link? does he have a dyno? what sort of engine management?Iceman00 wrote:Boost is for bishez.The KA needs a real intake manifold, and Cams to make top end power. JWT or Crower V3's would do the trick.
Greaser on Freshalloy made a 210whp on a All motor KA, so it can be done.
but why would you want 210whp when you can have 400whp?Iceman00 wrote:Boost is for bishez.The KA needs a real intake manifold, and Cams to make top end power. JWT or Crower V3's would do the trick.
Greaser on Freshalloy made a 210whp on a All motor KA, so it can be done.
Because some people don't feel the need to compensate for other inadequacies? But seriously, I'm not sure what would be the point of 400hp in a car under 3000lbs, unless you put it on the track. This question has popped up every now and again- why shoot for 200 when you can do twice that for cheaper. And people say "to be different" or "because I don't like turbo".But honestly, if I can hit 180 whp with matching torque and responsiveness of NA, I'll be very happy with the results. I already have to be a little cautious on take off- I can't imagine what driving would be like in this car with more than double that.I don't know. I'm at work and probably shouldn't have opened this can of worms, I guess I just hate the turbo trolling.-RJ- wrote:
but why would you want 210whp when you can have 400whp?
Yeah, he had a Dyno. It was about 207whp and 200+wtq. Awesome. Check Freshalloy for "greaser" in the KA forums.Ajax wrote:
link? does he have a dyno? what sort of engine management?
He also droped like 5 grand+ doing it. AEM EMS, race gas, ITB's, just a stupid amount of work and money for... 200 hp..... You can do a 1500 dollar budget turbo build and hit 250ish hp with no problems.Iceman00 wrote:Greaser on Freshalloy made a 210whp on a All motor KA, so it can be done.
Lets be honest here, you don't have to drop the coin he did to get close, and you know it.480sx wrote:
He also droped like 5 grand+ doing it. AEM EMS, race gas, ITB's, just a stupid amount of work and money for... 200 hp..... You can do a 1500 dollar budget turbo build and hit 250ish hp with no problems.
N/A ka is a waist unless your doing a FCW crank build. The ka doesnt want to make power up top because of its half weighted crank.
Iceman00 wrote: Lets be honest here, you don't have to drop the coin he did to get close, and you know it.
Completely false. Greaser Made this mch power on 3 things.Manifold: he used ITBCams: More aggressive than JWT and V2'sTuning: The EMS, and tuning time is what made this cost a lot.480sx wrote:
I am being honest here dude. You DO have to drop that kind of money. A KA with bolt ons isnt going to get you even 170 hp.
What you guys dont understand is this is NOT a freaken honda. The motor was not built to rev high. It was not designed with a fully counterweighted crank. It has a half counterweighted crank. Basically, what this means is that when the engine is at high rpm operation, crank vibrations and harmonics are really harsh. This eats your power up exponentially as you go up the RPM range. On every Ka dyno you can see this. Your TQ starts to take a serious dive after 5500 rpms, and your hp doesnt climb anywhere nearly as sharply as it would on a FCW motor. (honda, DSM, w/e)
Out of the 100's of Ka24De N/A builds, this is ONE GUY thats got over 200 hp. Everyone else has fallen far short of the 200 hp goal. The idea that your going to be able to duplicate his results without spending as much money as he has is absurd.
If you want to go for a N/A build, i would suggest a SOHC as it has much more room for a more aggressive cam.
Or, get a 1600+ dollar FCW crank for a Ka24de and rock on with your bad N/A self. Build a 10k rev limit head, and hit 300 hp with race gas and high comp pistons.
What?Dyno is the basic measuring tool for hp and torque. Times and speeds at the strip are affected by too many variables such as tires and gearing, wind, elevation, driver experience (or lack thereof). Not that they don't have value, mind you, but its just not a good way to judge the quality of an engine by itself. Some dynos measure differently than others, yes, but there are only a few types and they generally will give similar results between same models- Most dynojets will be comparable to each other. Clayton is the only one I can think of that gives statistically different numbersYes Greaser spent a lot of time on the dyno and went through several iterations of intake setups (I really just skimmed the thread- he used ITBs and 100 octane) and tuninghttp://forums.nicoclub.com/showthread.php?t=186114I'm looking for the other thread I read yesterday.There it is:sho...24190I obviously should have stayed out of this whole thing; I see that now.480sx wrote:Also, were talking about Dyno HP which is kinda just an abstract number. Every dyno measures hp differently, and is really just a tuning tool. Real HP is measured by trap times+weight of the car at the strip.
Iceman makes a point...as far as cheep..its not gona happen..im trying a ka24de N/A build myself...its been nothing but an adventure in finding deals..it can be done thou.....there is an article about a ka24de that was 190ish at the wheels..and then converted to turbo with over 700+ whp..scary....before you turbo man..think about your gaol for the car...are you a drag racer?...then just get headstuds and spray!..cheep hsp!...are you a drifter..you dont need super hps for drifting..just a love for it...or do you touge?..you might want a turbo there for straits and after the corrner..there is alot to think about...allso tuning a cars motor you have to consider what rpm range your tuning for?...low..low to mid..mid to high..high end?..the possibilitys are endless...stay N/A for now..figure out what style you prefer..then upgrade for power later.Iceman00 wrote:Boost is for bishez.The KA needs a real intake manifold, and Cams to make top end power. JWT or Crower V3's would do the trick.
Greaser on Freshalloy made a 210whp on a All motor KA, so it can be done.
If you ask me Greaser was into boosting engines and his concept of head porting was a bit on the excessive side for intake velocity. His engine would of probably made better numbers with just a slight 1 mm port increase to the head. Instead of porting and extruding the crap out of it.(My Personal Opinion)480sx wrote:
He also droped like 5 grand+ doing it. AEM EMS, race gas, ITB's, just a stupid amount of work and money for... 200 hp.....
The KA engine does O.K though. I've made my stock block rev happy to 6500RPM peak power rather than the stock peak power of 5800 rpm just by changing to the N60 MAF and changing the K value that the ecu will think it responds to under load.Sure a lighter fully counter weighted crank would be better harmonically for that happy rev place and additional HP to about 7000 maybe 8000peak, but me like most people that do NA KA's are just frugal, cheap SOB's .480sx wrote:N/A ka is a waist unless your doing a FCW crank build. The ka doesnt want to make power up top because of its half weighted crank.
Dyno tuning isn't abstract . Dyno tuning machines use an equation to give a statistical average that is based off the 5200/5200 RPM cross over. In reality does any engine truely make a torque and HP crossover at exactly 5200/5200 RPM... NO but it is a guidline to put an engine measurement within the realm to satifactory tune an engine and show comparisons from losses and gains.If it was abstract there simply wouldn't be any type of mathmatical equation to follow, it would just be all over ther place, well like an abstract painting....480sx wrote:
Also, were talking about Dyno HP which is kinda just an abstract number. Every dyno measures hp differently, and is really just a tuning tool. Real HP is measured by trap times+weight of the car at the strip.