In that price range, a Type-R would be a good fit. Also, I've heard good things about this amp. Not sure where to find those amps at stores, but you can definitely find them on eBay. That will have too much power for the Type-R, so you'll have to set the gains correctly. Like I said, I've heard lots of good things about the Hifonics Brutus amps (I've never run one personally). They seem to be great budget level amps that will out perform most others in their price range.losenone wrote:Apple, thanks for the quick reply.
My budget for the amp/sub is about $300-400. I'm pretty sure im going to be swapping out for a D3 as well, found a few on ebay for ~400
As far as the box, idk if i want to get the custom box for the trunk as its almost 3 times the price.
Like I said before, check the gain setting tutorial in the FAQ in my signature. You did end up with the 1042D, correct? If so, the sub can be wired down to a 2-ohm load for that amp. The amp is capable of pushing 900 watts RMS at that impedance. I've heard of people running that much power on a Type-R for extended periods of time, but I would be careful. Last thing you want to do is blow that sub. If I were you, I'd try to set it so that the sub is seeing closer to the recommended 500 watts RMS (maybe as much as 600 can be done safely). Just be careful so you don't blow your nice new sub, and you'll be able to enjoy it for a long while.losenone wrote:Great, thanks again. I just placed an order for the R-Type and the amp you recommended. Came out to $344 with free shipping.
Now back to my D3 auctions! Im gonna try and get this D3 from a local seller and get it all installed this weekend =] Ill let you know how it turns out.
Sorry, I was referring to the sub with the 1042D. I just wanted to make sure you got the dual four ohm VC sub and not a dual two ohm sub. The dual four ohm will be easier to wire and safer on the amp. Good luck on the HU auctions.losenone wrote:I got the 1208D. Its rated 450W @ 4 ohms, 900W @ 2 ohms and 1200W @ 1 ohm.
Well, that partially depends on what kind of sound you're looking for. A sealed box will be smaller and should hit cleaner, but wont get quite as loud and boomy. A ported box will need to be a bit bigger, but will be louder and less clean. Also, you'll need to make sure you don't feed frequencies too much below the port frequency or you could damage the sub. My vote is always sealed, but that is completely a matter of personal preference. If you go sealed, you should probably try to get a box around 0.75 cubes and then it would have to fit in our little trunk. If you go ported, look for something around 1.1-1.3 cubes and a port frequency tuned somewhere between 30-35 Hz probably. It might be hard to find a box with those dimensions that fits cleanly in our trunk. The best way would be to make one yourself, but this is definitely more time consuming than buying one pre-built. If you decide to build yourself, let us know and I can throw some pointers out there.losenone wrote:Ahh, sorry about that. Yeah I got the 1042D.
Ebay sucks. I hate losing auctions in the last 10 seconds lol.
EDIT: Apple or anyone else, what box would be recommend for the R-Type sub, im trying to not take up my whole trunk.
Haha. Yeah, I built my box, but it's fiberglass and would require removing the extra stuff in the trunk. Also, it's by no means perfect. In fact, Doc's box is much better manufactured than mine.CoutureCoupe wrote:Apple, did you fabricate your sub box? If so I would recommend going into business and selling it on the forum. I have no idea what you were just referring to regarding cubes, ported, sealed, etc.
But I would certainly trust you to make a box that would bump!
I posted my old deck on craigslist and someone contacted me about it, says he runs his own side business and he can get me a suitable box. So we shall see! And tells me he can get a D3 from his job, of cours after I paypal someone else for it! :[AppleBonker wrote:
Haha. Yeah, I built my box, but it's fiberglass and would require removing the extra stuff in the trunk. Also, it's by no means perfect. In fact, Doc's box is much better manufactured than mine.
In response to the rest, cubes is referring to cubic feet. Sorry I didn't make that clearer. Making a box out of MDF is relatively simple (I made my first one with my dad when I was 16). Making a ported box is slightly more difficult than sealed, but there are diagrams all over the internet for constructing one with a given internal volume and port frequency.
I wish I had the free time to build boxes for people on the forums. However, there's not much money in it (and I'm certainly not one to rip people on here off) and shipping gets outrageous. But that's why I offer to help guide people through wherever possible.
Oh yeah, and there's some info on enclosure types in the FAQ in my signature for some info. Plenty more info on the interwebs though...
Excellent! I'm glad you're happy with your purchases. The Brutus amp is definitely not the best on the market, but for the price you paid, I doubt you could really get anything better. It is an excellent amp and should treat you well for its lifetime! Let's get some pics up!losenone wrote:UPDATE:
Everything is installed including the D3 and it sounds amazing. Thanks again Apple, he opened up the Brutus amp and just said yeah, this thing is awesome and will last you forever.
Ill have to snatch up someones camera and take some pics. I still dont have one, and i dont even have a camera on the phone. Damn Blackberry 8830.AppleBonker wrote:
Excellent! I'm glad you're happy with your purchases. The Brutus amp is definitely not the best on the market, but for the price you paid, I doubt you could really get anything better. It is an excellent amp and should treat you well for its lifetime! Let's get some pics up!
I love how it glows at night. Now i need to get my EQ settings down straight.AppleBonker wrote:Looks good. For whatever reason I really like the way that amp looks.
As far as the sub, I would def pass the question by AppleBonker. Hes the man when it comes to AV stuffLittleMan wrote:not bad setup. iv been doing car audio for a bit and mine is is almost like urs. I have 6.5 & 6x9 kappa 3ways with a single 10" punch hx2 rite now. bd800.4 for my cones and db1000.1 for my sub. the bad thing about punch amp is that they require 13.5 power supply so u must get a capacitor to get the power rating. so I picked up a tsunami 5 farad cap. im looking to get a new sub cuz my amp is pushing the peek for the sub. Im looking at DD, W7, or RE sub. maybe just be cheap and get a w6...
i built a band pass box for my coupe and i love it. ill post picks when i get time. the only flaw i saw in the box u posted was that 13" height and in my trunk i can only get 12" clearance cuz my 6x9 3way hangs really low.
Any suggestions on a sub for my amp???
I think the DD would be your best SQ sub out of the ones you have listed. The W7 is a very sloppy sub... IMO, ONLy good for rap music, anything else will sound like crap. The bass response is not tight due to the loose design of the cone! Out of the ones you listed, I say DDLittleMan wrote:not bad setup. iv been doing car audio for a bit and mine is is almost like urs. I have 6.5 & 6x9 kappa 3ways with a single 10" punch hx2 rite now. bd800.4 for my cones and db1000.1 for my sub. the bad thing about punch amp is that they require 13.5 power supply so u must get a capacitor to get the power rating. so I picked up a tsunami 5 farad cap. im looking to get a new sub cuz my amp is pushing the peek for the sub. Im looking at DD, W7, or RE sub. maybe just be cheap and get a w6...
i built a band pass box for my coupe and i love it. ill post picks when i get time. the only flaw i saw in the box u posted was that 13" height and in my trunk i can only get 12" clearance cuz my 6x9 3way hangs really low.
Any suggestions on a sub for my amp???
Setting the EQ is the fun part. You can seemingly play with that endlessly until you find the sound you like.losenone wrote:I love how it glows at night. Now i need to get my EQ settings down straight.
Personally, I don't think a cap helps much with this. First, and I cannot stress this enough, make sure you do the big 3 (check the FAQ). That will almost certainly take care of the dimming. Also, LED bulbs shouldn't dim, so I'm slightly confused on this one.losenone wrote:Oh Apple, what ive noticed after putting in LED bulbs. Hard bass hits dim the lights, so im assuming i need a cap
Would certainly have to agree with Doc on this one. Don't go with the W7. If I remember hearing correctly, the W6 should be cleaner than the W7. Which RE sub were you referring to? I do tend to like some of those as well.rjdmmfl1 wrote:
I think the DD would be your best SQ sub out of the ones you have listed. The W7 is a very sloppy sub... IMO, ONLy good for rap music, anything else will sound like crap. The bass response is not tight due to the loose design of the cone! Out of the ones you listed, I say DD
isAppleBonker wrote:
Would certainly have to agree with Doc on this one. Don't go with the W7. If I remember hearing correctly, the W6 should be cleaner than the W7. Which RE sub were you referring to? I do tend to like some of those as well.
Wow, I nearly bought an RE XXX 12" before I got my CMass UL12. That is a nice sub, although it weighs in at over 70 lb. What kind of budget are you looking at? And, based on those ideas, I'm assuming you're looking for something that puts out excellent sound quality but will still get loud?LittleMan wrote:hm... I was looking at the RE XXX and Cerwin Vega Stroker Pro but they don't come in 10"
i currently have a 10" punch hx2 but im tired to this sub.
I want to get a new 10" What should I get???