I need some advice on if this is a good deal or not.

I current have a slightly running rough 91 na 2+2 auto w/ 260k. A local junk yard has a running and apparently driving 91 tt manual w/160K.

I showed them the full list of parts i would need for a engine and trans swap. (part list below)

They said $2300 and this includes them pulling all the parts for me.

Is this a good deal? I only paid $2500 for my car when i bought it in 2012 so its hard for me to wrap my head around

parts i get for $2300 (Let me know if i am missing anything i would need)

Motor, TT transmission(interior parts and such for the manual swap), Dash cluster, TT ac lines, TT ac condenser, TT Radiator w/ upper mounts and upper hoses, intercooler w/ ducts & mounting brackets, intercooler piping, TT ecu, TT oem efi harness, oil cooler & line, TT clutch & flywheel, TT mid pipes (possible full exhaust), TT fuel pump, TT power steering pump (cause its a 91 TT)

That's not unreasonable. 160k is a lot of miles, really should have the motor refreshed. If its OE exhaust, you don't want it, just get a full turbo-back exhaust. Same with radiator, get a new aftermarket one.

Personally I would try and get the whole rear sub-frame and swap that over. Unless you want to keep a taller rear gear.

You could swap it all and I think all you would need is a new driveshaft.

I would try to buy the running TT from them.

Sadly they can’t sell the full car for some reason I tried.

They can, they don't want to because they stand to make more parting it and if you were to go driving it around they would get in trouble for selling you what is likely branded as a non-repairable car. The car would be sold as a parts car with no title. $2300 isn't a bad price, but its not great either. Your other option would be to search the web for a front cut or a wrecked runner. A 160k engine is likely in need of a refresh either way so figure that cost into the mix unless you want to pull it back out in the next however long it lasts.

As for your list:
1. I would agree that the exhaust is worthless but its replaceable after the fact so could be used for the time being.
2. The EFI harness is a stupid item to reuse if it original, half of the connectors will probably crumble in your hands and its such a PITA to replace with engine in the car that not installing a new one now would be doing yourself a disservice.
3. And finally the PS pump, unless you're keeping the HICAS then you will need the NA pump and bracket.

Thanks for the advice,

Couple questions

1)Can i take the front end of the manual TT drive shaft and the back end of my auto 2+2 drive shaft and bolt them together with out problems.
2)Will the downpipes from the TT engine bolt up (or weld) to my Na exhaust with out problems? i have a nice custom muffler delete system id like to keep.
3)My current NA power steering pump does not work completely. Would it be better to rebuild my current pump or replace with the TT pump and do a hicas delete in it.

1) I believe you can if you are swapping transmission. But I’m not sure if a manual TT front half will bolt onto a NA rear half.
Never played with that combo. I think you have to swap over the center mounting flanges too as the TT shafts are larger than the na mid flanges.
This might help, although a little confusing too:

http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forum ... hread.html

http://www.yugobernie.com/images/Cars/J ... C01915.jpg

2)no, three solutions a) get a set of JDM downpipes for a direct bolt on to your Na exh. b) get a set of TT test pipes c) use the TT cat pipe section from the parts car.

3)rebuild your Na pump, you will thank your self later. Installing a early hi cas system to a Na car will not be fun.

Thanks for the help.

I be sure to get the exhaust to the cats from the junk yard car.

If I understood that link correctly if I have the 5sp front half from the TT and my complete NA auto drive shaft I should be able to hook up a working drive shaft?

I think so, but you can’t just swap the two halves. The TT half will have a larger bolt pattern than your Na rear half. You need to swap over the Na the mid flange too.(the part attached to the center carrier bearing ). Like I said I’m not 100% sure, based on my search it should work. Search center carrier bearing replacement, will give you the right steps to change them over.

Thanks I’m feeling more confident about doing this swap now

For the drive shaft the differences at the front are Manual and Auto, at the back its TT and NA meaning
ALL Autos are the same at the trans yoke
ALL Manuals are the same at the trans yoke
ALL TTs are same at the rear diff
ALL Manuals are same at the rear diff

Not sure if you can Frankenstein them at the center flange, I don't remember if the lengths work. If you're swapping the transmission from an Auto NA to a Manual TT but keeping your NA diff then you just need an Manual NA 2+2 DS. I have a one-piece Manual NA 2+2 DS for sale, depending on where you're located, I think shipping on it would be pretty steep.

Kmac0913 wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 22, 2020 9:59 pm

Thanks I’m feeling more confident about doing this swap now

Adding to nolimits Reply, I did not realize that you are 2+2 and the parts car is a 2 seater. I did not read the entire thread. Lengths will be the issue too but I can’t remember if it’s the front or rear halves.

The TT and NA auto also have different trans yokes if I remember correctly.

I’m located in St. Louis, Missouri. Still at looking still steep shipping?

I had no idea the Auto transmissions were different, learn something new every day.

Houston to STL shipping is around $65 via Fedex, and looks like shipping tubes are around $20. So $85 just for shipping.

what are you looking to sell your drive shaft for? And will it bolt up to the tt 5spd?

If the trans yoke from the manual TT is the same length as the trans yoke from my 2+2 auto. Will they work together? Ie using the TT 2 seater manual trans yoke and NA 2+2 auto rear?

The driveshaft I have is an aftermarket one piece for a 2+2 manual. The NA and TT manual trans yoke is the same, the only difference on the manual cars is the TT differential flange is larger than the NA so the back half is the only difference. With the shaft I have it would be a direct bolt in once you've installed any (TT or NA) manual trans as long as you keep your NA rear diff. I was looking to get $200 for the DS.