N/A built motors for sale?

[GatorS14]

I was wondering are there any companies/tuner shops that sell all motor built (KA)engines ready to drop in?If so post info please.

Sorry if this question sounds dumb,but it sounds like a good buisness idea if someone doesnt.(i think spoon does it with honduh)

I'm interested in a 210-240 n/a KA. perferably w/ warranty.And ready to drop in.Like I said sorry if this is just a crazy question.

thanks

[RedShred]

I dont think, personally, that there is such a demand yet. I have over 4K in my motor... and everyone knows you can get a clip w/ sr for alot less than that, that will be more reliable. Sure I have a warranty, but all my motor mods have to go through him to continue my warranty, which means I get a bit of a raping everytime the motors is split.

I lost to a turbo'd eclipse the other day... he was running 16lbs... Nope, didnt like it. Now I'm looking for a way to put on a small centrifical supercharger. All Motor has it's place, but if you dont like to lose, might as well start to consider a forced induction type setup before you start thumping down BIG money. Or build it to hold a 100 horse shot to make it fully competetive.

[apzak]

Daunttless does it http://www.afterdark-tuning.co...ified

[JJ240]

To get a 210-240HP n/a KA24DE you would have to pump tons of money into it. things like standalone fuel management and individual throttle bodies, really damn high compression, super radical cams. Stuff that you wouldnt want to do to a daily driver. Even with high compression, I/H/E, cams, ECU you will probably barely see 200HP to the wheels.

[Titan]

I dont think, personally, that there is such a demand yet. I have over 4K in my motor... and everyone knows you can get a clip w/ sr for alot less than that, that will be more reliable.

More reliable? Wouldn't a fully rebuilt motor (with 10.5 CR, head port, slightly aggressive cams, etc.) be more reliable then a turbo motor?

[JJ240]

anything is reliable if you tune it correctly and dont drive like a fool. you will get alot more HP from turbo than 10.5:1 compression, semi-mild street cams, and porting for the same amount of money.

[Titan]

anything is reliable if you tune it correctly and dont drive like a fool. you will get alot more HP from turbo than 10.5:1 compression, semi-mild street cams, and porting for the same amount of money.

Oh I'm not debating power output at all, I'm just wondering why everybody seems to think built high-comp. motors are unreliable.

[JJ240]

10.5:1 isnt that high. When you start to get above 11:1 you really have to watch what fuel you put in. The tendancy to pre-detonate is alot higher with a high compression NA motor than a boosted motor making the same HP.

[Titan]

Yeah, I was assuming 94 octane minimum, even on 10.5 or 11.

Now, I was wondering. How streetable and reliable do you think the following KA24E would be:

- Fully rebuilt- 10.5:1 or 11:1 Pistons- Medium head port- Reground cams (a few degrees over stock - or maximum to maintain fairly smooth idle)- Shaved and balanced crank- 2.5" exhaust- 2.5" intake (possibly relocate battery to trunk, and have a short intake pipe)

Thats about it.

I mean, I'd go turbo, but my compression is 155-160 accross the board... and I need then engine to last a decent 3 years.

What do you think?

[JJ240]

Well id watch out with higher lift cams and higher compression. Im just about ready to put my engine back in my 240. While finishing up the timing I realized with my SOHC pistons in the DOHC milled down to 10.5:1 compression I cant rotate the exhaust cam to have the valves for cylinder 1 open while its at TDC, now I know they arent ever open all the way while its at TDC so it will run, but I would worry with higher lift cams that I would smash a valve. For a second I thought the pistons were too tall and wouldnt work when I was doing the timing. I dont think shaving and balancing the crank would be so important depending on the price. The KA doesnt make power high enough to need it to rev very high.

[nlzmo400r]

im pretty sure DAUNT will build ur KA to 2oohp for like 13oo bux, not bad if u ask me, and if u wanna stay NA, thats cool, something lil different

[JJ240]

if i recall correctly daunttless' price for a 200HP KA24DE was $3000

[nlzmo400r]

thank you, i realized after i typed it, i was like, hmm, seems kinda low, yea, 3k was it, but for a 2oohp NA ka, thats kinda cool

[Titan]

im pretty sure DAUNT will build ur KA to 2oohp for like 13oo bux, not bad if u ask me, and if u wanna stay NA, thats cool, something lil different

Build-up to 200 horse as in turbo? Or build-up in terms of all motor?

Because I thought DAUNT had his all motor's priced higher? And I can't go turbo due to my low compression.

JJ240, what kind of power do you predict with the setup that I listed? Think I'll loose alot of low end? Any ideas on approx. how long the motor will last?

Thanks

[JJ240]

$1300 was the price for a KA rebuilt to factory specs with new parts. I think your engine will last you as long as any factory ones will if you do it right, retorque everything to spec, hone your bore for your rings good or take it to a machine shop, new rodbearings, new water pump, new oil pump. With 11:1 compression you will have to change your fuel system a bit. maybe just an SAFC to give it a little more fuel, and the nismo cams would probably be safe. No more lift just more duration. Im no expert but I believe you could make a reliable 200HP KA. Just have to make sure the motor is rebuilt well. And maintain it well too.

[RedShred]

I have... right now:

-KA24E-.020 overbore with Forged Aluminum pistons-Nismo rods-10:1 compression-91 minimum octaine.-Balanced and Blueprinted-Port and polish with slightly blended bowls-5 angle valve job-1.5 rocker ratio -Custom Cam:I .450 lift w/ 268* durationE .450 lift w/ 272* duration-Hotshot-No Cat-2.5 exhaust-Intake with open air Conical K&N-no AC

Cam Gear coming so I can get it indexed correctly... may or may not help the shaking.

Is it fast, yup REALLY fast for an all motor 240... But the IDLE is for shiz. The car shakes like crazy until I rev to about 1800 rpm. To leave a light, I need to rev up to over 2000rpm with some clutch feathering. The engine if very very peaky making great power from 4 grand to 7 grand. Anything up to that is useless... and I left the butterflies in the intake.

Anything more than this would make it a pain in the arse to drive everyday. You might think its cool for a little while but its irratataing really. When I am in stop and go traffic it SUCKS like a crack ho. As long as I am running 3000-4000 rpm while cruising, everything is great.. the motor sings and runs nice without giving you that choppy over eager throttle response you get above 4K when the motor "comes on the cam".

I get about 20 miles to the gallon on average though... that is a combination of driving with a few street races per tank.

I use a stock ECU and stock injectors... but I'm on the edge of being too much for the ECU already.

This is why I say a stock SR is more reliable. I should of said more reliable and more streetable.

[float_6969]

Everyone seems to get it into thier head the if a car is turbocharged it has a limited lifetime, and that is simply untrue. I don't seen any reason why a completely stock SR,CA, or KA that have been treated well can't see 200,000 miles. I currently have a KA24E with over 200,000 miles and it still runs alright. It burns some oil, but nothing you can see out of the tailpipe. Turning up the boost WILL shorten the lifespan of your motor, but so will upping the compression ratio. I was reading an article about a race team that took an AE86, put a rediculous amount of boost and upgrades on the motor and were measuring the lifespan of it in HOURS! But this was a purpose built race car and it only needed to last the season. If you buy a turbocharged motor and mildly mod it, you will still get a good long life out of it.

[I am Technoman]

Boost =high compression

[JJ240]

Although daily driving turbo you dont hit those higher actual compression numbers till youre in boost. So you could just keep it under 3k rpms and not be that high, whereas an NA car with 11.5:1 compression has that no matter where he is in the rpm range.

[Rownan]

I have... right now:

-KA24E-.020 overbore with Forged Aluminum pistons-Nismo rods-10:1 compression-91 minimum octaine.-Balanced and Blueprinted-Port and polish with slightly blended bowls-5 angle valve job-1.5 rocker ratio -Custom Cam:I .450 lift w/ 268* durationE .450 lift w/ 272* duration-Hotshot-No Cat-2.5 exhaust-Intake with open air Conical K&N-no AC

Cam Gear coming so I can get it indexed correctly... may or may not help the shaking.

Is it fast, yup REALLY fast for an all motor 240... But the IDLE is for shiz. The car shakes like crazy until I rev to about 1800 rpm. To leave a light, I need to rev up to over 2000rpm with some clutch feathering. The engine if very very peaky making great power from 4 grand to 7 grand. Anything up to that is useless... and I left the butterflies in the intake.

Anything more than this would make it a pain in the arse to drive everyday. You might think its cool for a little while but its irratataing really. When I am in stop and go traffic it SUCKS like a crack ho. As long as I am running 3000-4000 rpm while cruising, everything is great.. the motor sings and runs nice without giving you that choppy over eager throttle response you get above 4K when the motor "comes on the cam".

I get about 20 miles to the gallon on average though... that is a combination of driving with a few street races per tank.

I use a stock ECU and stock injectors... but I'm on the edge of being too much for the ECU already.

This is why I say a stock SR is more reliable. I should of said more reliable and more streetable.

You forked out the cash for forged pistons and only went to 10:1 compression? what are you using to tune the fuel? And I think your drivability issue is less due to your setup and more to due with a mechanical problem.. I am running 11:1 in a KA24DE as a daily driver and have NONE of the problems you are experiencing, my car is smooth as butter. Perhaps the DOHC engine takes to high compression better??

I would seriously consider some type of fuel management if you don't have any already..

Timhttp://www.projectaspec.com

[RedShred]

I am running 11:1 in a KA24DE as a daily driver and have NONE of the problems you are experiencing, my car is smooth as butter. Perhaps the DOHC engine takes to high compression better??

I would seriously consider some type of fuel management if you don't have any already..Timhttp://www.projectaspec.com

I didnt want 11+ compression... I have a motorcyle which is a 1 cyl that has 12.5:1 and making Gas for it is a *****... I didnt want that in my car so I kept it down to 10.

As for the shaking... It's the cam. I had a milder cam in it before and it didnt do this. Its just lopey if you know what i'm talking about.I use Chevron 91 oct gas with no issues of detonation. I am not having any fuel issues that I know of apart from a richness at extended WOT... But I did skimp on the injectors buying low mileage used stock... I imagine they cant control themselves for long. I am going to install a smallish 3-4lb centrifical supercharger, so at that point i will need a much better fuel management system. Probably just JWT it with Venom injectors

The Point I was trying to make is making a NA KA run like stock SR takes alot of the streetableness out of the engine, depending on your route. I opted for Head/cam mods as my approach. You seem to have taken a much higher Compression ratio. Both roads lead to Rome.

[I am Technoman]

With a cam that radical I don’t think you’re going to get a good idle. I .450 lift w/ 268* duration E .450 lift w/ 272* duration. I’m sure you’re intake vacuum is very low and some sensors can’t work like they did when you’re motor was stock.

Get a Greddy e manage and adjust you’re air/fuel in 500rpm increments.

[Rownan]

I didnt want 11+ compression... I have a motorcyle which is a 1 cyl that has 12.5:1 and making Gas for it is a *****... I didnt want that in my car so I kept it down to 10.

As for the shaking... It's the cam. I had a milder cam in it before and it didnt do this. Its just lopey if you know what i'm talking about.I use Chevron 91 oct gas with no issues of detonation. I am not having any fuel issues that I know of apart from a richness at extended WOT... But I did skimp on the injectors buying low mileage used stock... I imagine they cant control themselves for long. I am going to install a smallish 3-4lb centrifical supercharger, so at that point i will need a much better fuel management system. Probably just JWT it with Venom injectors

The Point I was trying to make is making a NA KA run like stock SR takes alot of the streetableness out of the engine, depending on your route. I opted for Head/cam mods as my approach. You seem to have taken a much higher Compression ratio. Both roads lead to Rome.

The only problem I experience with streetability is that my car does not run on anything less than 93 octane. Everything else is 100% fine, but ask me again in a few months when PDM debuts their stage 6 colt regrinds.

FYI I walk away from stock SRs in my S14. Even mildly modded SRs. It's when they turn up the boost that I am left behind....

Ahhhh.. One day I will be boosted. :ylsuper

[RedShred]

Technoman,You are correct about the cam ****in things up at idle.

Rownan,

I lost a roll on the other day to a 16lb Eclipse. When He ran 7lb in town, we stayed even.

Tis why I am looking for a small supercharger. I figure 3-4 lb wont hurt my motor and keep it alive as long as I dont beat on it all the time.