Need a new crank pulley for my SR Unorhodox? Or New OEM?

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OM3GA
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I need a new crank pulley for my SR because the old one is chipped and rusty and disgusting.

I'm trying to decide whether i should go with the Unorhodox racing pulley($180) or if i should go with a new OEM crank pulley ($155)

The cost is not the issue, id like to upgrade if the UR is an upgrade i keep hearing people say bad things about solid crank pulleys and i dont know what to believe anymore. So i want to buy whatever one would be better but i figure since they cost around the same amount of money i would ask around to see what others would do.

I planned on getting a lightweight fidanza flywheel as well as the Unorhodox pulley but if the Unorthodox pulley is going to destroy my engine like some people have led me to believe then id rather go with the best thing and just get a new OEM crank pulley.

What is the better choice in this situation? With money not being a problem considering its only $25 difference.


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240life
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save up some more $ and get an ATI superdamper, very nice unit. Solid pulleys are bad for high horsepower, high revving engines as the vibrations can cause early internal damage to your engine

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sean@z1
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I would get the whole set from Greddy http://www.z1motorsports.com/2...=3496

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CSUPUEBLOTIM
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sean@z1 wrote:I would get the whole set from Greddy http://www.z1motorsports.com/2...=3496
Maybe if Greddy actually sold a crank pulley... .

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OM3GA
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Yeah i wish greddy made a full pulley set, I have alot more things to buy for my build so i dont think i want to add a $500 crank pulley to the list just yet. What about a lightweight flywheel? Do those cause any damage? I have not heard of any cases of that yet haha. I guess ill just go with the oem crank pulley for now.

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CSUPUEBLOTIM
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Be sure if you get a lightweight flywheel to get one with changeable friction surfaces. Are you doing a rebuild or just upgrading? Its usually best to get the bottom end balanced when changing such things as crank pulley and flywheel.

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tEknoS13
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Interesting thread. I too have this decision to make. I have a Fidanza 11lb flywheel, 1 piece alum. drive shaft, and a set of lightweight pulleys excluding the crank pulley. I broke a little piece off of it while pulling it with the 3 jaw puller.

BTW OP: where did you get a price for the oem pulley ($155) and where can I buy it?

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OM3GA
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You can get it through me just let me know but ive been trying to figure out if people are actually saying "correct" things about lightweight pulleys or if UR is actually correct where they say this

"Is my crank pulley a harmonic/torsional/vibration damper or a harmonic balancer?People are getting their crank pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some domestic V6 & V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper. None of the applications we offer use a counterweight as part of the pulley, as these engines are all internally balanced.

The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley making them look similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress noise from the engine accessories; the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to realize in these applications, the elastomer is inadequate in size and durability to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda B & D Series engines, Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's just to mention a few. Most owners who have installed our pulleys notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is result of replacing the heavy crank pulley with our crank pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.

The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement and frequencies of high amplitude. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as shorter stroke length, smaller displacement, piston dwell time, piston pin off-set, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur. More importantly the actual tune of the engine, espcially with modified vheciles, is the biggest factor in potential engine damage. Poor tuning leads to detonation which is an engine killer that no damper can stop.

Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about solid crank pulleys. When engine problems occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand our crank pulleys better"

I want to know now because i am either using the UR pulley and the Greddy set. Or i am buying a brand new OEM crank pulley and using a diifferent water pump pulley like the Yashio Factory or Stance. I want the UR pulley if its not going to hurt anything, but if it will hurt something then i will just go with the OEM one.. The problem is that they cost nearly the same amount... I feel like im being lied to without real "facts and proof" just seems like its peoples own theories.

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tEknoS13
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kool I will look for you whem I'm ready.

I don't know man, it sounds like the typical "description" on a ebay pulley. I mean all companies are sure to put some research to make their products but I'm not so convinced. Most definetly NISSAN knows what they are doing, tested and chose the best when building these motors. Especially at such a delicate part as a crank pulley. I will go with the OEM pulley.

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CSUPUEBLOTIM
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Here is an OEM one for a little cheaper http://www.thenismoshop.com/ik...13004 .

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OM3GA
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Oh sweet yeah im just hoping thats an actual OEM one ill probably hit him up and see what the deal is with it.

Thanks

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tEknoS13
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wow thats pretty cheap. Good find

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CSUPUEBLOTIM
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Ya, I would hope with it being called theNISMOshop they would sell OEM Nissan stuff. Good Luck, the new one looks better than my beat up one. LOL

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OM3GA
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Thats why i want a new one haha, and i was seeing the prices of the new OEM one and the new Unorthodox one and i was like hmm they are very similar in price why not upgrade...? However my apparent upgrade would do more damage then good? I figure if it were a good idea to lighten the sr crank pulley then other more well known companies would make a lightweight pulley for it IE Jun,Hks,Tomei etc...

So i guess im going to run the stock crank pulley and a baller a** high class Yashio Factory water pump pulley.

VNG704
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there's an oem s13 sr crank pulley on ebay by ma motorsport for like 50


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