N1 oil pump

[bmadd2402]

Just to clarify, there is only one N1 oil pump which fits the RB25 and 26, correct? I just found the pump listed 2 ways on a website, so had to clarify. they had two listings: an RB25 N1 pump and an RB26 pump, which doesn't make sense because the N1 is associated with a GTR (RB26). just wanted to double-tap it before blowing my cash.

[Carl H]

n1 pump fits any rb motor, assuming the motor has a later model crank or a crank collar.

[bmadd2402]

The n1 wont fit if you have the short crank snout? I'm startin to hate this car. you cant just do a little here and a little there, you gotta do it all at once, or you dont drive the damn thing.

[eh?]

Why are you buying a new pump?afaik the N1 just has a stiffer spring allowing for higher pressure..

[Carl H]

you can fit a n1 pump to a short snout crank but it has the potential to assplode just like any oil pump on an uncollared crank.

[Kansei240sx]

Whats the best way to put the oil crank collar mod on? How did you do yours?

[Carl H]

crank has to come out of the block and fitted at the machine shop, even if you had the drive flats welded and extended it would have to be done that way.

[Darius]

There's really no easy way to get around this design flaw. If you are planning on building the motor in the future, this modification MUST be done if your it is one of those in the faulty production range.

Otherwise, you can just give me the few thousand bucks you would have spent on the build, slap a stick of dynamite to the side of your block, and light it off. ASSPLODE! as Carl H says

And bmadd2402 - i know exactly what you are talking about with doing it all at once. I've had the motor for over a year and have still not driven it. Feels like my hobby is no longer this car, but disassembling and reassembling the motor with a never ending alimony payment to boot.

[bmadd2402]

well, I have had mine since Feb 04, and it has been runnin strong, but the turbo was on its way out, so i pulled it and found 4 broken studs. te head will have to be machined cause the studs are broken off inside, and the oil pressure jumps around alittle and is alittle low somtimes, it has the stock waterpump, and an OE tbelt. so I decided to pull the whole thing. i will redo my swap, clean some things up, but I'm just scared to go into the bottom end.I figure once i get the head off, I'll look at the pistons, and pull the oil pump, check the crank and the bearings. if everything else except the pump looks good, oh well. I dont abuse the thing. It should be OK. a complete dis-assembly is needed to do the crank collar, correct? I was trying to stay away from that for awhile.

[Darius]

You don't have to do a complete disassembly, but when you pull the oil pump you will be able to see if the flat area of the oil pump drive is rounding off. Then you will be able to determine whether or not you need to remove your crank.

[bmadd2402]

I totally understand why you need the collar, but it just seems like too much to get the crank out for what I am doing. How involved is the crank removal? my point is,if I am going into that, I might as well rebuild the whole thing. that is what I wanted to stay away from. The motor came from McKinney, and that thing has purred since I got it. I Know the bottom is in good shape. WHAT A DILEMA!!!

[gawdzilla]

How involved is the crank removal?

pulling the crank is basically the last thing you do in a teardown. once that is out all you have left is a bare block.

imo, no point in removing the crank w/o rebuilding

if it runs fine, let it run the way it is. iff or once it dies, rebuild it.

[Carl H]

honestly unless you are doing serious track work or chasing mad horseypowers the n1 pump is overkill for most people.same goes for the collaring, while it is definately a good saftey percaution for most it is overkill.keep an sane redline and power at a moderate level and you will be ok.

[bmadd2402]

the only reason I am doing the N1 pump is cause I found one at a great price and am doing the waterpump, TB+tensioner and idler pulleys, and HG since I have to pull the head. I'll probly hot tank the head and put new valve seals, etc. I chase no numbers. I just love the 240, and the RB is a strong engine for it. and I like to fiddle with ****.

[sil_eightyRPS13]

I totally understand why you need the collar, but it just seems like too much to get the crank out for what I am doing. How involved is the crank removal? my point is,if I am going into that, I might as well rebuild the whole thing. that is what I wanted to stay away from. The motor came from McKinney, and that thing has purred since I got it. I Know the bottom is in good shape. WHAT A DILEMA!!!

its not the conditon of the motor, but the poor design of the the pump at high rpm...(25 and 26)...i used a R33GTR crank which has a longer snout. it still spun..so its collar time...

honestly unless you are doing serious track work or chasing mad horseypowers the n1 pump is overkill for most people.same goes for the collaring, while it is definately a good saftey percaution for most it is overkill.keep an sane redline and power at a moderate level and you will be ok.

and its hard to keep of redline when a big turbo hits a bunch of boost.. its gone to rev limit in a matter of a second!!!! of course drifting is never good for many auto parts as its very abusive...lol

[bmadd2402]

My point in that post was that the ONLY reason for me to touch my bottom end is to get the crank out for the collar, and I dont think it is necessary to dis assemble the entire block for that.

[load=MAPoverBAP!]

The Jun Oil Collar is around $120 shipped from nengun.com. You can also get the Tomei Oil gallery orifice there for $15.

[l0nestar]

This may sound kinda dumb, but around what power level do you need to begin looking into the tomei oil galleys?

[Carl H]

the restrictors arnt hp dependent but rather on application.for people that plan on tracking the car or for a car that will see extended high rpm use one should consider restrictors.fwiw rhdjapan sells the restrictors for 6$usd each...hella deal imho.

[gawdzilla]

delete

[l0nestar]

Well then, thanks!

I'm questioning if I will need them, My plans are mostly my dd, but may experience some mild track / autox (2-3x per year max) I'm only shooting for 300 whp. Would you suggest I invest in these peices? Or is it 'would not hurt'. Thanks Carl.

[Darius]

For your application, I wouldn't worry about it. They are mainly for extended periods of high revs where the oil pump pumps oil into the head at a faster rate than it returns to the sump.

[Carl H]

darius is spot on...i fitted them to mycar even tho its a dd mainly because i have a 8.5k redline and plan to track it when i can afford to, that and i flog it on a daily basis.

[l0nestar]

Darius,

Thanks for the info! Extended high rev's like drift as well right?

CarlH,I got ya, but I'm wondering if I should do it now if I so decide to. I realized after you said that, that I tend to flog my current dd. Oh yeah, thanks as well Carl!

Edit: New thread created.
Modified by l0nestar at 4:56 PM 10/6/2006