My winter build

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
s13RBpowered
Posts: 30
Joined: Sun Jun 23, 2013 6:35 pm
Car: 1989 s13 RB25 powered

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-GT35r/6266/HX40
-ISIS Intake Manifold =$400
-Q45 ThrottleBody =$150
-CX Racing top mount exhaust mani + heatwrap =$450
-3" custom Downpipe = $150
-TIAL 38mm Wastegate + dump pipe =$300
-FMIC KIT =$500
-AEM Water/Methanol Injection Kit =$400
-1000cc injectors =$600
-Walbro 400LPH =$130
-TOMEI Universal Fuel Pressure Regulator Type-S + Gauge =$125
-ARP Head Studs =$140

-Eagle H-Beam Forged Connection Rods =$600
-CP Forged Pistons =$950
-Extended Crank Collar =$250
-ACL Main Bearings/Rod Bearings =$210
-ARP Rod Bolt Kit =$60


-Tomei Metal Headgasket =$250
-Greddy Extreme Timing Belt =$160
-Tomei poncams =$550
-Tomei adjustable Cam Gears Intake/Exhaust =$250
-Rawbrokerage Water pump =$250
-Supertech Valve Springs:Good for 8k Rev =$500
-Bronze Valve Guides =$150
-Head port and polish + install of valvetrain parts =$800
-Spool Twin Cam Cylinder Head Oil Drain Kit =$240
-SPOOL Billet Oil Pump Gears =$525
-Oil Cooler Kit + Relocation Filter =$300
-*Haltech Platnium Pro* =$1900
-Tune =$500

I got a few questions though for you superior knowledge people lol...

-Whats my best option for a transmission that will hold this power and shift at 8k+
I was thinking about an rb26 transmission, but what would it take to swap to that?

-What other bottom end goodies should I think about while im doing a full build

-What piston size are direct replacements for an rb25 86mm/86.5mm/87mm?

-What is the best gasket kit to get when doing a build like this? I know theres the OEM one from RawBrokerage or the Cometic top/bottom end kit?

-And finally what is your input on the best turbo for my 500whp power goals with this build


RRRRB
Posts: 759
Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2011 9:31 am
Car: 98 RB powered S14
Location: WA

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Your turbo choices are good for 500whp easy..

Arp rod bolts come with eagle rods

Rb26 transmission uses the same gears syncrhos as rb25 transmission
The r34 rb25 neo trans has updated synchros
R33 rb26 trans I beleive has updated synchros as well.

I'm using r34 rb25 transmission and shifting at 8500rpm without issue.

If your 25 has stock sized pistons I would use 86mm or 86.5 the bigger you step up in bore the more you take from rebuilding it in the future.

I have no experience with cometic bottom end gaskets I've only used there head gaskets, which have worked great for me.

FYI I had a bone stock rb25 head, cams springs everything stock and revved it to 7800 for 2 years without issue..

s13RBpowered
Posts: 30
Joined: Sun Jun 23, 2013 6:35 pm
Car: 1989 s13 RB25 powered

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Nice about the rod bolts, so my best luck besides building my transmission would be to ust get a r34 neo trans? Will it bolt right up to my series 1?

And for pistons, if you say go up to 86 or 86.5 doesnt that mean I have to get my block bored out slightly?

And anyone else I would love some help with gasket kits cause im not piecing one together as I go, Id like to buy one that covers the whole engine

Also, on a side thought.... Going with an ISIS intake manifold can you use the stock fuel rail and side feed injectors or would I want to go with a top feed rail>?

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meet07
Posts: 1189
Joined: Tue May 08, 2007 5:48 am
Car: 89 180sx rb25det
Location: North Carolina
Contact:

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Like RRRB said I would keep the same bore if you can. I bored my RB to the max, and when it let go and destroyed the cylinder walls it was no turning back. I was forced to get another block.

I don't even know if they make and side feed injectors that big. I would just convert to top feed, simply b/c there are more options as far as injectors, clips, fuel pressure regulators and what not...

s13RBpowered
Posts: 30
Joined: Sun Jun 23, 2013 6:35 pm
Car: 1989 s13 RB25 powered

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well with 86 or 86.5mm pistons can I just hone the cylinder walls and call it a day?

RRRRB
Posts: 759
Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2011 9:31 am
Car: 98 RB powered S14
Location: WA

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s13RBpowered wrote:Nice about the rod bolts, so my best luck besides building my transmission would be to ust get a r34 neo trans? Will it bolt right up to my series 1?
It bolts up yes, however your series 1 uses a push style clutch and the Neo trans is a pull style.. requires a little drilling and tapping for the slave cylinder, the input shaft bearing housing needs to be swapped, and the shifters are different, however you can just swap the part the shifter ball goes into from the series 1 onto the neo trans... thats what i did. the rest is easy.. a google search will show you how to do this.
s13RBpowered wrote:And for pistons, if you say go up to 86 or 86.5 doesnt that mean I have to get my block bored out slightly?
Stick with 86mm if you can, forged pistons require a larger piston to wall clearance, it will need to be honed reguardless
86.5 would be a bore and hone

s13RBpowered wrote:And anyone else I would love some help with gasket kits cause im not piecing one together as I go, Id like to buy one that covers the whole engine
Nissanparts.cc used to sell OEM gasket kits for a resonable price.
s13RBpowered wrote:Also, on a side thought.... Going with an ISIS intake manifold can you use the stock fuel rail and side feed injectors or would I want to go with a top feed rail>?
You can use stock part on the ISIS manifold, but converting to topfeed is what most people do... sidefeed injectors suck and are more expensive

s13RBpowered
Posts: 30
Joined: Sun Jun 23, 2013 6:35 pm
Car: 1989 s13 RB25 powered

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Hey RRRRB mind giving me ur email for questions during my build? This is actually going to be my first full build on anything...I have a bunch of friends in the DSM community but their knowledge on rb's is nonexistent

RRRRB
Posts: 759
Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2011 9:31 am
Car: 98 RB powered S14
Location: WA

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Few more things,

Its good that your trying to do this the right way, however there are a few things you don't necessarly need to make 500whp.

With a good tune and 20psi or so you can do 500whp on 92 pump fairly easy, no need for meth unless you want it for more power on pump later..

A Tomei head gasket isn't worth the money, ive had great luck with Cometic Headgaskets and there much cheaper.. Just make sure that whoever does the machine work decks the block, and that the machine shop can provide a surface finish of 50 RA or better (roughness average).. same goes with the head

You can do 500whp on a stock head but i wont discouarge you on anything hear as most of these things just make the setup more efficient and these mods are hard to do later.

The spool head drain is a waste of money and not to mention WAAAY over priced, cleaning up and port matching the oil return passages is a good idea, and with good crankcase ventilation you'll be in good shape..

I used an N1 oil pump for 2 years revving to 7800-8k rpm on my RB25 with just a collar'd crank you don't need the gears, i'd save that money and buy a nice crankshaft balancer, such as Ross ATI etc

An Oil cooler really isn't needed in a street car unless you plan on road racing or driving the car under a hard load for long periods of time..

A stock RB25 transmission will handle what your planning on and then some, Its just the synchros in the R33 are more fragile and prone to failing compared to the R34 transmissions. But both have proven reliable.

No need to exchange emails, this is a forum and posting this info for you and everyone else to see if what its all about, i frequent the boards often enough anyways... And other members can express there opinions as well..

Check these links out, i'm using Wiseco pistons and eagle rods in my build... been great so far CP is expensive.

http://realstreetperformance.com/store/ ... -2983.html

http://www.nismoparts.com/catalog/?section=935#1646

s13RBpowered
Posts: 30
Joined: Sun Jun 23, 2013 6:35 pm
Car: 1989 s13 RB25 powered

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Okay, I was thinking that about the oil cooler as well, it was just extra goodies. The spool head drain was recommended by rawbrokerage but if im doing a good catch can do I need it? And as for the headgasket I was told metal is the way to go if you do it right by having the block checked and I plan to have my block hot tanked and checked anyways so why not use the metal one? The meth was on there if I was going to use a small turbo like an HX35 or HY35 for the 500whp so that will most likely come off the build list. And my transmission I have no I believe to have a bad throwout bearing but right now it does this weird metal slap when I shift hard and 4th to 5th doesnt like the 7500rpm shifts at all, grinds every time... My biggest thing is I wanna be able to shift perfectly, sliding a turn or roasting them in a straight line I want clean shifts. So paying 1000$ for the r34 neo transmission if that fixes it im down

Another question, how much power can the rb25 crank handle if I do the extended crank collar? What should be done to my crank while im gonna have it out of my block?

If I did everything on this list with some other odds and ends with the parts I chose, Whats the highest whp # you think I could see on 93 pump gas, with and without meth the two different #'s

ALSO...Side note... Anyone wanting to get a group together to contact 6boost for exhaust mani group buy?

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Coolwhip
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Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2004 7:29 am
Car: RB26 Raw Brokerage War Machine
Location: Orlando, FL
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Hit me up, I'll take care of saving you money on your build; [email protected]


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