N/a Problems at operating temperature

[SleepyN/A]

Well, I have been trouble shooting on this car for some time and have not figured out what could be making this car act up. Now the car falls on its face around 3-4K rpms after being driven for a while. I do have a code for egr and injector but I don't believe it could be effecting it this bad. I have replaced the fuel pump due to this and it being noisy, common symptoms even though this new one is noisy as well under load. I'm not sure what else this could be please help

[everpresentnoob]

well if you did the fuel pump, did you do the fuel filter as well? EGR failure could be causing a massive air leak if it is stuck open I believe. Code for injector.... Is that referencing Fuel Injectors? Put a screwdriver on the cap of each injector while the motor is running and press your ear to the handle. if the injector is working you will hear a steady clicking. If it is bad it wont be steady. When I got my Z and was working through its issues I had one injector that just didnt do anything, and another that would work until around 2K. then it would fail. Replaced both and my issues cleared up. My car was missing and hesitating at 2.5K-3.5K prior to injector replacement. If you find that you have one or two bad injectors you can either get creative and replace just them, or do a plenum pull and replace them all. I opted to use the "Dremel" method and just replace my bad injectors. Here is a write up on that. http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/155253.html .

Good luck with the Z.

[SleepyN/A]

Yes I did replace the fuel filter, funny part it was the factory one, gross. I'm hoping this is the eye messing up and one injector and not one of the managing systems

[everpresentnoob]

Yea. good luck. thats always fun on any car, but with all the room we have in our Z's it makes it even more of a challenge.

[SleepyN/A]

Turns out all but 4&5 are no good, they work for a while and then they'll cut out. Not looking forward to spending $400 on injectors

[bobyknish]

Do you need old style injectors or new style? I have a full set of nearly new, fully working old style injectors in a duel rail, as well as a few miscellaneous injectors in another fuel rail

[SleepyN/A]

They are new style, I got the plenum off today to find completely clogged egr lines. Could this cause injector malfunction?

[DCaff300ZX]

The EGR lines may be clogged due to the EGR being bypassed/non-functional which is VERY common, and has nothing to do with injector failure.
The Z32 injectors most often fail because of two things- electricity and water.
Electricity gets them because pre-1994 Nissan wired them in a way that they are "always on", which means that electricity is present at all times in the injector. There is a how-to at tt.net that covers the solution to that problem, which Nissan performed on all 1995 and later Z32's, but be aware that another issue develops that you need to deal with potentially in the interests of shops being able to correctly diagnose your codes, but that solution is also covered in the discussion below the mod thread if you decide to go this route. The mod is easy enough that a non-electrical guy like me did the mod easily, but I did not do the further mod as I know how to keep a code long enough to use but which requires understanding the whole process which I won't take time going over here...so just do the further mod if you do the first one, it's a viable and acceptable solution.
Back to the electricity/water/injector issue, where this electricity-always-on is an issue is that this causes electrolysis as the wet tip of the injector (again, a Nissan design flaw that has been corrected in the aftermarket with the JWT upgraded injector installation kit, which also allows use of your old style fuel rail unlike in the past where a new setup was also needed there) allows the electricity to move along the injector, and which causes the injector to fail prematurely via electrolysis (deterioration of the metal and plastic/rubber seals), and especially if presented with water (alchohol) in the fuel as is the case with oxygenated gasoline that we are forced to use.
The poor old non-moisture-shielded injector shorts out due to constant overload, or from a short due to the corroded electrical connectors and "green crud" corrosion there, and generally both.
So, understanding this all leads you to the fact that ALL of your pre-'94 old style injectors and connectors are on their deathbed, as all of mine were in both of my Z32's and countless others, and that other than 120K service, fuel injector (and connector) replacement is by far the most common repair work done to the Z32.
If the costs and trouble are too much for you, then be warned that it is just the tip of the iceberg on our old Ladies, and that you may be better off with a different car than the Z32.
Hope this helps, Good Luck!

[SleepyN/A]

Well I got the car back together after pulling the plenum. Runs fine except for the fact that it has a code for coolant temp sensor and idle jumps up, then down, then up again at startup. Could this have something to do with coolant temp sensor? I understand these can make the car do funny things.

[SleepyN/A]

I have replaced the fuel pump, injectors, vacuum lines, deleted the egr prvr, and the car still fuel cuts around 5K. But only when warm and under load!!!!

[Rogue One]

I have replaced the fuel pump, injectors, vacuum lines, deleted the egr prvr, and the car still fuel cuts around 5K. But only when warm and under load!!!!

SleepyN/A, while I can appreciate your frustration at being unable to solve your problem, starting a new thread for an ongoing discussion won't help, and is not permitted.

[SleepyN/A]

My bad Rogue. Forgot about this one. In addition to previous replacements, I have now replaced the injectors, deleted the egr, prvr, and replaced the coolant temp sensor. Car still won't go past 5K under load. What else could it be? Fuel damper maybe? I haven't test my regulator yet, I'll be getting something to test fuel pressure today