Post by
Jberger »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/jberger-u226.html
Wed Jul 02, 2003 4:17 pm
I've experianced a similar problem. Here's the ideas I can pass along.
1) Make sure the key is in the proper position, as the mechanism ages, the key can hang just before returning to the RUN position when starting, that can cause the problem.
2) CLOSELY inspect the rear light sockets and CHANGE the lamp fuse. The entire assembly can be disconnected and removed for a good close up. These are prone to overheat or short out, but fortuately, they are quick and easy to change.
I had a similar problem on mine, and it was caused by faulty bulbs and shorts in the sockets. I thought that it was just the sockets, but even after cleaning those to remove the short and changing the bulbs I still had a problem. Use ONLY "LL" suffix bulbs in the sockets to minimize shorts.
The fuses checked fine with a multimeter, when I checked for continutity, but when visually inspected, it was partially burned (probably from the shorted sockets) and would not pass enough current to light everything.
It's a bit difficult to judge which bulb is bad from the outside of the Q. It will "borrow" a nearby bulb to mimic the burned-out bulb. So sometimes it looks like everything is fine, but you've really got a bad bulb in back.