Need a new ignition switch & maybe lock... Any help is greatly appreciated?

[OneSexy240]

This past week I went to start my 1992 240 SX LE (147,000 Miles, about half driven in the Dallas area and half in the Chicago area) and the ignition wouldn't budge. I tryed josteling the steering wheel and turning the car over again and again with no success, the ignition lock and key release are froze up. The key goes in and out without a problem and the audio chime alert ( I guess the warning switch) works also when the key is in the ignition. Also, after peeling back the interior covers to have a better look, I noticed that when josteling the steering that there is slack and a slight 1/8 to 1/4 inch or so movement down and back up of the entire ignition as well as the steering lock assembley that has the sheered screws. Last night a pro mechanic stoped by to take a look, he thinks a new ignition switch is needed, and said the rest may or should be good. I spoke with the local Nissan dealership over the phone and explained all I have above, and the parts advisor said that it sounds like I will likely need the ignition switch and lock kit, which was quoted at $192.00, and just the ignition switch and 2 new sheers for $85.00. I have not ever replaced or repair any of these parts myself on this or any other car, I did find some help in my 2 Chiltons guides, doesn't seem like that difficult of a job, on paper anyways, esp. if only replacing the ignition switch. I've done minor to novice repairs in the past, anything more advanced has only been with body work. It would also probably help to know the easiest way to remove the sheerd screws... drill, chisel and unscrew or other method? Also, what is the going rate for labor if I have someone else do one or the other? Any words of wisdom with any of this would be greatly appreciated. The cars recent repair history, ... radiator, hose and water pump, body work damage repair throughout and painted entire car, blown fule injector replaced, tie rod ends replaces, performance exhaust replaced, replaced air intake hose, tune up, all in past 1-2 years as well as other general maintainence. There is also a moisture problem where I live, I've been dealing with problems inside the house but the car air system has also recently smelled of mildew, mold or both at times. Is there anything I can use or do for this as well as we have alergies to both and a new 4 month old baby.Hope all this covers it, any other questions or needed info, let me know...Much thanks...Joe, Ivona & Ariana

[vancouverbc]

unlikely to be the switch. the switch is easy to remove. just one small screw. switch is on opposite side of assembly to where you insert key. the problem is the lock cylinder or assembly. im not sure if you can replace separately. some people have replaced lock cylinder separately. lock cylinder sold at locksmiths. mechanic seems mistaken or using different terminology.

thief dug out my lock cylinder so now i drive with screwdriver to turn switch. pretty inconvenient.

safety: assembly locks steering wheel. avoid situation where it locks while you are driving.

pic is of switch . you can see screw. I unscrewed switch and operated car by screwdriver in switch. very bad idea because you don't know where steering lock is. make sure the switch is installed before you drive for this reason. ok to dig lock cylinder out and insert screwdriver from key end.
Modified by vancouverbc at 2:16 PM 7/28/2005

[OneSexy240]

Thanks for the info and visual VanBC...Not sure I want to use a screw driver for either unless it is just to get the car to a shop and I'm not sure but I think this may be what you are getting at. This car is up to date and nearly restored. would just assume pay the $'s to get whatever parts are necessary and hopefully install myself or pay to have it done. However the car is not drivable and a 3rd car, if I can save money by not towing and/or doing it myself, that would be great. However, in order to do this, I need to find out exactly what needs to be done or where to start first. It seems there are varrying opinions... so hopefully some concensus will come from this topic, not sure if this is a common occurance with older 240's, hopefully someone who had this same or similar problem can relate some wisdom.

[vancouverbc]

I assume you have played with the button that locks the lock cylinder. Mine has never worked so i don't even know what it does for sure. I think the mechanic must be referring to the lock cylinder when he says ignition switch. Is your steering wheel locked? usually, these problems are caused by someone trying to steal your car.

[OneSexy240]

Thanks VanBC... I'm not sure exactly which button that is, I'll have to look around for it. Is it the same as the key release button? Yes, the steering is locked and also the wheels are in the forward position. I'm not exactly trusting what this mechanic says, he quoted me $152.00 as the part price for just the ignition switch, won't be talking to him again. I had also thought that someone may have tryed to steal the car because as I mentioned in the original post, that there is slack and a slight 1/8 to 1/4 inch or so movement down and back up of the entire ignition as well as the steering lock assembley that has the sheered screws. This made me think right away that someone may have been tampering. Everything was working fine when I parked the car for the night, the next morning this is what I found. We are 3 blks from the Police station, so someone may have given up after a quick attempt.

[vancouverbc]

"Is it the same as the key release button?" yes.

I don't think mechanics lie about part prices. He must be referring to the assembly. He will quote the going retail price which includes hidden labour. It should be the same price the dealer quotes for the assembly alone without lock cylinder. You can get about 40 percent off the "retail" price by just asking for it from many parts store. however, this part may only be available from dealer.

hopefully someone can answer.

[Florida240sx]

Just rewire it for one of the push start buttons but have hid in your ashtray/glovebox

[vancouverbc]

Just rewire it for one of the push start buttons but have hid in your ashtray/glovebox

I might do that but i will take the assembly completely off because i don't want steering wheel locking while i am driving. you also have to have a run position.

[Florida240sx]

It'll on cost you a fe bucks though.Compared to what $180? Cost like $10 for the switch and then a coupel toggles..Less than $20

[OneSexy240]

I doubt this mechanic lied, just asking way too much, I asked him twice if this was the price for just the switch and he said yes.

Not sure what you guys mean about rewiring???

Does anyone else have any ideas ...???


Modified by OneSexy240 at 9:25 PM 7/31/2005

[NISTECH]

Your lock cyl [ commonly reffered to as ignition switch by techs] Is what is wrong with your car. Screwy thing here is the ignition switch [ electrical portion is available seperatly. The lock cyl however is only available as an assembly with the ignition switch. The price he quoted you sounds about right for just the factory part.However look at your price if you buy it here.http://www.trademotion.com/par...gid=1

[NISTECH]

Your price is the one on the right.

[vancouverbc]

"Not sure what you guys mean about rewiring???"

when you turn key you are just making a connection. ie accessory postion connects power to accessory circuit. it is on/off so you would use toggle switch for that. a toggle switch for the run postion also and a momentary switch for start. a thief can easily pop the lock cylinder and start car so you are not really compromising security as long as you put a few kill switches.i think i will do this. the hard part will be getting rid of the steering wheel lock.

[OneSexy240]

I had some time tonight to check a few things out after taking into consideration some of the posts here. After a closer look at the ignition switch, I noticed a slight gap, I pressed and held it in, turned the key and started the car. The screw to the switch is tightened all the way, however the brown hard plastic piece has become dislodged apparently around the parimeter and is not properly attached. Tomorrow I'll take it apart and see if I can doing anything with it, any other suggestions? And there are still the issues with the slack and movement of the entire ignition and steering lock assembley. I'm going to call the dealership tomorrow to see what they may be able to do now that I can start the car and drive it. Also, can the steering lock up if the switch becomes dislodged while driving?Thanks vanbc and all for your input here.... it has been a great help.

Modified by OneSexy240 at 9:16 PM 7/31/2005
Modified by OneSexy240 at 9:19 PM 7/31/2005

[vancouverbc]

The electrical switch is very simple. How it operates will be self-evident when you take the screw off. If you can't repair it you should try getting one from a junk yard.

I don't think your wheel can lock as long as you have the lock cylinder installed. When you have the switch off, turn the key and see if rotates 360 degrees and see how easily the key would turn by itself from car vibrating. if not, you should be ok. i had no lock cylinder and had taken the switch off so the thing that rotates could rotate around and around in the same direction without restriction so i had no idea where the lock postion was. worse , was that the lock only worked intermittently. the worry would be that it could jiggle into the lock position without the switch anchoring it. your key would have to jiggle back to off position so i don't think that would happen . anyway, if it locks turn the key.