I posted this on ka-t.org but i figure maybe i can get a different set of eyes on the subject and more input so here it is:

i got a stock ecu with the safc with a base setting of somebody's tune i found on the ultimate guide. That person is running 2lbs more than myself on a similar set up so i figure since they are rich ill start rich as well with they're settings and then gradually lean it out. JUST AS A BASE.

the issue at them moment after setting knock and im recurculated so i didn't need to do decel is i cant pull enough fuel at operating temperature to keep it idling at stoich.

as it warms up it gradually drops from stoich. at -27ish and then ill pull the full -50 and its still idling at mid. 13's after it hits operating temperature.

the ecu is throwing CODE 21, primary ignition malfunction so i think it may have something to do with either:

the wiring i recently did to put in a hobbs boost switch (even though its bypassed at them moment and still acting up and i get 11.9v at both ends of the switch so its passing enough power)

or

the reducer/condenser is messing up since i wasn't getting continuity from pin D to either ignition coil harness plugs as per FSM diagnostic testing. (spark isn't strong enough?)

OR the plugs are fouled from being ran rich for so long while testing the setup and everything but they don't seem all that dirty and i don't think that the amount of exposure they have had is enough to ruin them.

when i rev the engine under no load i do get a rich condition enough to give me backfiring even though i keep throttle input under 30% and have a line pulling about -30 to -7 from 1000rmp to 3000 rpm

any help is much appreciated, if i can't get this car acting right soon I don't know if i will be able to keep it =[

and I am the kind of person to do as much as possible before hand to prevent a good ka from being blown up so please help!

when u change ur high and low settings for 1000rpm does the afr change at all? Are u using a wideband to check ur afrs? Stock maf or z32? what is your maf setting?

I have an n60 so i believe the in setting for that maf is 2 and the out setting is 5 and thats what i have

and yea it does change, i have an aem wideband to verify my afr's

i adjust it in real time when i was testing it and it would get rich then id adjust it to lean it out and it would up until i got to operating temp and it just idled rich and i think it ran rich too with the backfiring issues

bump!

So when the engine is cold it idles properly? problem only occurs when warm not cold? Do you have the stock o2 sensor hooked up? I would check ur coolant temp sensor as well to make sure its going into closed loop instead of staying in open loop. A scanner should help u figure this out. lmk

What size injectors?