My yr and a half long...and going, KAT project *56k grab a snickers or 2*

[koukiKA240]

This is my 1991 nissan 240sx that started as an $800 project car when i was a freshman in high school. Shes always been my baby and all through high school i worked my but off to pay for all she has now. Start of my senior year in high school i decided i was going to build my old 91 KA for a turbo and started saving up. The engine was complete early july by SGP (thanks Lane for letting me help/watch final assembly) and i started the engine swap mid july in hopes of finishing it in time to enjoy my first week in college with it come mid-august. Yeah right. here it is thanksgiving and its not running smooth yet. 4 weeks ago I finnaly got to fill the engine full of oil and get it runnin. After a long process of getting oil pressure, we hooked up the coil. after the bugs were worked out we got it running. and i dont know whats wrong with it now. We towed it to SGP racing and they diagnosed it as the ECU and SafcII not being able to control he MSD 50# injectors walbro pump and z32 MAF. So off the ECU went to california so JWT can reprogram it. Now im just waiting for it to come home. Jim wolf claims it will ship this week but who knows. OK now that the lovely story is over here are the pics:30 minutes after starting to get it ready to pullwe had to modify this hotpipe as well. turns out Acura TL exhaust is the same diameter, so thats hat we used for pipe.vacume line funLong day. If the engine hoise wouldnt have broken and the search for a new one wouldnt have taken 5 hrs it wouldnt have been dark. Im the one on the right and my parter was Justin.after a couple hours of cleaningThe Built 91 engine goes in after a couple weeks of cleaning parts and taking my time to get the new engine ready to drop in. during this time i also wired up the SAFCII, AVC-R, gauges, and walbro fuel pump. And i think i was also waiting on some backorder parts.it may look like a clusterF**k but its all been soldered and shrink tube insulated.IAp intercooler kit with black piping. I put one thin coat of black spray paint on the core for that stealth look.This is our handywork on the mounting of the intercooler. Not shown is how on the cold u pipe to the up pipe and how it had to be extended 3 inches to make it to the intercooler.drilled one hole in the front support for one side of the bracket and the other is in the stock location of temp sensor. put the temp sensor on top of bracket with the bolt that holds the top of the intercooler.we had to modify the IAP manifold so that the TIAL 35mm wastegate didnt rest on the A/C line. The second pic is after jet coating.finished and just before we made an attempt to get it runningafter a day of trying to figure out why it didnt run correctyl. The next day it went to SGP where they diagnosed it needed a JWT ECU. I hope they are right.

I just wanna thank everyone on this boards (esp the moderators) for helping me through the entire project. Special thanks to:My Dad for the support, Mr kahl and the kahl family for everythig, and all my friends for the help. And my girlfriend for putting up with my absenses.DONE~Sam

there are a lot more pictures on my comp and for some reason it kinda got outta order but it has taken forever to make this post, but please at least enjoy the pics

Modified by koukiKA240 at 1:49 AM 11/17/2004
Modified by koukiKA240 at 1:52 AM 11/17/2004

[NX95240]

looks damn good . kept us posted on it. way to go

[silkk]

Shes hot!

[Redline240]

I love seeing true DIY backyard setups! Sure the pros can do it better, but where's the fun in that?

Redline

[574-240sx]

Looks very clean. Good job.

[koukiKA240]

I left out the engine specs:Block:1991 ka24debored .02 over CP 9.1:1 pistonsPauter connecting rodsbought a new stock crank for the enginere-decked and all bearing surfaces honednew freeze plugs and painted gloss blackpistons/crannk/connecting rods were ballanced in block

Head:Complete Port/polish3 angle valve jobstock valvesJWT valve springs/retainersJWT camsJWT timiing sprockets. all new timing chain and guides ect.new oil pumpre-decked and all bearing surfaces honed

Other:-ITS T60-1 turbo and its been so long i forget the trim and A/R but is supposed to be good for 420 hp with very little lag.-IAP turbo manifold(momdified to work properly)-IAP intercooler kit (all but 2 peices had to be modified to function properly)-Greddy type s BOV vented to atmosphere-Apexi SAFC and AVC-R-Tial 35mm wastegate -IAP oil line kit-z32 maf-injen cone filterhad to cut the 90degree elbow on old injen intake to make a proper 45degree angle peice for the intake on the turbo. The other IAP peice wouldnt fit with MAF and filter.-IAP downpip had to be sent in peices and then cut and rewelded again to fit decent, still isnt 100% perfect-autometer gauges and 2 gauge pod-walbro fuel pump-msd50# top feed injectors -jgy customs fuel rail-Clutchmasters Stage 5 4 puck-Fidanza flywheel-180sx vlsd (been there for a few years)

....i think thats all.Thanks for the coments guys.~Sam

should i be worried that i have the stock FPR?
Modified by koukiKA240 at 4:53 AM 11/17/2004

[SHIEF]

Nice job. I don't understand why you need the JWT ecu though. I thought that with a safc, 50lb injectors, Z32 maf, and a 255 that you don't need a JWT ecu. Could it be your FPR? Maybe someone will chime with experience with this and correct me if I'm wrong.

[koukiKA240]

Im with you. Maybe i got a bad MAF? I dont think its the FPR. My question there was what kind of conditions is it going to create with the stock FPR. is it going to be uber rich or lean at certain times?~Sam

[SHIEF]

Alot of times with bad mafs the engine will just cut out (even kill the engine), like it's not getting enough fuel and sort of nose-dive. They can idle fine, but during acceleration this will happen. Whether it's hard or just normal driving. Is that what it's doing? I'd imagine the stock FPR is around 36-42psi, but I'd have to look that up to be sure. You should still be able to idle even accelerate normal with that psi though.

[koukiKA240]

OK cool. It was tough to get the engine to crank. I had to hold the throttle wide open before it would and once it did i had to stay on it pretty decent just to hold it at 1000rpms. If i let off it would just die. I have a video of it running but i dont think i can host it. It didnt just puff black smoke, the smoke consumed the area and we were outside. i set the safc to -50 accross the board and it still didnt fix the problem.

not to doubt my wiring but ya gatta start somewhere. with what on the safc would you think cause this kind of problem?~Sam

[Charlie240sxt]

Nice s13 maybe he just fine tuneing with the safc

[SHIEF]

I'd try and find a known good maf and put it on, then see what it does for your engine. Maybe someone will let you borrow one to test with. I plan on buying a new Z32 maf, and shelling out the $300. That way I'm not left wondering what's going on.

[klattr1]

looks very clean man. i like it!

[WDRacing]

I hope the JWT fixes it. If you still have issues with it after the ECU install, I'd start by removing the SAFC and looking into cam timing again.

[Jookmasta]

hey i noticed that u didnt have to relocate your battery. how big is ur cold pipe? where did you run it? when i look under the hood, i cant see any room to run the cold pipe besides shooting it up near the oil filter and then routing it back to the TB. did you have to remove something near the fan shroud?

[Altiman94]

very cleean set up and nice car.

[koukiKA240]

Im not sure the diameter of the pipe but the size is consistant all through the setup, so the pics of the hot pipe will give u an idea of the cold pipes size.

You can see in the pic of the vacume lines the 90 degree angle on 2 of the vacume lines coming off off the pipe. Those had to be added. The intake resonator that was originally atatched to the fan shroud was removed and i also had to cut a small block off a corner of the shroud and fasten them together.

On the bottom side I had to sawzall a 3 inchx half inch horizontal rectangle, in order for the up-pipe to meet the U-pipe.

I dont have any pictures of the cut but i will try and find a better pick of the modification to the fan shroud.Hope I helped,~Sam

Thanks again everyone for the posative comments.

[koukiKA240]

The yellow shows the 90 degree brass angle that is JB Welded on and painted black.

The red shows where i cut the fan shroud. ~Sam

[koukiKA240]

Sorry, I know im flooding this thread with pics but im just tryin to help this guy.

I found this pic as well. Shows where it routes w/o all the other junk installed. The red box shows where i cut in the unibody. It didnt leave a gaping hole. At that part 2 peces of metal meet at a seem that comes down, so the unibody supports are still in a box shape but missing the seem.... if that makes any sense.~Sam

[Jookmasta]

that last pic by far has been what ive been searching for for a couple of months now. thanks thanks thanks thanks! ya i see what ur talking about. that red box is where u cut out that rectangle correct?

[koukiKA240]

i'm really glad i could help, thats why i took so many pics. Yes there is where the cut is made. The intercooler kit like i said is Import Auto Performance. If you really want to go the route of non-relocation of battery i guess go with IAp but so much modification had to be done it alsmost wasnt worth it, but i am happy with the end result~Sam

[Jookmasta]

one of my friends is actually makin up the piping so it should be fun trying to replicate those pipes. I definitely couldnt afford IAP's intercooler kit. It looks great but their intercooler kit is about 200 bux shy the cost of my entire turbo kit. They product looks great tho. And ur setup looks sweet! One day i also will join the ranks of a built motor. How much did all the engine work run ya? And what did ya end up using for ur heat shield?

[koukiKA240]

I got all my heat shield junk from http://www.Jegs.com. For engine details IM me on aim at SkierX85.~Sam