Need 1998 Q45T Front Rotor ecommendation

[vr4_for_fun]

Hey Guys,I have a 98 q45t and I'm having trouble with the front rotors warping. I replaced the current set about 8000 miles ago along with new pads and they're already badly warped. I really don't drive the car all that hard and thought basic rotors that I got from an import auto parts store would work fine. Apparently that was a bad assumption on my part.

Have any of you experienced this issue and found a resolution? if so, what brand (Stillen, factory etc.) works the best in resisting warping in our cars?

Thanks!Randy98 q45tThe Lowrider (with a shimmy, shimmy, shake!)

[droll]

First make sure you aren't warping the rotors yourself by not torqueing the wheel lug nuts properly. Its one of the biggest causes of warped rotors, if not THE biggest.

[vr4_for_fun]

I use a 4 way wrench and cross tighten the lug nuts. Is there something else I should be doing?

[droll]

Yes, torque them to spec. Most techs don't even do this, because they're lazy. It also helps out a lot when you get a flat and have to try to get them loose after some tech has hammered the hell out of them with an air gun.

Are they really warped bad enough that they need to be replaced? I don't see that happen too often after 8000 miles.

[vr4_for_fun]

I haven't removed them to try and have them resurfaced yet but the car does shake pretty bad, especially when it's warm out or raining. It seems that having them resurfaced will just weaken them further and make them warp faster. I was kind of thinking that maybe they're just low quality....

[droll]

The car shakes? If your rotors are warped you'll feel it pulsate through the brake pedal, and sometimes make a scraping noise as it passes through the caliper ****-eyed, but I don't recall it being able to shake the whole car. You may have a different problem. Does it come from both wheels?

Resurfacing isn't a problem, as long as they stay within the limits set by the manufacturer. If you just got them 8000 miles ago they would have plenty of metal on them, depending on how much needs to be removed to correct any warping.

[Q45tech]

Aftermarket [cheap rotors] are made of low low low quality cast iron.

Oem or Powerstop/Stillen only and each rotor must be indexed to meet oem specs.......better to shim then to 0.00000000000 instead of oem 0.0028" as feeling the NEXT warp will take more miles!

Many aftermarkets are warped when they arrive due to warehousing and shipping and just crappy cheap materials.

In some ways the lighter 97-01 Q and [basic G35] are worse warpers than the 90-96 Q ...........the front rotor thickness is the same 28 mm.The G35 standard rotor is less than 24 mm thick can you say future income for us.......thank you Nissan for being frugle.

[DAEDALUS]

Have you had the tires balanced? What kind of tires are they? Is the air pressure the same across each axle? Does the shaking increase with vehicle speed or engine speed?

[Q45tech]

The PowerStop drilled are about 10-15% better than the oem.If you warp at 8,000 expect to warp at 9,000.......every little bit helps...........only use oem pads they have been reoptimized to try to reduce warping.

How are the rears behaving........if the rears are not doing their share the front will warp faster.

[vr4_for_fun]

Sounds like I should order the PowerStop drilled rotors then. What should I expect to pay for them and can you recommend a source for them and the pads?Sorry for the impending dumb question but I have no idea what you mean by indexing. How do I go about that?Thanks very much!!Randy

[Q45tech]

Follow the indexing proceedure in the FSM.........it is under checking rotor runout [brake section].

[navysnail]

http://www.stoptech.com/faq/data/faq7.h ... ep...h.htm

it seems crazy to do, but it will keep them from "warping"

[Q45tech]

http://www.brakealign.com/pages/product ... oducts.htm

part number 402-xx either 0.003 or 0.006" correction or just fix the hubs significantly more expensive.