hey i had just heard but it was from a rather iffy source, but does the napz24 motor have a forged crank in it. cuz if it does im putting it in my ka24de.

uhhh... i don't think so man... i suppose it is possible but i've never heard that and it seems like i would have by now if its true

its possible, the lead tech at my shop said that in 82' Nissan started putting forged cranks in everything....he said he wouldnt know for sure if it made it to the trucks even by my year (84') but he said it is possible.

hmmm... well if they're in everything then doesn't that mean his ka24 would have it already any way?

Quote »Yes, the z24 crank is forged steel, so is the ka24e/de. They have the same bore and stroke, same counterweight setup (half counterweighted). I don't know if the journals are the same diameter, or if the crank snout is the same. According to wikipedia, the pistons and rods are interchangeable (in sets) between the ka's and z24 motor. There will be no performance gain with a z24 crank in a ka motor.[/quote]

That is good to know tho

yeah i knew they were interchangeable... i hope to put either lightweight or high compression ka rods and pistons in mine... i'll have to get a different head tho so we'll see how that goes

PEZi720 wrote:yeah i knew they were interchangeable... i hope to put either lightweight or high compression ka rods and pistons in mine... i'll have to get a different head tho so we'll see how that goes

why do you need a different head?

z head won't handle the extra compression... i'm thinking of modifying a ka head

what kind of compression are you talking about? i mean the head should be good for what 10:1

i haven't actually done my research into it yet... but i've talked to all the experts (a few from ratsun and a few from here) and the z head is s*** for performance applications... they say that even running mikuni side drafts is sketchy

well damn, i know it has a problem blowing head gaskets now

yeah... yours is not the only one... you said yours was vacuum issues right?

well with mikunis almost all of the lines are removed... you just have the carbs going up to block... the stock manifold gets tossed

here's a z24 with side drafts... this guys had a few issues getting it to run right

this particular one had

What you need to make the Z24 motors moveHKS dual intake manifold w/ 44mm Mikuni sidedraftsCower cam w/ a big liftKA24E Fidanza Aluminum flywheel Part# 143241, Center force 2 clutch4.38 or 4.88 gearing from the 1969 to 1979 older Datuns trucks.Long neck tranny from the datsun Z's cars and all you need to do is just swap out the bell housing.MSD 6AL ignition box w/ MSD blaster 2 coilsHooker or Dough Thorely headers

thats hawt, how did he get the ignition to work?

I don't like aluminum flywheels. The lighter the flywheel the faster it drops revs.

I would lighten the crank pulley and drive shaft, instead of the flywheel.

Aluminium driveshaft like the Ford Lightning came with! I wonder what a custom one would run price-wise?

I know an awesome driveshaft! Carbon Fiber! 6lbs! $$$$$$$$$$ Better yet, Carbon Fiber EVERYTHING!!!!!!! Seriously.

carbo fiber everything would be nice... i wonder what that would run price wise lol

The time attack record at Tsubaka Circuit is held by an all cabon fiber Mitsubishi EVO. I'm not sure what they mean by ALL carbon fiber, but I would think the chassis is still iron, steel, or aluminium. I can't really justify paying that much for carbon fiber components unless you are actually getting PAID to race your vehicle. If you got in an accident (s*** happens) and cracked up some carbon fiber fenders, just imagine the cost. A good example of a car made from exotic materials is the McClaren F1. The titanium exhaust system is also a crumple zone for a rear end collision, and costs $40,000 to replace. I'm gonna stick with aluminium and iron for now.

they make some awesome carbon fiber fenders and such for the evo... and i like them a lot!

front end

fenders and hood (not my personal favorite hood but i like the fenders)

trunk

i just want an evo IX... someone wanna find me one with low miles that's cheap???

It would be pretty cool however to make your own carbon fiber hood or fenders. You would have to make a mold of the hood and lay some carbon fiber. (BTW, I started a thread about homemeade carbon fiber panels in General Chat). *P.S.* Just in case mcrdpisc2086 is pissed about his jacked thread, to answer his origional question, the z24 crank is forged steel and so is the ka24e/de. All share the same bore and stroke, and all are half counterweighted, there will be NO performance gain by putting a z24 crank into a ka24, even if you did manage to install it.

Modified by seang at 10:53 PM 7/5/2009

Modified by seang at 12:57 AM 7/6/2009
Modified by seang at 12:58 AM 7/6/2009

I just thought about the custom alu driveshaft. I would need 3 small ones for my 4wd. But it could be that a 240sx shaft could work depending on the length of the 2wd 720 shaft.

A custom CF driveshaft can be had for $1100.

Aluminum one piece are about $500 new.

All of this is kind of silly on a truck with leaf sping rear suspension.

1.) aluminum, can only take so many heat / flex cycles before it cracks, i have seen it many times. what you can do is an aluminum shaft with steel ears for the U joints but then you have to deal with corrosion and weight. next problem with aluminum with leaf sprung suspension = more wheel hop and axle wrap. I think most aluminum drive shafts have like a 15-23% deflection capability, which will mean surges in the power getting to the road (or suspension) causeing the wheel hop.

next. . .

2.) carbon fiber DS - while this might seem like a logical way to go for weight and strength you are talking about putting a 2k drive shaft on a truck worth at best slightly more then 3k (not counting mods) just doesnt make sense, and for that matter neither does the aluminum shaft @ 1 grand.

now, if you want to have a shaft built that is not just strong but somewhat light as well as cost effective. you will get a smaller diameter alloy shaft. remember rotational mass is affected 2 ways, the first is weight but the more important one is distance from center. the more weight you place farther away from center the more rotational mass you have (hence why people want to keep a 15" wheel for racing rather then running 20's) for my jeep cherokee i had a local driveshaft place make me an alloy shaft that was 2" OD it also had a 10" slip joint in it for articulation, now was it strong enough for wheel'en and for track en. . .why yes, yes it was