsADSM
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Largekid wrote:I wish it was that easy...the PFC takes a analog input signal and the AEM unit outputs a digital. You can play w/ the parameters to get it to read close...but it will never be exact unfortunately.
This is incorrect!

The AEM gauge has both a serial output (blue wire), to do stuff like datalogging with a laptop and hyperterminal.

But also has a standard 0-5v output (white wire).

I did a google search for the instruction manual:http://www.schnitzracing.com/manuals/AEMWBK.pdf

Page 4 has the wires listed. Pages 5-6 show the analog output table.

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SullivanRacing06
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sensor
Carl H wrote:if you like pissing into the wind and wasting money then buy an aem.high failure rate on sensors and it wont even bother telling you that its going bad...example friends neo the aem uego claims its chilling at 16.5:1 at idle but runs smooth...riiiiiiight.
was mounted to close to the outlet of the turbo, aem says to install sensor 36" away from the outlet of the turbo in the instruction booklet

RB24D
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Car: 1996 rb25det 240

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I wil be tuning my car via power fc and commander pro cable hooked to laptop .What sensor can I get to monitor wide band with out getting all the other bull **** that comes with it .I heard a certian gm one will work?

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Carl H
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a wideband o2 sensor needs a dedicated controller there is no drop in unit for these cars as they do not have wideband controlling circutry.

Largekid
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WhatsADSM wrote:
This is incorrect!

The AEM gauge has both a serial output (blue wire), to do stuff like datalogging with a laptop and hyperterminal.

But also has a standard 0-5v output (white wire).

I did a google search for the instruction manual:http://www.schnitzracing.com/manuals/AEMWBK.pdf

Page 4 has the wires listed. Pages 5-6 show the analog output table.
I was backwards, my bad. The PFC only takes a digital while the AEM uses a analog signal. The blue wire sends a signal that only the AEM EMS can read properly. There are ways around it, they have been talked about on the datalogit yahoo group, but it is not a direct wire in and go ordeal. I love my AEM unit though and will keep it...just pointing out facts for someone researching the topic i guess.


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