N/A VH45DE DYNORUN Results!! Those Who Have Please Post For Comparison

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PopPop
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Found this from a while back and wanted to see where this stands in comparison to other N/A G50 Dyno runs. I see members talking about it but, would like to see what type of TORQUE and HP their Q's were making. These were done with Q going threw 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear shifts. Trans. Control Unit stayed plugged in and made 2 runs. First was MAX. RWHP= 251.44 and Max. Torque was= 264.26 Run number 2 was Max. RWHP was = 252.93 and TQ=264.69
Modified by PopPop at 7:02 AM 4/5/2007


maxnix
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Sounds like a very optimistic dynamometer.

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qsiguy
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I should be getting a dyno done in the next couple weeks to get a baseline number prior to making some mods. I'll post the results here. I do plan on disconnecting the kick down switch or unplugging the TCU.

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Rex
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All are Rear Wheel Numbers

Before (04/01/2004) 226.0 HP 256.3 TQ

After (03/24/2005)274.6 HP 285.0 TQ

Robert/NICO 8-Way ECU, 4.08 Rearend, 92 transmission, LevelTen with 2,400 Stall, Custom Ram-Air JWT PopCharger, Custom Headers, BRM Exhaust

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Jeff Williams
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STILLEN CAI, early NICO ECU, worn out transmission, HOT day, SAE adjusted Rear Wheel numbers (Not sure why the TQ is down so much in the lower RPM range. I think the guy running it didn't go WOT until it was close to 4,000 RPM because it was trying to downshift). A/F ratio was WAY lean for some reason. It usually runs rich at lower RPM's.




PopPop
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Keep in mind that I had the Pop Charger installed and stock ECU/ Trans/ Diff/ Etc. Now that I have done more mods over the last year with the Torque Converter and Roberts Nico ECU I may try again. What are the factory RWHP and TQ numbers someone please post as guideline.

PopPop
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How to convert RWHP and RWTQ to HP and TQ

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Rex
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PopPop wrote:How to convert RWHP and RWTQ to HP and TQ
You have to make an assumption on "drive train loss". I commonly see people use ~18-20% for cars with AT's.

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elwesso
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you cant compare numbers from other poeples dyno sheets... You have to do a base run on yours and then you keep using the same dyno as you continue to monitor progress.

PopPop
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Rex wrote:
You have to make an assumption on "drive train loss". I commonly see people use ~18-20% for cars with AT's.
That's about what I've heard around 15%-20% auto trans.

Q45tech
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Unfortunately tires are the largest loss component in the drive train....the friction loss between the hub expanding to the wheel, wheel tire and road/dyno drum interface.

Every tire and size and inflation and alignment will be different AND it will change as the tire heats up from just transmitting the forces to spin the drum.

Same with lubricants their friction decreases with temperature,however in the case of a torque convertor it's efficiency drops as the ATF get thinner from heat.

For years we have used 22% for HP peak rpm and 21% for torque peak rpm..........the correction factors increase as the rpms increase so a dyno graph is always wrong if a correction factor is added to try to measure flywheel HP.

THE TRUTH comes from multiple averaged quarter, half and top speed tests.Adjusted for air density.

Why is the engine flywheel important other than marketing?

The 3.8-5% extra loss in an AT are from the internal ATF pump and torque convertor losses which vary with rpm.

Research differentials and see how their losses vary with rotating speed and of course temperature.

Tiretread on a dyno starts out as ambient a rises 150-200F in a simple 10 sec run....................lack of cooling air blown over car at same speed as test really throws things for a loop.

Never seen a 150 mph wind fan except in a wind tunnel?

I always use a stop watch and time 50-80 mph [2nd gear WOT] 5.8 secs acceleration as my refence standard ............legalish, safe, and repeatable.

Each 0.1 second variation represents 20 lb/ft variation .

Acceleration in second gear: engine torque x 3.538 x 1.544 [90-93Q] x loaded tire radius x2 = rear wheel torque x friction losses [0.787? or 22.3%].

StarPD
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Elwesso is entirely correct. Dyno comparisons are valid ony with the same dyno.

And Q45tech is also right. While dyno can provide info for tuning and engine health, it's the actual performance that counts. Doesn't matter if the dyno says you have a lot of HP if the car is slower than others like it in similar condition. Likewise if the dyno says you are low on power, but peroformance is good and 1/4 mile times are average or better, you're still okay. There are differences in dynos and their operators, as well as differeces in traction with the drum depending on tires, ambient temp, air avialbility, and so on.

Best way to use dynoe figures is to get a baseline test, then regularly test as you make changes to the engine. Expensive, but telling if you intend to do much tuning, mods, and/or just maintenance improvements (filters, plugs, injectors, KS, ECU, oil/trans/diff fluid changes, trans cooler, etc).

Q45tech
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All the chassis dyno does is measure drum acceleration in 1/100 or 1/1000 of a second increments and calculate how much torque it takes to accomplish that based on weight of drum.

The problem is the drum doesn't weigh as much as the car so it is inaccurately loading the engine compared to a road PLUS there is no wind resistance to show down acceleration of engine.

Dynos are not really stressing an engine or drivetrain very much compared to the highway.


maxnix
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I have never understood the "dyno" slang as the proper word is dynamometer.

Who were those stupid Greeks anyway?

StarPD
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maxnix wrote:I have never understood the "dyno" slang as the proper word is dynamometer.

Who were those stupid Greeks anyway?
Those "stupid Greeks" were the ones who gave is most of the words we use today. They are the basis of much of the English language. Those same "stupid Greeks" gave the Western world most of it's culture: science, architecture, drama, mathematics, medicine, politics, philosophy, poetry, literature, military strategy and tactics, and a host of other ideas that raised mankind from primitive life.


PopPop
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StarPD wrote:Elwesso is entirely correct. Dyno comparisons are valid ony with the same dyno.

And Q45tech is also right. While dyno can provide info for tuning and engine health, it's the actual performance that counts. Doesn't matter if the dyno says you have a lot of HP if the car is slower than others like it in similar condition. Likewise if the dyno says you are low on power, but peroformance is good and 1/4 mile times are average or better, you're still okay. There are differences in dynos and their operators, as well as differeces in traction with the drum depending on tires, ambient temp, air avialbility, and so on.

Best way to use dynoe figures is to get a baseline test, then regularly test as you make changes to the engine. Expensive, but telling if you intend to do much tuning, mods, and/or just maintenance improvements (filters, plugs, injectors, KS, ECU, oil/trans/diff fluid changes, trans cooler, etc).
The same also applies to going to the race track also! I'm looking to see similarities in performance based on different MOD'S from Q TO Q. No two tracks are the same and no two drivers are the same so the same applies to the drag strip. U will almost never have the same ET or MPH as the next man in almost the same car. Same driver different track will still yield different results. I can say this before taking any car to a Dyno U had better make sure it's been gone over very well because the Dyno will put a lot of stress on a G50. Not worried about validation. If we all used the same Dyno someone would still come up with some

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qsiguy
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The place close to me I have decided to go to for my dyno runs uses a dyno that you bolt the hubs directly to so that should eliminate the tire losses. I will be using this same shop as I complete mods and tuning. Been home taking care of the family all this week so didn't get to the dyno. Hopefully I'll make it over there next week and I'll have something to post.

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qsiguy
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Got my dyno done today but unfortunately I have a knock sensor issue that I just found out about this morning when I tried to get the emission test done and failed so the numbers aren't what they should be. The NICO ECU must have a pretty mild knock map because it wasn't too bad but the stock ECU was VERY low.

NICO stage 1 ECUMax HP=222.2Max Tq=221.3

Stock ECUMax HP=151.2Max Tq=198.7

This is a dyno that you bolt the wheels right up to. I have video but I need to transfer it to the computer. Numbers weren't what I'd hoped but it sure sounded cool!

speedingminivan
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Accounting for DT power loss, does that mean the motors make the ~300 HP claimed?

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CrimsonQ
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lol nico ecu gave 71 hp on yours? I know the KS you mentioned. but thats funny.

Sell it with that claim. 71hp for mere pennies on the dollar!

Nice run even though the ks is gone

PopPop
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Did U disconnect your TCU like U said U were? Dyno runs are very hard on these VH45DE'S and will find a weak point in the engine. I would do a cylinder compression check to make sure U didn't do any damage!

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qsiguy
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yes, disconnected the TCU and it stayed in 3rd gear all the time, no mater what gear I put the shifter in (any of the forward gears that is)

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qsiguy
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Here are a couple of videos from my baseline dyno session @ 222.2 hp with bad knock sensors.




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elwesso
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NICE!!! Was all that noise just from the intake (IE you have stock exhaust)

That thing sounds nasty..

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qsiguy
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yes, stock exhaust and my old intake. New CAI sounds better I think. Could be my imagination tho.


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