NA Ca18de--> Ca18det question.

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
Guffed
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So do you think I will be fine turbo charging a N/A engine if I don't run a lot of boost? Does the compression difference really matter that much? If so, I have a spare ca18det (rod knock), do you think the pistons on it are ok to swap on over? I haven't opened her up yet and I really don't feel like taking another engine apart. Thanks and sorry if this has been asked before, I can never seem to find anything i'm looking for using the search thing. Thanks again,


NeedCAforS13
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Thats my plan actually... CA18DE motor, metal headgasket to lower the comp. slightly, and bolt all my turbo stuff on it (and turbo electronics too)... according to most it will be quick around town...

some of my mr2 friend's run high compression turbo'd motors, and they like it! I'd say plan to keep it under 15psi. (i'm going to run 7-10psi at first, to see how it is)

Sean

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themadscientist
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cams are less than ideal and no piston oilers, the oil pump, block, crank and rods are the same stuff as the DET. Be very careful about detonation, the DE has domed pistons with lots of sharp edges that could get hot under boost especially in absense of the oilers and cause detonation but it is not impossible. You should be ok if you back the timing off some and tune slowly and carefully.

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cams are the same no? everything I've ever read says yes...

Sean

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themadscientist
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no they are different duration. They will work but not ideally suited for spinning up a turbo.

NeedCAforS13
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so should i swap out my CA18DET cams, or my CA16DE cams into my new motor?

Sean

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themadscientist
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if you transfer the DET cams and lifters into the DE head you will have a stock DET head, that's the only change needed.

NeedCAforS13
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why the lifters... i guess if it requires something major like that i'll keep the de stuff... this is a temp. motor for me to play with while I rebuild my other one in the garage...

Sean

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Dude, the lifters are nothing to get out. If you take out the cam, the lifter are right there. Just use a magnet and they pull right off the valves. The reason you have to switch them is because the cams are broken into those lifters ( and vice versus ) and so they need to stay with one anther. You also need to make sure the they get put back into the same cam lobe they came out of the car on.

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you have to have them re-fit (like by a machine shop?)... or else the don't fit right... right?

Sean

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Not that I'm aware of, but I could be wrong. I've never done it before.

Guffed
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How much damage can actually be done from detonation if I let off? Also, I do have a few spare ca18s for parts...2 are det's but one has rod knock and the other is a FWD. Can I use any other parts besides pistons, rods, or cams to lower the compression? Oh and sean, yeah, I'm probably going to run low (stock) boost on my ca until I get around to doing the same thing you are doing. Rebuilding my spare ca to be the strongest little engine in the world. Thanks,

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damage caused by detonation increases exponentially with boost pressure. Cars running NA with cruddy gas can knock for years but in a performance engine pushed to the limit a few rotations woth of detonation can shred a set of pistons. I am assuming the concept is fun on the cheap, with that in mind here is what i would do.

Pull the head off the DE, clean the combustion chambers and pistontops of carbon which would artificially increase compression. Polishing them to a mirror finish and rounding off the sharp edges on the piston domes would do wonders to curb detonation as well if you are willing to put the work in.

Pull the plug in the DE block where the oil supply line goes. It has been a dead end for oil flow the whole life of the engine so it will be coked up with crud, be sure you pull the oil filter and blow compressed air in the bypass hole(the spring loaded ball bearing under the oil filter) this will pop that crap out so oil will flow to the turbo.

Pull the oil pan from the DET and swap it onto the DE, be sure to take this opportunity the clean the bottom end of the DE and make sure the oil pickup is clean and undamaged. You could take this opportunity to shim the oil pump spring to increase oil pressure, don't get crazy with it, no more than two IMO(people that have practical experience with this plese throw you $.02 in a wide base of opinions would help)

swap the DET cams and lifters into the DE head and bolt it back on the block with a 2mm head gasket(somebody here was selling a used one use your own judgement on that) Replace the water pump and timing belt, don't cheap out here get new ones and have peice of mind.

Clean the DET intake of built up crud and ensure the secondaries move freely. Replace all those stupid little water and vacuum hoses now, they need it and doing it on an engine stand is far preferrable to in the car, trust me I have scars to prove it. Having the injectors cleaned professionally would be a good idea and putting them in with new O-rings. An adjustable fuel pressure regulator woul be a smart buy at this point.

Bolt on your turbo and accessories wire it up with the DET harness and computer get a new O2 sensor and clean the AFM and drop it in. You should be able to scream around on this motor at 7-8lbs on the OE DET turbo on premium gas. I would reccomend a fuel pressure gauge and Air/Fuel meter, the DE lacks piston oilers so the pistons can heat up quick and monitoring your mix is crucial to ensuring the engine lasts longer than one of Jennifer Lopez's relationships:pface

NeedCAforS13
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EXCELLENT! you truly are a wonderful source of info TMS! what would we do without you?:D

Sean

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float_6969
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TMS :ylsuper . 's

Guffed
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Right on man. I am truly not worthy for that info...*copy paste for later use* Thanks TMS

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float_6969
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Oh, it's not just you. None of us are. Hehehe.

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themadscientist
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glad to help. Been there done that, losing my hair for it.:(


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