My vh41det patrol

[thor_patrol]

Hi everyone, i'm new to this forum (have been reading it for a while) and thought i should put up a few pics of my project. Its a 2001 Nissan Patrol which i have put a VH41 into after the old diesel gave up. Just spent the long weekend making the exhaust manifolds.























the engine is running on a base map on an EMS 8860 ecu, Turbo is a Turbonetics GT-K 1000. Manifolds are made from sched 40s pipe. haven't got a wastegate yet so there are no pipes for it.

[slamdbusa]

nice!

[Bart]

Nice turbo extractorsGreat job

[Chrispy300]

Nice! Jealous of the amount of room in your engine bay too

[Carl H]

i might be wrong but i cant find the wastegate flange...

[Chrispy300]

Wastegates are for p****'s! Haha!

[thor_patrol]

Some updates from last weekend. Still need to get a wastegate before i do any plumbing for it. Wiring has also been 90% finished but camera went flat before i could take any photo's. I'm not sure what to do about all the heat that will be in the engine bay, looked into heat wrapping the manifolds but did a little bit of research and found that it was mostly bad other option is jet coating i suppose? anyone know much about either of these options?

[Bart]

Some updates from last weekend. Still need to get a wastegate before i do any plumbing for it. Wiring has also been 90% finished but camera went flat before i could take any photo's. I'm not sure what to do about all the heat that will be in the engine bay, looked into heat wrapping the manifolds but did a little bit of research and found that it was mostly bad other option is jet coating i suppose? anyone know much about either of these options?

Heat wrap is ok, ceramic coating seems to be better, some do both.

[Bart]

Some updates from last weekend. Still need to get a wastegate before i do any plumbing for it. Wiring has also been 90% finished but camera went flat before i could take any photo's. I'm not sure what to do about all the heat that will be in the engine bay, looked into heat wrapping the manifolds but did a little bit of research and found that it was mostly bad other option is jet coating i suppose? anyone know much about either of these options?

Heat wrap is ok, ceramic coating seems to be better, some do both.

Actually i got a question off topic i need to ask you, i cant start my VH41 turbo, (was running sweet for a few months) im using a 8860 also, same set up as yours by the look of it. I need to know about the Baro HP reading as mine says 1170 (when in tuning window on laptop) just wondering if this is correct? Other wise i have a feeling the igniters are gone.

[Guishnu]

Hi mate,
Can you tell me what transmission setup you used on this car? Im very interested in doing something similar to my own and the only thing stopping me is the gearbox setup.

Cheers

Chris

[thor_patrol]

Bart, i will check on my ECU when i go work on the ute again (probably friday night) and look at the baro HP and get back to you on that.

Chris, I'm using the standard auto that comes with the VH41DE but had it built by Wholesale automatics in bayswater with their extreme rebuild with full manual valve body. Darinz uses the same box in his comp truck in NZ. i just bought the housing and output shaft from a patrol (also from wholsale auto's for $250) and it bolts straight to the transfer case. i had to move my engine and gearbox 100mm foreward from the standard position to fit the engine in but it wasnt too much work. getting my tailshafts shortened/lenghtened from knox driveshafts ($250 for both) in the next 2 weeks.

Getting my wastgate this week so hopefully by the end of the weekend the manifolds will be on for good not much to go now, just auto cooler, shifter, tailshafts and bigger fuel pump... then off to be tuned

[darinz]

Some updates from last weekend. Still need to get a wastegate before i do any plumbing for it. Wiring has also been 90% finished but camera went flat before i could take any photo's. I'm not sure what to do about all the heat that will be in the engine bay, looked into heat wrapping the manifolds but did a little bit of research and found that it was mostly bad other option is jet coating i suppose? anyone know much about either of these options?

I ran with heat wrap for a while but it got filled with mud and just caused the manifolds to rust a lot! I then removed it all all just ran with the 2 heat sheilds, 1 for the cam sensor and the other between the wastegate and the elec fans. In that form there was no problem with heat. I did run a bonnet vent but that was all.
With my new project, VH45 turbo into D21 Pathfinder, I will get the whole lot ceramic coated.
I really think with the space in a Patrol engine bay, heat isn't a problem. With my current toy things are a bit different as the motor sits 150mm through the firewall so mor effort is required.

PS I was going to say your turbo placement etc was very similar to what I did, but I see you have seen that!
Let us know what happens on the dyno!!!!!!!!

[darinz]

Hi mate,
Can you tell me what transmission setup you used on this car? Im very interested in doing something similar to my own and the only thing stopping me is the gearbox setup.

Cheers

Chris

It is really simple, both Patrol and Q45 etc use the RE4RO3A auto so if you have the front of a VH auto and the back of a patrol auto, it will all just bolt together. BUT use the VH internals as it has more frictions etc so is a better spec than Patrol. I was running this spec auto for several years behind my TD42t (21psi, IC etc etc so more torque than imaginable) in competitions with no problem. When i went to the turboed VH45, I used the same auto with the relevanT Vh shafts, bell housing etc. Good for 280rwkw in comps says to me it should survive most things you will put at it!

PS the trans is one of the easiest things with this conversion!

[Guishnu]

Thanks a lot for your input mate,
I currently have a ZD30 in there which im hoping also uses a RE4R03A auto box? Darinz, how are you controlling the gearbox? I must admit, my knowledge on Auto Boxes is next to zero (they usually get scrapped in place of a manual so my need for auto knowledge none existant)

I know you chaps have talked about manual valve bodies (which i don't really understand) but my requirements are for the truck to behave just like any other regular automatic (albeit, with a 4.5ltr v8 behind it) I know the autobox has a series of ECU's and controlls etc. Is me removing the ZD30 and fitting the VH45 going to cause this all to go screwwy?

I have found this:
http://www.automatictransmission.com.au ... wsId=19197

Can anybody shine any light on the process of making this work?

Just so you know, this is an everyday driver - used for towing and bombing around in. My wife drives it a lot too - so it can't be too extreme!

Cheers

Chris

[tmorgan4]

I've kind of wanted this ever since I saw it. http://www.ess-racing.com/ Makes me think about putting the factory Q45 automatic back in!

[thor_patrol]

Bart, i checked the motorsport ECU program and it still had my last screen from the weekend up. the baro HP reading was 100 but this only has to do with barometric compensation. the table for barometric compensation has 0 in all fields. Does your engine run at all and did it just stop overnight? i initially wired my firing order wrong ans it ran okay-ish on 6 cylinders and when i was fault finding i had it running and starting on 4 cylinders so i would think your coilpacks wouldn't all fail at the same time and it would still run if 1 or 2 coilpacks failed.

With the full manual valve body you do away with the TCU all together and control everything manually including lock up converter. if the zd30 has the same auto it should just bolt strait to a VH and work fine because all the TCU wiring will be existing

[Guishnu]

With the full manual valve body you do away with the TCU all together and control everything manually including lock up converter. if the zd30 has the same auto it should just bolt strait to a VH and work fine because all the TCU wiring will be existing

But you don't get a "D" position do you? It's just PNR123?

[Bart]

Bart, i checked the motorsport ECU program and it still had my last screen from the weekend up. the baro HP reading was 100 but this only has to do with barometric compensation. the table for barometric compensation has 0 in all fields. Does your engine run at all and did it just stop overnight? i initially wired my firing order wrong ans it ran okay-ish on 6 cylinders and when i was fault finding i had it running and starting on 4 cylinders so i would think your coilpacks wouldn't all fail at the same time and it would still run if 1 or 2 coilpacks failed.

With the full manual valve body you do away with the TCU all together and control everything manually including lock up converter. if the zd30 has the same auto it should just bolt strait to a VH and work fine because all the TCU wiring will be existing

Thanks mate that makes sense, i think i will check my CAS and igniters.

Keep up the great work, cant wait to see this beast run

[thor_patrol]

You have PRN321 and 4th gear is electronic so im mounting a switch on my shifter for 4th and a switch somewhere near the shifter for converter lock-up.

Bart, let me know ho you go with your fault finding! Did you ever get your car onto a dyno? i have a copy of the base VH map for the EMS8860 if you need it for some reason too.

Darinz, How is your project coming along? what coilovers are you using? KING's i hope 18" coilovers create alot of travel! what setup are you running? How come you need such long coilovers? Are you using the patrol diffs with triangulated 4 link in the rear? and 4link with panard in the front? Sounds like an awesome project !

[Guishnu]

You have PRN321 and 4th gear is electronic so im mounting a switch on my shifter for 4th and a switch somewhere near the shifter for converter lock-up.

Cool,
I have been chatting to a guy at automatic transmissions in AUS who says he can provide me with one of there high performance valve bodies, plus electronic lockup and temp gauge for about £800ish delivered to my door on exchange. Which seems pretty reasonable. I get to keep D too so "her indoors" will be happy. The electronic lockup will be massivly handy when towing.


Im pretty "go" with this idea now. It seems a heck of a lot less faffing than an RB25 as i have to do all the manual stuff + change the boxes too... All i need to do now is finish off this S13 im doing and find a decent president/q45 to break up.

[darinz]

I'm running an 'A' arm in the rear due to the length of the arms vs the width of the chassis. I think I ended up with about 30% so 4 link was out. Rear lower TA are 1300mm long and will have the coil over mounted directly to them. On the computer I'm getting 29" of travel but will have to limit it to about 24" due to driveshaft and no real need for more.
The front is an extended GQ arm and factory panhard. The axle seems to cycle quite nicely. I have the panhard flat at ride height and have 8" up travel and 10" down. The diff in theory hits the chassis at full bump.
Basically I'm fitting GQ axles, driveshafts, auto transfer into a D21 Navara (cutdown Pathfinder). It should end up weighing around 1600kgs with aroud 300rwkw. Front travel 18"ish rear 24". Also it has a full spaceframe/rollcage that has the body (single cab) solid mounted in 10 places. ie the body is now a stressed part of the structure. Also the rollcage has 10 footings but is also completely welded to the A and B pillars and also the firewall. All told there is about 60 meters of tube in the rollcage.
The need for greater travle is due to completely removing any movement from the chassis so unless the diffs move further we will get reduced articulation. Also as it is being built to go offroad racing as well as winch challenges i need to be about to go really fast and get serious air. I'ce already bannaed a Patrol chassis so this is why this is going so overboard.
At present there are FOA shocks and bumpstops going in as it pretty hard to argue with the prices and it is the only real expense I've got left. I plan to have this built and racing for under $40k. That is only achievable as I do almost everything myself.

[Chrispy300]

Cool,
I have been chatting to a guy at automatic transmissions in AUS who says he can provide me with one of there high performance valve bodies, plus electronic lockup and temp gauge for about £800ish delivered to my door on exchange. Which seems pretty reasonable. I get to keep D too so "her indoors" will be happy. The electronic lockup will be massivly handy when towing.

800quid!! For a valvebody, lockup and a gauge!? Who are you dealing with?

Give MV Automatics a call in Adelaide, last I heard one of their valve bodies was about AUD$400.

[thor_patrol]

Darinz, what are the regulations for your off road racing in NZ? part of the reason i put the VH41 in the patrol is because im planning to build a class 1 buggy in the next few years and wanted a VH as the engine, only problem is in AUS we can only have up to 3.5l with forced induction or 6l N/A. One of my best mates has a rock crawler/ winch challenge buggy with an A frame rear and also a landrover 110 dual cab ute with an A frame and 4link front with panard and an ls2 (he's kind enough to let me use his shed and they both run 14" king coilovers in the front and 16" in the rear and work awesome! i wasn't around when they were being built and haven't done much work on them and from just looking at them their setup could be improved quite a bit. Have you read the coilover bible on pirate4x4, if not get on it strait away!I agree you cant beat FOA for price and from what ive seen they are very good quality too, im looking at running them in this patrol when i get the motor all sorted. What pipe bender are you using? we have a JD squared manual one and it works awesome I think im more excited about seeing your car going now than my own!

[Guishnu]

Cool,
I have been chatting to a guy at automatic transmissions in AUS who says he can provide me with one of there high performance valve bodies, plus electronic lockup and temp gauge for about £800ish delivered to my door on exchange. Which seems pretty reasonable. I get to keep D too so "her indoors" will be happy. The electronic lockup will be massivly handy when towing.

800quid!! For a valvebody, lockup and a gauge!? Who are you dealing with?

Give MV Automatics a call in Adelaide, last I heard one of their valve bodies was about AUD$400.

These Chaps
http://www.automatictransmission.com.au

[darinz]

Darinz, what are the regulations for your off road racing in NZ? part of the reason i put the VH41 in the patrol is because im planning to build a class 1 buggy in the next few years and wanted a VH as the engine, only problem is in AUS we can only have up to 3.5l with forced induction or 6l N/A. One of my best mates has a rock crawler/ winch challenge buggy with an A frame rear and also a landrover 110 dual cab ute with an A frame and 4link front with panard and an ls2 (he's kind enough to let me use his shed and they both run 14" king coilovers in the front and 16" in the rear and work awesome! i wasn't around when they were being built and haven't done much work on them and from just looking at them their setup could be improved quite a bit. Have you read the coilover bible on pirate4x4, if not get on it strait away!I agree you cant beat FOA for price and from what ive seen they are very good quality too, im looking at running them in this patrol when i get the motor all sorted. What pipe bender are you using? we have a JD squared manual one and it works awesome I think im more excited about seeing your car going now than my own!

Is there anyone building something like this that hasn't read the c/o bible and the 4 link tech article on Petersons????
We have no engine restrictions in either class 6 and class 8. Class 6 is road legal production based ie Winch Truck and class 8 is anything goes pretty much. There's are a few guys running VH here already. One has a supercharged VH45 in a spaceframe Titan another is running a VH41 stroked bored etc to 5.0 that is getting supercharged and that is in a roadlegal D22 Navara.
The Titan was dynoed at 480rwhp at 14psi but he races it at less than that.
The guy that bought my old truck has revived it with a VH45 and it will make it's debut at the Rotorua winch challenge in July.
Seems that quite a few guys are using VH's on either WC or offroad racing.

And I also have a JD2 bender. I'll get a photo of the mount bracket one day. You see I bolt it to the front end loader on my tractor! I figured I don't want it moving and it was the perfect height.

[darinz]

800quid!! For a valvebody, lockup and a gauge!? Who are you dealing with?

Give MV Automatics a call in Adelaide, last I heard one of their valve bodies was about AUD$400.

These Chaps
http://www.automatictransmission.com.au

The VB being talked about here has had a lot of mods and testing done. The one I have has proven reliable with 280rwkw but it cost AUD$1,350 exchange! We aren't talking reconditioned standard VB.