Need a driveshaft for my 92 Q45 - and I did the search... need advice...

[FastFreddyFour]

Ok - I have a 1992 Q45 with about 55K miles on it. The driveshaft has a vibration in it - its the original one (my father in law bought the car new so I know the history).

I did some searching and I saw most said to call Joe @ Infinitiparts - did that he wasn't available and the guy on the phone quoted me nearly $900 for the driveshaft alone - not including shipping it to me in Ohio. The other option I found was PowerTrain Industries. They make a Ujoint style replacement and its $490 shipped... looks different - supposedly works the same and is a direct bolt in.

I saw mention of single piece driveshafts - but no info on them. From what I learned is that a stock driveshaft for my year was supposed to last 100K miles... but I think time and sitting got mine (appearantly).

Do driveshaft shops rebuild these (its after 5pm here and I can't call any local ones now)? What should I do - I dont want to hack up my nice low milage car.

ThanksFF

[96Qowner]

You should go with the PTI. Elwesso has one and likes it jus' fine. I'll be going that route when I get around to replacing mine.

Rebuilding is a toughie - hard to balance them properly.

[oldmako]

These guys can make some sweet rides, but why the hell does a drive shaft only last 100K???

[jimbyjimb]

Go to a local driveline shop and ask them about your problem. If it only has a vibration then you can probably get it re-balanced for less than a hundred bucks. Most drivelines are balanced with little weights that are tacked on to the outside, and sometimes these little buggers can come off. There could be another outside reason for the driveline vibration but talking with a driveline specialist and considering a balance is a good start. Also, are you certain it's the driveline and not the wheels? In any case it certainly doesn't sound like you need a new shaft, it's most likely a simple fix. If you have to replace the thing U-joints are definitly, in my opinion, a better way to go. Easier to deal with and typically much stronger.

[jimbyjimb]

That's something I'd like to know. Sounds like BS to me. It's a tube of metal with either CV's on it or U-Joints. Maybe the 100k refer's to the life of the CV joints. I haven't ever heard of a CV that couldn't go past 100k. The driveshaft angles on this car don't look THAT steep to wear them out so fast. Could be a service gimmick. If anyone has an answer I'd like to hear it.

[FastFreddyFour]

Also, are you certain it's the driveline and not the wheels?

Yes I know its not the wheels - I just replaced the original MIM 15" wheels (the look like the BBS's) and tires with a set of 17" G35 wheels and the car drives exactly the same.....

Seems like the driveshaft is a common problem when there is mileage on the car - in the searches it seemed like 100K was the mark. But mine only has 55K on it - so mine must just be getting old from sitting or something.

Also I saw a post about putting in a new driveshaft from a 95 or something because they were a little more heavy duty or something.

While searching the internet - I found a similar product to the PYI one... its from Driveshaft Specialist out of Texas. It is described the same way as the PTI one - and its $100 cheaper... so I can get it for $400 instead of $500. http://www.thrashdriveshaft.co...INITI

Also this is just unbolt the stock one and bolt the new one in thing right - I dont need air tools or anything right?

ThanksFred

[jimbyjimb]

You know, I haven't taken an especially in-depth look at my Q yet but I have yet to see a driveline that needs airtools. They're typically a pretty straight-forward removal/replace deal. A new output shaft seal is typically reccommended when replacing the driveline, but I usually just say screw that if the seal isn't cracked or worn very badly. Your call. As I said, haven't looked in depth yet. If you do replace the seal they typically have a spring around the inside, so I'd reccomend getting some transmission-friendly grease and packing the back of the seal, assuming the Q uses your average-ol' output shaft seal. Check the archives, I'm sure there's a "driveline swap" feed-the-monkey-tree in there somewhere's. I'd be shocked if there weren't, and if not, HEY! You should do it! Oh, yes, make sure the driveline you buy has grease zerks for the UJ's, if it doesn't drilling and tapping is alot easier out of the car. Zerks should be available from any major autoparts store. Make sure to get the right zerks BEFORE drilling. The term "ungreaseable" only means "very limited lifespan."

[DrewQ45]

Ok - I have a 1992 Q45 with about 55K miles on it. The driveshaft has a vibration in it - its the original one (my father in law bought the car new so I know the history).

I did some searching and I saw most said to call Joe @ Infinitiparts - did that he wasn't available and the guy on the phone quoted me nearly $900 for the driveshaft alone - not including shipping it to me in Ohio. The other option I found was PowerTrain Industries. They make a Ujoint style replacement and its $490 shipped... looks different - supposedly works the same and is a direct bolt in.

I saw mention of single piece driveshafts - but no info on them. From what I learned is that a stock driveshaft for my year was supposed to last 100K miles... but I think time and sitting got mine (appearantly).

Do driveshaft shops rebuild these (its after 5pm here and I can't call any local ones now)? What should I do - I dont want to hack up my nice low milage car.

ThanksFF

Been down this path before...researched it up and down, in and out and experimented a lot too. I can tell you right off. Either spend big money and get a new shaft, or get a used 94' - 96' shaft. Take a read...and if you need one, I do have a 94' shaft for sale.

zerothread?id=249209

[maxnix]

You should go with the PTI. Elwesso has one and likes it jus' fine.

Actually, I think he posted it is not as smooth as the OEM unit.

Read Q45tech's posts also.

[maxnix]

Go to a local driveline shop and ask them about your problem. If it only has a vibration then you can probably get it re-balanced for less than a hundred bucks.

The problem is the foam filler becomes degraded and starts floating around within the driveshaft No way to balance loose constantly shifting dislodged foam filler.

[jimbyjimb]

Foam filled. What is the reasoning? Can't say I've ever heard of a foam filled driveshaft. Must be a high-end car deal.

[Q451990]

The other issue on the early driveshaft was the deteriorating center "doughnut" carrier bushing. The updated design has a larger one, so the bracket has to be replaced with the larger one as well.

JimbyJimb... the Q's driveshaft is a little unique in it's design with it's two part design with the flex plate design... a little more to it than the typical u-joints.

It is relatively easy to replace. 4 or 5 bolts at the back, a couple of bolts on the carrier, and it slips out. I have done it by myself on jack stands using a creeper to help roll it out. You don't even have to drop the exhaust.

Heath

[jimbyjimb]

I'll make it a point to give that a little looksie. So is the entire car wierd, or just the driveshaft and intake? A bit sarcastic. I think I'm in for a treat with this one. Could be a freak in many departments which is either good or bad depending on who's looking.

[Q45tech]

Two piece drive shafts are common when a vehicle is capable of 150 mph+ to minimize vibration.

These little things are why you pay $15,000 more for a vehicle.Just common everyday driveshaft for those that drive a BMW, Mercedes, or Audi RWD V8/V12

As we keep pointing out rubber degrades more from age than miles due to ozone and salt.After 10 years regardless of mileage most compents are done and need replacement.

WHY THE WARRRANTY HAS A TIME LIMIT 4 years for somethings and 6 years for others. WHY a vehicle has a legal life of 7-10 years depending on failure component.

Takes lots of these $1,000 components to add up to $3,000 [dealer pricing] prorated annual maint & repair costs.

Just like the transmission costs $300 per year so do tires alignments, balancing, replacement brakes run the same, the ac system costs $200 per year, the drive shaft [and engine oil] cost $100 per year , or the shocks and alternator cost $80, the battery cost $25-$30.

Hopefully people can understand the concept of assigning costs as you drive [per mile per month] vs waiting until failure to say a car cost X that year.

[jamesmost]

I have a PowerTrain Indus. shaft on my car and it is just fine been on for over 100,000miles

[Q45tech]

"Just fine" or smooth as brand new oem is always the question since they [PTI] replace rubber joint with a u-joint.

Standards vary as does one pocket book.

Proper installation and on road indexing usally makes the difference along with proper test equipment to MEASURE the amount of vibration in the seat to phase cancel to near perfection.